Auto Meter gauge install, need advice

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lukebz

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I have a new set of gauges i am planning on installing into the dash of my 40 in the next week or so. i am in need of some advice for this job.
i am hoping for some suggestions on how i should complete this install. such as, removal of existing gauges and knobs and holes, filling in the old holes and then cutting new ones for gauge placement.
i really want this to be a quality job with no short cuts taken. i planned on removal, welding some sheet metal behind the dash to cover the old holes and filling the space, then cutting into the dash and new metal to seat the new gauges...i don't and have NEVER done body work so i need all the advice you guys can give please!
i also don't want these gauges coming loose in the coming years from a crappy install and abuse on the trails. is there a GOOD way to install these particular gauges very well??
thanks for all your input!!!
below is how the dash looks now and the selection of gauges i have chosen to be installed.
IMG_0016 50.webp
IMG_0015 50.webp
 
Don't cut holes. Selection of gauges for an FJ40 requires one to consider the intended location, available space and implications of doing so as the primary factors. There are companies that offer a replacement gauge panel if you want to go that route. I think BTB is one or one could fab their own.

I chose to unadulterate the stock cluster and mount my gauges elsewhere. See my ROTW link in sig line for suggestions.

Good Trail Candy link below and just $64....ideas, ideas, ideas
 
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Is this a trail rig or a DD ? Reason is, I don't see a speedo in that group or fuel gauge. Buy an after market cluster from one of the vendors on this board. They are less than a hundred bux in most cases and bolt right in to the stock location. my .02
 
I totally agree. You can't go back once it is cut either even though you may not want to now. My previous owner butchered up the center dash so for me it is very difficult to correct this since not too many companies make parts until other classic rides have.

You may want to try Trail Candy LLC-Put a little Candy in your rig for a instrument panel cluster instead. The only problem is that you might need smaller gauges for it. You chose 2 5/8" gauges which are bigger than most clusters.

I dig your choice of gauges I want those as well, BTW. If I can't find a dash panel, I'm going to use those.
 
I agree, do not cut your dash, I made this one out of 1/8" aluminum. I sprayed with it with layout fluid and made a template from my glove box door, traced the template on to the aluminum plate and cut it out. You can buy these pre-made, ready to bolt in.
snotz104 (Medium).webp
 
Take the old stuff out. Take a piece of craft paper and outline the entire area showing where the original holes were. Now look behind the dash a mark on the paper available depths you can go. This will determine which gauge will go where. With that in had then move to all the pull cables and switches and lights. Find out how far you can move them to the right and left where they will be long enough to work or where if they will bind if they put in a closer location. Once you have all that figured out make a new pattern with all this in knowledge. If it's possible to just cut new holes where existing holes are and where it will look good. If it's not going to look good. Just cut the whole area out. Just make sure you use a template and cut in a straight line. Will make welding it back a lot easier. Cut the new piece to fit the opening and while it's out cut your new holes. Heck of a lot easier to do it out where you can clean things up then when it's welded back in. Plus it will give you a chance to straighten all the new wire harnesses and vents behind it easily. Use these to hold the panel straight. Northern Industrial Butt Weld Panel Clamps — 4-Pc. Set | Misc. Clamps | Northern Tool + Equipment
Tack it in and make short 1 inch welds staggered around the whole thing letting it cool evenly. Use a flapper wheel and grind the welds smooth. A skim coat of bondo will help in evening anything out.


Another good trick is to go put your gauges on the copy machine and make copies. Then cut them out and place them on the dash where you get a good idea of where you want them.

Personally I'd rather keep the old gauge cluster and butcher the area to the right. I think that looks a lot better than stuffing a bunch of gauges in an odd shaped area using Radio Shack indicators. Just looks silly to me.
 
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example

my plan was to leave the stock FJ40 cluster, speedo, gas and what have you and place the diagnostic stuff to the right..still need advice in installing these gauges.

similar to this setup, minus the diamond plate!
DeepSouthCruisers-1.webp
 
Don't hack your junk!! Trail candy has so many options....do you really need the double gauge cluster?
 
40's rock said:
Don't hack your junk!! Trail candy has so many options....do you really need the double gauge cluster?
Click to expand...

Agreed. Alot of folks who hack into the dashboard regret it later. Its a big job to try to return it to original once those big holes are cut. I also believe you will reduce the value of your truck by cutting into the dash. Unless its purely a trail rig, most buyers prefer relatively unmolested rigs, especially when it comes to the dashboard.
 
I drilled holes into my dash, 2 of them, one either side of my cluster for 2 1/8 diameter tach and on the other side an air gauge. I put a plate behind and riveted it on to try and integrate it into the cluster. looks not bad but if I was to do it again I would leave the dash alone. This is because I love the look of the dash and this is just me; theres lots of places to go: Radio hole (i guess you can't go that route), to the right of your heater I've seen and also the ash tray. If I were you, I'd just take out you cluster now. Whats the point in have having two of every gauge? The gauges you chose, although are very nice, aren't vintage looking so it doesn't matter how you mount those gauges they are always going to look aftermarket.

If I was to do it again I would go this route, especially if you are mounting gauges already in the cluster you plan to keep: https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/272585-homemade-stock-like-gauge-pod.html this is assuming you have a radio hole.
 
welding

welding such a large area may warp the metal which is okay if you can work it back into shape but it seems there are a lot of options for cover panels
 
LOOK

everybody look at the pic i have included (twice)..the PO already has cut into this dash, not much, but he did and it's terrible for one lousy gauge. i am plan on cleaning up his work and installing mine.
for those of you who say "dual cluster" im not seeing a tranny temp, tach, water temp, or volt meter in the stock one...i am only adding what i need AND keeping the great stock gauge look in place. i understand the feeling of cutting into my dash, but i need the gauges i need and think that it looks good to the right of the orig ones...
IMG_0015 50.webp
 
OOPs!

Sarge used to get on my case for attention to detail, or something like that ---I wasnt really listening!:lol:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/229286-pics-your-custom-dash-w-gauges.html

https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/272585-homemade-stock-like-gauge-pod.html

heres some pics

I have a big ol gauge hole too

I kinda like the idea of going over the whole thing with a plate ala Lukebz post then reinstalling everything

for a hole that size though you may get away with tack welding a little at a time without warping
 
exactly

bsmith123 said:
Sarge used to get on my case for attention to detail, or something like that ---I wasnt really listening!:lol:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/229286-pics-your-custom-dash-w-gauges.html

https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/272585-homemade-stock-like-gauge-pod.html

heres some pics

I have a big ol gauge hole too

I kinda like the idea of going over the whole thing with a plate ala Lukebz post then reinstalling everything

for a hole that size though you may get away with tack welding a little at a time without warping
Click to expand...

im not planning on a welding rampage to get these gauges in place...just a clean cut hole, with tight fit and maybe a small tack or two..no serious beads needed! im not gonna be warping anyting...my stuff is "unmolested" for now.
 
plate vs flush

You said "minus the diamond plate" Does that mean you are not interested in any kind of plate at all? just looking to fill in the holes and rearrange it all to fit nicely is that the idea?

I kinda liked the d plate except for the screws but there are all different kinds to use

I kinda like this for the fasteners ---typical for cockpit fasteners

with a plate and a template you just mark where you want them on the mock up cut holes in the card then put it in place and transfer the hole marks then cut the dash like already mentioned watch for clearance issues

Personally I think that rather than weld in a backing plate then cut it out and try to weld in a new face piece I would just cut it all out and weld in a new piece with the gauge holes already cut and mount them

But I do think that is the hard way, I know you don't want shortcuts but the plate or panel look if done right does not seem a bad option to me


The knobs have a small allen screw in them and screw off, the little backing rings just screw off too--there is a special spanner for them but pliers wrapped in tape will do the job if you are careful

The main gauge cluster comes out with the front screws removed---tilt out on the top and lift

mark all the wires and take a picture of the back for the reinstall

Have a look at the gauge pod link---what could be really cool is if you could pull off a similar job by hinging a section of the lower cover!


I hope that is more helpful:grinpimp:
CNI_5000_panel.webp
 
gauge plate and signal lights

I would suggest not cutting you dash up either, 1/8 almn works great. Always had a problem seeing my turn signal lights so fixed that at the same time. I used the same two mounting holes as the original cluster. For the bolts I used some internal wrenching SS bolts. The O.D. of the bolt head was turned to give it a better look. Taking that same bolt I bored out the I.D. and potted a green LED light in it. I added a third bolt/light for high beam.
dash1w.webp
 
finally

fieldsken1 said:
heres what i did works great. i welded up the holes redrilled and insereted toggles to run everything else
Click to expand...

someone with some similar style...and i mean STYLE!
nicely done!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:clap:
 
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