Builds Aussie 1978 FJ40 Buildup (3 Viewers)

[Twisty]

Wanting what I don't have? Sorry mate...I have had Chevy 350, 1F, 2F, 3F, and 13B-T. I have had in my possession, 3HZ's, a 12H-T and three 13B-T's. The 13B-T I am currently running kicks ass.
To each his own, but you can't beat the economy of the 13B-T and it's power is every bit as good as a strong 2F with the wastegate shimmed a bit. The 350 I had always had heat issues, not horrible, but you had to watch it. Sure, it sounded great and everyone loved it, but I wouldn't do it again.

Didn't mean it in that way mate.....was just refering to there is obvisouly more of a abundance of desiel toyota motors in Australia then in Americia which is why you guys always drool when you see a Turbo Desiel 40, 60, 75, 80, 100 etc...To most of us its just another dirty stinky desiel motor.

Kinda like how a lot of guys over there want our Hilux while we all wish we got your Tacoma, or even better a Tundra or New FJ.

 

[boof]

Diesels suck they dont have the wheelspeed that a petty has, so in tight terrain where quick wheelspeed is needed they fail big time. When worked they are expensive and the longevity goes by the wayside, they are also more expensive to purchase modify and maintain as opposed to a petrol.

Diesels work for touring and towing not much else in my opinion.

 

[Nick the Carpenter]

Wanting what I don't have? Sorry mate...I have had Chevy 350, 1F, 2F, 3F, and 13B-T. I have had in my possession, 3HZ's, a 12H-T and three 13B-T's. The 13B-T I am currently running kicks ass.
To each his own, but you can't beat the economy of the 13B-T and it's power is every bit as good as a strong 2F with the wastegate shimmed a bit. The 350 I had always had heat issues, not horrible, but you had to watch it. Sure, it sounded great and everyone loved it, but I wouldn't do it again.

HI THERE JUST HAD A MATE DO A 13BT, BOY TOO MUCH CASH $4500 FOR NEW MOTOR INC NEW HEAD $1800 FOR NEW INJECTOR PUMP $1500 FOR TURBO ON AND ON AND ON.I THINK YOU CAN DO REALLY WELL WITH OTHER MOTORS FOR THAT CASH.

 

[Twisty]

Have sold all the ford efi crossflow gear already. Missus knows all now, and was surprisingly ok with it all (am sure she is wanting something expensive now but hasn't said it). All going well the middy will be delivered next weekend

Went up Double Island in the 40 on the weekend, first time I've had it on the beach. Went well, even thought I only had locked 2wd after the front diff farked up on the motorway up to Noosa.

Somehow the pinion nut came undone, leave only about 5mm of splines engaged. Am so lucky the driveshaft didn't fall out while doing 100km/hr. Only new something was wrong as Cracka was following me in his 100 series and was getting a oily mist all over his windscreen. The thread on the pinion was bugged so couldn't bolt it all back up, so we left the driveshaft off, put the flange back on, and zip tied it back to the axle housing to stop sand etc. getting in.

Some pics from up the point....surf was awesome for the longboards.

 

[Twisty]

Finalised the flare and rear bumper design this week. Was going to have the rear flares curve in as you see on most rigs. But am now going to bring the rear bar out to the full width of the tyres (with a 60 series rear housing fitted) and finish the flares square to the bumper.

Original design.

New design. Flares and bumper are wider then whats shown in these pics. Total width of flares will be 140mm.

 

[Twisty]

So files have beeen sent down to Dave (Mentally_Unsound) at Dixon Race Engineering. All going well I'll pick it all up from him next weekend.

Heres what the final model looked like.

The part of the bumper extended into the wheel arches will be on the same angle as the flares, but will do that with everything fitted to the truck so they line up exactly.

The chassis mounts are done so no modifications to the existing rear bumper/cross member are needed. Simply remove the existing tail lights, drill holes to suit, and bolt it up. Hope it all fits as planned.

 

[Jock]

Looks great! Looking forward to seeing the end result.

 

[Jock]

Had a thought - what about integrating a pair of reversing lights in that bumper, you know the type you blind the b**tards tailgating you with?

 

[mshrf5]

Thanks,

 

[Twisty]

Had a thought - what about integrating a pair of reversing lights in that bumper, you know the type you blind the b**tards tailgating you with?

I mucked around with trying to fit some decent reversing lights into the bumper, but couldn't get it to look right. I plan to mount some on the swing out tyre carrier but.

 

[Twisty]

Fixed the front diff on the weekend with a help from a mate. Originally went down as he thought he had a die which would suit, but the pinions thread was too fine. He did have a thread file there with the correct pitch but, and after 30 mins or so it was as good as new. Dropped what oil was left out, and had a bit over a teaspoon of fine metal shavings, which got me a little worried. But put some new oil and went for a drive with the hubs locked, and there was no noises or vibes (up to 90km/hr), so hopefully all is sweet internally.

Progress pics of the rear bar.

All the bits

The bumper mocked up (upside down)

Stoked how the chassis mounts turned out. Remove the std. tailights, and these slide straight in. No modifications to the rear cross member needed. They dont work real well with having the recovery point as part of it, as a 40's chassis is angled out. So they will get changed a little.

Am worried the bumper is going to look wierd being as wide as the tyres. Have set it up to match the width of the tread on the 33s but on a 60 series housing (1.5" wider per side then whats shown in the pic). See how it goes I guess.

Borrowed a mates mig and have started tacking it together. Am planning on trying to weld the whole thing up myself.......Is a little daunting when the only other welding I've done is on scrap in Brooksys shed after way too many brews.

 

[Twisty]

All tacked up now....so starting to practise doing on how to do the final welds on scrap. Had a mate come over last night, and he reckons the Mig isn't real happy....is a CIGWELD 210, but even on flat out it isn't getting good penetration on the 6mm scrap....does ok on the smaller stuff. Not sure if it needs a service or what the go is.

Got another mate that does a lot of welding coming over tonight, so see what he says.

Am really happy with the shape and width now too.

One of my better welds.....6mm base with 3mm standing up.....

Any feedback would be great.

 

[rutbeer]

Looks to me like you need more heat and less wire feed. Looks like the weld is just on the surface and not melting the plate on either side. You should actually be able to see the weld puddle "burn" away part of the plate as you are swirling it. If you don't see that happen, chances are you are not getting any penetration.
What size wire are you using and what gas?

 

[kiwidog]

Twisty

Weld looks cold.
Try turning the heat up and the wire speed down a bit
Unless the weld needs to continuous because you are trying to seal something up try stitch welding with 1 to 1.25 inch runs and 2 inch spaces. Faster and less money and less chance of distortion.

You wanted comments.

Hope this helps, keep up the good work.

Thanks jb

 

[Cammo30]

If the AMPS are on full, try pre heating with an oxy, dont go over board, just get some extra heat in the steel, It will help with getting better penatration.

Orsum work BTW,
Cammo

 

[Twisty]

Cheers for the info fellas....all welds have been done with the heat up as high as possible....All different wire speeds have been tried to....try to slow it down and it seems to splatter a heap and kinda pulsate as your welding.

Rutbeer - Wire size is 0.9mm and here is a pic of the gas bottle.

Luke came up last night and had a crack at it, and there is defintley something wrong with the welder. You can turn the top knob between 4, 3, & 2, with very little change to how it welds. He thinks the resistor in that knob might be gone, or the welder is only putting out half power to begin with cause of some other thing (cant remember what he called it).

This is the welder.

This is the settings used on most of the welds pictured, and the ones below.

Some more practice welds on material the same thickness as my rear bar.

Decieded this will do for the bumper bit, so I'll go ahead and do all that myself. (Will weld from both inside and outside). But for the chassis mounts and tow hitch stuff I'll get someone with a working welder to do them.

 

[rutbeer]

That last pic looks much better.
You said earlier that the wire "pushes" on the lower speeds. To me, that's a good indication that the heat is too low. Maybe there is something wrong with it.

On another note, are you beveling the plate edges before you weld? That will make a stronger weld, especially on the heavy plate, though it won't fix your welder machine issues.

 

[Twisty]

That last pic looks much better.
You said earlier that the wire "pushes" on the lower speeds. To me, that's a good indication that the heat is too low. Maybe there is something wrong with it.

Nah, didn't say pushes, it kinda pulsates.....as in the wire will come down close to the job, then will burn up quickly to the hand piece, then repeat, if that makes sense.

On another note, are you beveling the plate edges before you weld? That will make a stronger weld, especially on the heavy plate, though it won't fix your welder machine issues.

Haven't bevelled any of it yet, but yes, plan to do that on the outside edges of the bumper before welding it.

 

[Twisty]

Well Crackas brother Jackass dropped off the Doner V8 Middy today. Was probably in slightly better condition then I pictured, but does have some major rust spots.

Isn't running at the moment, so had to tow it up the driveway with the 40.

Needs a new windscreen surround.

Sill

 

[Twisty]

Some of the good bits.....304 (5.0l) EFI Holden V8.

4speed auto with overdrive

Paratas Bucket Seats - Need recovering but.