This problem has been getting worse lately. Today, my drivers side rear drum seized (or froze) on me twice. Once I had only driven about 2 miles and parked for about 30 minutes. I had applied the park brake. When I released the park brake, I could not move. Since it was about minus 20, I wasn't about to start pulling things apart there. Put it in four-wheel drive and had to drag my ass sideways down the road for a quarter mile (snow covered) before it released. The second time, I had not even used the park brake and it did the same. It must be hilarious to watch. When it stalled out in an intersection, it finally released the second time. At first I thought diff. But it's a front transplant with hardly any use. I did have an axel seal leak on that side, which I repaired with new bearings and seals. But the shoes are still impregnated with gear oil. I know, I should have changed them by now…would this be enough to cause this crazyness? I kinda liked the reaction of the guys in the civic that I nearly sideswiped in the parking lot at Walmart…
Ass-sideways driving! (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter duckling
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Josie'sLandCruiser
Stop calling it a "FJ."
Hi All:
I dunno, but perhaps the return springs (?) on the rear drum brakes are either weak, or gunked-up with frozen crap and are not releasing the brake shoes, causing the brake to freeze-up once parked?
Maybe try coasting to a stop (no brakes) then turn off the rig (leave in gear)?
Good luck!
Alan
I dunno, but perhaps the return springs (?) on the rear drum brakes are either weak, or gunked-up with frozen crap and are not releasing the brake shoes, causing the brake to freeze-up once parked?
Maybe try coasting to a stop (no brakes) then turn off the rig (leave in gear)?
Good luck!
Alan
Does this happen in both forward and reverse directions? What I mean is, will it break free more easily in one of those directions? Is there any noise you can hear whilst its acting up?
I'm betting everything I have on it being your gear oil. Gear oil does funny things to friction surfaces like brake linings and clutches. An output shaft seal leak that leaks onto a clutch will cause the clutch to chatter and grab. It sounds similar to what you're experiencing. When it let go for you it may have heated up enough due to friction to allow slippage and then cooled when you parked, re-forging that gooey bond.
When my handbrake locks on,I yank on the cable that goes across the rear axle from one side to another and that releases it.
was just going to say the same thing rosco
the cable is just a little siezed up
the cable is just a little siezed up
I'd carry a propane torch and a tarp to lay on while using torch to thaw brake drums out. I never use parking brakes in winter due to potential freezing.
Through the years I've had the lever (one or both) at the backing plate seize. When released the cable from side to side should not have any tension and the levers on both backing plates should be down on the stops. A few blasts with a good penetrating oil and several tugs on the cable should free the levers.
And for right now, when it's really cold out, don't use the parking brake.
Get under there with a hammer, and with the brake lever down, beat the parking brake levers back to the bumpstop on both sides. That should free them up till you can get in there and fix things.
Mine was doing the same last year. I ended up replacing the levers and springs with new parts, instead of using the gunked up old ones. Not that expensive.
Get under there with a hammer, and with the brake lever down, beat the parking brake levers back to the bumpstop on both sides. That should free them up till you can get in there and fix things.
Mine was doing the same last year. I ended up replacing the levers and springs with new parts, instead of using the gunked up old ones. Not that expensive.
- Thread starter
- #10
fixed I think
Well, pulled it apart today in a heated garage. Cleaned the gummed up drum with thinner and installed new shoes. Seems to work fine. Cable is free…I've always kept it coated in rust check. I'm amazed at how that gear oil would stick in the cold weather enough to hold the truck back. Oh well, it was fun while it lasted! Thanks for all the replies…my fault for not changing the shoes right away when I fixed the seal.
Well, pulled it apart today in a heated garage. Cleaned the gummed up drum with thinner and installed new shoes. Seems to work fine. Cable is free…I've always kept it coated in rust check. I'm amazed at how that gear oil would stick in the cold weather enough to hold the truck back. Oh well, it was fun while it lasted! Thanks for all the replies…my fault for not changing the shoes right away when I fixed the seal.
Cruisin'
Out in the shop, building something cool!
Good to see the problem is fixed, but I wanted to chime in with another thought. If you get any water in a drum brake (ie. snow in the drum that melts when you brake, or things are thawed and you go through a puddle) then you park with the park brake on and the temperature is below freezing, the shoes will freeze to the drum. Often they will release if you beat on it, but the best solution is not to use the park brake in below freezing temperatures. Just my 2c.
- Thread starter
- #13
Cruisin, I try not to use it in winter. It's not the time I want to sliding under the thing outside. Mac, I would guess a half-dozen. Most just stare and try and figure out what it is. Another year or two and I'll be in the market for a rust-free, either from OZ or Japan. Rosco, why haven't you yet started scouting vehicles for the NA market?…I'm sure there are many that would rather pay you than an unknown exporter…I think you're time on the board gives you a lot more credibility. That's 4 cents.
