Builds Vinyl Seats 100 Series Build (1 Viewer)

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Great! I really have been considering getting my wife in a GX, they're just unbelievable inexpensive. She drives close to 200 miles a week though, so her 25mpg tiguan has been nice.

I bought my 100 for the wife to drive. She went from a 2010 Tiguan to a 2011 Rubicon with OME to the 100. The Tiguan is a fantastic car, but it is a car. She works on call and often has to deal with 1-2’ tall plow berms in the winter to get out of our drive. With only 30 mins to do a 25 minute drive to work, there is no time for shoveling. Lockers and 33s get the job done!

AW- I’d still look at getting that rust fixed. Mine has it in the same spot. If it doesn’t get repaired, it will eventually start allowing water to leak in behind the glass. I’m going to repair mine when the windshield comes out to be replaced shortly. You can probably do the repair yourself. Just get a rattle can of touch up paint and go for it. I’m just doing it when insurance is paying for new glass as you want to do it when the glass is out.
 
AW- I’d still look at getting that rust fixed. Mine has it in the same spot. If it doesn’t get repaired, it will eventually start allowing water to leak in behind the glass. I’m going to repair mine when the windshield comes out to be replaced shortly. You can probably do the repair yourself. Just get a rattle can of touch up paint and go for it. I’m just doing it when insurance is paying for new glass as you want to do it when the glass is out.
I've never "repaired" rust on a vehicle before. Will simply applying some rattle can paint over the affected areas keep the rust from spreading or getting worse?
 
I've never "repaired" rust on a vehicle before. Will simply applying some rattle can paint over the affected areas keep the rust from spreading or getting worse?
The answer is no. Im dealing with some rust on my passenger rocker panel on my Z71. It sucks. In your case, more than likely, the window would need to come out to get to rust you cant see. Nothing you spray will stop rust. Its like cancer, you have to get rid of it completely, either by grinding it off or cutting it out and patching with new steel. Youre in a tight spot with that windshield.
 
swill is correct. You will need to probably have the windshield taken out to properly fix it. Rust never sleeps is more than a Neil Young album, it’s the reality. The fact is, regardless of how dry your area is, the rust has got a foothold, and you need to deal with it as soon as you can. Getting it down to bare metal is what you need to do in order to keep it from getting away from you.
 
Frustrating. Okay. Thanks for the tips. I'll start looking into my options.

Any idea how quickly rust like this spreads in a dry climate?
 
Finally took care of my heater tees. They crumbled when taken out. I was planning on OEM but my mechanic (and other mud members) talked me into steel ones.
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Happy I finally got it taken care of! Now I don't have to feel bad every time I see heater tees come up here!
 
I ordered a custom windshield decal and applied it a few weeks ago. While I like how it came out, I do see more of it than I anticipated while driving. Visibility is one of the most important things to me in a vehicle so it'll likely come off soon. Oh well. Fun, cheap little project!

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I've been going through my "cheap, small, hopefully make a difference" project list lately. These are all the small things I want to try before I move to the bigger more expensive items.

Made a hood blackout with Plastidip. It was a pretty simple process and came out okay. My biggest mistake was that the center came out rougher in texture than the edges. I'm sure this is because I was focused on keeping the edges wet in order to get a clean line. I'm confident I could have rectified the issue with a couple more even coats. Took 2 cans to do.
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Was fun to have for a bit but came off shortly after. It's one of those projects that gave me newfound respect for the stock vehicle look. That's a great part of temporary visual changes like this.
 
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Frustrating. Okay. Thanks for the tips. I'll start looking into my options.

Any idea how quickly rust like this spreads in a dry climate?

Well, it won’t necessarily spread fast, but it WILL get worse where it is already. It’s not like you have to do anything this weekend, but the sooner you get on it, the better. I had my glass out a year ago and did a “repair” that was a wire wheel to clean-ish metal, then a rust neutralizer product, then etch primer and paint. Rust is back again in a little over a year, and it looks to have spread a bit, so make sure you do your reasearch and do it right the first time!
 
Well, it won’t necessarily spread fast, but it WILL get worse where it is already. It’s not like you have to do anything this weekend, but the sooner you get on it, the better. I had my glass out a year ago and did a “repair” that was a wire wheel to clean-ish metal, then a rust neutralizer product, then etch primer and paint. Rust is back again in a little over a year, and it looks to have spread a bit, so make sure you do your reasearch and do it right the first time!
Bummer that it came back already after you spent that time and energy. What's your plan going forward?
 
I have to replace the glass again, so I’m going to get that removed, then take it back to my shop and get serious with making sure it’s all bare metal. Last time I did it at the glass shop, and really couldn’t take my time as I only had a few hours. I’m going to paint the entire thing as well this spring, so I don’t mind going a bit further into it.

Bodywork is not technically difficult, you just need to follow the steps. If you can mix 5 minute epoxy, and use a sander, then you have the basic skills to do body work. It’s just different products. With your truck being white, it will be easy to touch up your paint with a factory color rattle can. Mine is a metallic color, so touchup is harder. I’m going to solve that by painting the whole thing white, which is the color my wife wanted, but the best 100 I found was the champagne color.
 
Mine is much worse than yours, but if left alone, yours will get worse...

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We'll, now I have to figure out what's next on the list.

Need:
-New front inner axle boots; passenger side slightly torn, throwing a little grease (planning for January 2019)
-New steering rack, alignment (would love to push to January 2020)

Want:
-YotaMD titanium key fob
-285/75/16 tires; I purchased my rig with new cheap 265/70/16 Futura Scramblers just put on; I'm thinking BFG KO2s; I don't neeeeeeed them, but I really would prefer something with more sidewall protection for camping this year (I also love the BFG look)
-Bull bar (thinking Bio)
-Sliders (also Bio)
-Roof rack (Bio or Gamiviti)
-Snorkel (99% for looks, 1% function)


What's the next logical thing?
 
Finally grabbed my YotaMD Titanium Integrated Remote Key Fob Shell from @suprarx7nut.
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Everything is really high quality. Love cranking that engine (even more than before).
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In case anyone runs into a similar situation, my existing key shell was a fairly new Denso unit. The plastic that housed the T end of the key was so strong, I had to use my Dremel tool to grind away the plastic to free the key. Once done, the install into the YotaMD fob shell was quick and easy.
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