Are Volk wheels an absolute upgrade (1 Viewer)

[highfructose]

Trying to figure out whether the $4,000 or so it’ll cost for a set of 5 is worth it.

200’s come with 285’s and between 31.5 and 32.5’s stock.

stock heritage edition wheels and tires come in at around 69.6 lbs weight total. (31.5”)

my stock lx570 wheels and tires come in around 79 lbs. (31.5”)

“supported equipment” rock warrior 17’s with 285 70 r17’s with k02’s weigh around 82 pounds. (32.5”)

(I think) volk 18’s (19.4 lbs) and 285 65 r18 at3’s (32.5”) weigh 74.4 lbs…which would put the height/width on par with the supported equipment rock warrior package…and the unsprung weight in between the stock land cruiser in its lightest wheel variant…and a stock lx570 (and markedly lower than the rock warrior package).

would the 0 offset from the volks cause issues running the with this tire package? Be it rubbing, degradation of hub parts, improper scrub radius, etc? Would the 0 offset actually be a plus in some ways?

photos are from google but probably belong to a member here

 

[tbisaacs]

Only you can answer the “worth it” question. I certainly wouldn’t spend $4k on wheels but you and I may use our trucks differently.

Suggest you search around a bit more. There are lots of posts on scrub radius and wheel offset.

In general, the sky is the limit with tire fitment. If you want biggest bolt on without a lot of work, stick with something like a 275/70/18 and remove the front mudlap.

If you want more, you can have with some work. 34s are easy, 35s with some trimming and BMC, and 37s with a body lift.

 

[bloc]

Wasn’t there some question as to whether the volks could meet the load requirements of our stock wheel/tire combo? Could be wrong on this..

 

[highfructose]

Only you can answer the “worth it” question. I certainly wouldn’t spend $4k on wheels but you and I may use our trucks differently.

Suggest you search around a bit more. There are lots of posts on scrub radius and wheel offset.

In general, the sky is the limit with tire fitment. If you want biggest bolt on without a lot of work, stick with something like a 275/70/18 and remove the front mudlap.

If you want more, you can have with some work. 34s are easy, 35s with some trimming and BMC, and 37s with a body lift.

My 200 seems like mostly a roadtripper with a trail ride or two per year.

Would you happen to know if there are downsides to running a 285 32.5” tire with a zero offset for our rigs? Upsides to a zero offset?

 

[tbisaacs]

My 200 seems like mostly a roadtripper with a trail ride or two per year.

Would you happen to know if there are downsides to running a 285 32.5” tire with a zero offset for our rigs? Upsides to a zero offset?

You’ll have to deal with massaging your fender liner to get rid of rubbing at that offset.

 

[TeCKis300]

Being big into wheels and modding in the import days with sports sedans, I have a thing for OG and JDM wheels. I've had many sets and brands of wheels, including higher end forged 3-piece Volk wheel, using them for track days. For track, there's nothing like being on a set of uber lightweight wheel for performance. Perhaps at a trade to strength and durability however as I've bent a few in my days. What they provide in style, street cred, and performance, they do give up something. Not just Volk, but the is true for other high end wheels like OZ Superleggeras that I've run hard.

Zero offset is going to be the big issue no matter what size tire you'll run. It's just way outside the parameters of the suspension. There's at least one individual who liked the initial turn-in feel, but I can pretty much guarantee there's going to be trades. And not good ones to other dynamic qualities including lower ultimate cornering traction, pull on the steering affecting drivability and fatigue on long trips, durability to bearings and the steering rack, sensitivity to alignment, and more. Physical fitment is also an issue. It's going to cause interference issues where there would be none. Fender lip, splash guards, and possibly body mount.

I mentioned OZ earlier as they have a pretty good fitment cast wheel for our platforms. Style is always subjective but I put them pretty high in the OG wheel manufacturers with Volk, and it's not one of the new age dime a dozen low quality style focused wheels even from bigger names. I believe they have a few styles in 18x8.5 +30.

 

[highfructose]

Being big into wheels and modding in the import days with sports sedans, I have a thing for OG and JDM wheels. I've had many sets and brands of wheels, including higher end forged 3-piece Volk wheel, using them for track days. For track, there's nothing like being on a set of uber lightweight wheel for performance. Perhaps at a trade to strength and durability however as I've bent a few in my days. What they provide in style, street cred, and performance, they do give up something. Not just Volk, but the is true for other high end wheels like OZ Superleggeras that I've run hard.

Zero offset is going to be the big issue no matter what size tire you'll run. It's just way outside the parameters of the suspension. There's at least one individual who liked the initial turn-in feel, but I can pretty much guarantee there's going to be trades. And not good ones to other dynamic qualities including lower ultimate cornering traction, pull on the steering affecting drivability and fatigue on long trips, durability to bearings and the steering rack, sensitivity to alignment, and more. Physical fitment is also an issue. It's going to cause interference issues where there would be none. Fender lip, splash guards, and possibly body mount.

I mentioned OZ earlier as they have a pretty good fitment cast wheel for our platforms. Style is always subjective but I put them pretty high in the OG wheel manufacturers with Volk, and it's not one of the new age dime a dozen low quality style focused wheels even from bigger names. I believe they have a few styles in 18x8.5 +30.

Thanks.

seems if the volk had a more appropriate offset, they’d work better for my uses.

 

[TomEf]

• Pros
  • They're lighter
  • They look sick
• Cons
  • They're expensive
  • You may not get much of an mpg/performance increase (anyone with experience?)
  • If you do any moderate wheeling, you may beat the hell out of them. I know I'd feel bad damaging $4k wheels the way I've damaged my $40 Tundra takeoffs.

 

[grinchy]

I think the weights are wrong in first post. RWs are 24lb each (17s). The forged 18s are more, 28 maybe? The cast 18s vary but can get down to 29. The stock 20s are 32 or something. It’s been a few years since I looked at this. So 5x rws is 120, and 5x 20s is 160. 5x 18s is in between at 145.
I don’t see what tire weight has to do with it, , same diameter tires will fit on same diameter wheels, only variable is the rims.
If you like the rims and have the cash, get ‘em and feel good about your ride.
For me expensive rims are just a liability. The last thing I need to worry about with my crappy driving skills is keeps the rims cosmetic.

 

[dntlflosstycoon]

I've run zero-offset Methods with 285/75r17 Toyo AT3s and OEM front coil spacers for about 5000 miles. After an alignment, the road manners are excellent, almost indistinguishable from stock. Before the alignment and spacers it was a little squirrelly (long-drive fatigue for sure). Some strategic shaping and of the wheel well plastics was required, but on and off road now I don't get any rubbing with the stock suspension. I would say that zero offset would not be the deal killer if you're willing to slice and dice a little.

 

[Mdog97]

Prior Mud post with some wheel weights:

OEM/TRD Wheel Options for 200-series Cruisers

Not on a vehicle unfortunately. Thanks Eric - very helpful.

forum.ih8mud.com

Like @TeCKis300 my wheel experience is mostly track and street performance. I don't rock crawl or anything like that, but reducing unsprung weight is always a good thing, all else being equal, and forged > flow formed > cast in terms of "strength" and "durability". I know of Volk, although have never run them personally...reputation (in race & trackday circles) was/is excellent, although that use case is not a direct carryover to the LC world. But $800 per wheel (presumably including center caps, but maybe not TPMS) seems pretty steep, particularly for wheels with the "wrong" offset. They do look sweet, though....

I can't tell / recall if you (OP @highfructose ) already have a HE, but if you don't, then consider the TRD Pro forged wheels from the Tundra / Sequoia, made by BBS Japan. New wheels can be found for $500-$550 without too much trouble, and they come with the "correct" OEM offset and weigh "about" 28 pounds, according to my bathroom scale. You can get the HE center caps, TPMS of your choice, and maybe even get them professionally painted bronze (if you prefer) and still be well inside of the Volk price. (If you do have an HE, then you probably already know that these are your existing OEM wheels painted bronze, and they're pretty darned good.)

In my case, I wanted to stay with 18s, and I like the idea that the TRDs have a strong following and multiple possible vehicle applications, which makes the market for them more "liquid", all else being equal. I imagine the Volks will suffer from the typical exotic wheel discount if you ever tried to unload them used (read: you'll get slaughtered, regardless of new price, regardless of condition).

 

[Recon Aircrew]

I run +1 offset (Fuel Beast 18x9 +1mm) with BFG K02 305/65's. Definitely required some trimming (some metal too) but no drivability issues. I like the way it looks, however with aggressive offroading I think I would drive the tires into the fenders. That was a definite novice oversight. Next time around, I would go with less offset (like 25-35 mm).

 

[NLE]

Do TE37X come in our fitment and lug pattern? I love how those look on the FJs and 4Runners

 

[Bomar]

Do TE37X come in our fitment and lug pattern? I love how those look on the FJs and 4Runners

Bolt pattern yes...

Fitment is a matter of opinion.... I say no but you could make them work.

 

[highfructose]

Prior Mud post with some wheel weights:

OEM/TRD Wheel Options for 200-series Cruisers

Not on a vehicle unfortunately. Thanks Eric - very helpful.

forum.ih8mud.com

Like @TeCKis300 my wheel experience is mostly track and street performance. I don't rock crawl or anything like that, but reducing unsprung weight is always a good thing, all else being equal, and forged > flow formed > cast in terms of "strength" and "durability". I know of Volk, although have never run them personally...reputation (in race & trackday circles) was/is excellent, although that use case is not a direct carryover to the LC world. But $800 per wheel (presumably including center caps, but maybe not TPMS) seems pretty steep, particularly for wheels with the "wrong" offset. They do look sweet, though....

I can't tell / recall if you (OP @highfructose ) already have a HE, but if you don't, then consider the TRD Pro forged wheels from the Tundra / Sequoia, made by BBS Japan. New wheels can be found for $500-$550 without too much trouble, and they come with the "correct" OEM offset and weigh "about" 28 pounds, according to my bathroom scale. You can get the HE center caps, TPMS of your choice, and maybe even get them professionally painted bronze (if you prefer) and still be well inside of the Volk price. (If you do have an HE, then you probably already know that these are your existing OEM wheels painted bronze, and they're pretty darned good.)

In my case, I wanted to stay with 18s, and I like the idea that the TRDs have a strong following and multiple possible vehicle applications, which makes the market for them more "liquid", all else being equal. I imagine the Volks will suffer from the typical exotic wheel discount if you ever tried to unload them used (read: you'll get slaughtered, regardless of new price, regardless of condition).

I don’t have an HE. I’ve got an lx with very heavy oem 20’s…and very heavy k02 275 60 r20’s…
Are the oem trd pro and heritage wheels set up with offsets for the stock 31ish inch tall tire? Or does the scrub radius with those wheels stay within a good place with 32.5”+ tires?

 

[Mdog97]

I don’t have an HE. I’ve got an lx with very heavy oem 20’s…and very heavy k02 275 60 r20’s…
Are the oem trd pro and heritage wheels set up with offsets for the stock 31ish inch tall tire? Or does the scrub radius with those wheels stay within a good place with 32.5”+ tires?

There are probably others who know better and who will come along in a moment (not at my desk or I’d look it up myself), but I’m pretty sure you can run up to about 33s with the stock offset or there about without mods or a lift

/EDIT TO ADD:

I haven't read much on here about scrub radius differences, but in your other thread on that topic, it looks like post #4 already has some good info on how to adjust scrub radius as you increase tire size. The HE/TRD Pro BBS 5x150 wheels (in their various finishes/logo iterations) have the same +60 offset, while the 2016+ LCs come with OEM cast wheels at +56, so negligible difference. I don't know offhand the offset of your LX 20s, but maybe it's also +56mm? In my case I have a set of 1" Bora spacers on order, so I'll be running OEM sized (highway focused) tires at +34.6mm net offset (60 - 25.4 for the spacers), versus +56 now, pushing out the tire by a little more than 0.8"

 

[NLE]

Bolt pattern yes...

Fitment is a matter of opinion.... I say no but you could make them work.

I have yet to see photos of the TE37X on our 200 platform. Do you have details on the wheel specs or pic?

 

[kreiten]

I run zero offset on 2 of my rigs and wheel them both hard, lots of advantages in my opinion. Tires stick out past the fenders and allow for way better use of sidewall and minimize damage to your fenders and getting hung up. Wider track width for more stability offroad. More clearance at your UCA, frame, KDSS bar etc... I've run offsets from 60 to 35 to 20 to zero, all had benefits and drawbacks IMO... I've run 33x12.50's on 35mm offset and they they rubbed, I've run 285/70 R18's on 20mm offset and they rubbed, I now run zero offset with 35x12.50's and if I didn't add the Timbren bumpstops they would def rub. Lots of advantages to different offsets and also depends on what you are going to do with the rig, your expectations etc.. Anyone who tells you there is some magic offset and you can run big tires without sorting out fender liners, bumpstops etc is not pushing their rig very hard, just saying I beat the hell out of my rigs and this formula just works!

 

[prwillard2]

I don’t have an HE. I’ve got an lx with very heavy oem 20’s…and very heavy k02 275 60 r20’s…
Are the oem trd pro and heritage wheels set up with offsets for the stock 31ish inch tall tire? Or does the scrub radius with those wheels stay within a good place with 32.5”+ tires?

I have an HE and run 275/70/18 Toyo AT3s on1" Bora Spacers. Required some massaging of the fender liner and trimming of the front mud flap

 

[Itsky]

T.......

“supported equipment” rock warrior 17’s with 285 70 r17’s with k02’s weigh around 82 pounds. (32.5”)

....

Rock Warriors and load range C BFGs AT KO2s 285/70/17 , are about 76 LBS per corner

TRD 17x8 Rock Warrior Alloy +50mm offset 24lbs