Are there two sizes of striker plates for side doors? (1 Viewer)

[Farmall Dave]

I was going to try to glue a piece of brass in where the door latch wears a notch in the strikers. While I had it apart I held the striker up to the door stop. When I do that, there's a 3/16" gap between the latch and the striker.
So now I think I recall Marv selling me a set of strikers, but pointing out that they would not fit correctly because there were two sizes, and my truck (1967), used the size that was unobtanium. I'm thinking that I will have to buy the expensive set of stops to get strikers and door stops that fit correctly to support the door and prevent it from rattling.
Is there any other way to fix this?
Thanks
Dave

 

[DSRTRDR]

neither of them is installed the correct way

 

[Farmall Dave]

neither of them is installed the correct way

Thanks
I took the striker plate off of the door post so that I could see how far I would have to go in order to get the striker to engage the taper of the door stop. The camera angle is not good. Even if the striker plate didn't have any wear, there would still be 3/16" gap between the latch and the striker plate.
I have adjusted the door stops inward as far as they can go and the striker plates outward. And even with new door seals the rattling is really loud.
I think I will try making the brass striker surfaces and bond with epoxy. However, I will build up the surface about 3/16ths and see how that works. I can't lose anything but time and the cost of the epoxy. If it doesn't work I will save up for the $OR stuff.

 

[Dizzy]

If you can afford the space to place the striker a bit toward the middle of the door, then placing an 1/8" brass angle between the striker and the tub, with clearance holes for the factory-located screw holes, might get some material for the latch to hold on to. Maybe it is an aluminum angle?

 

[Farmall Dave]

If you can afford the space to place the striker a bit toward the middle of the door, then placing an 1/8" brass angle between the striker and the tub, with clearance holes for the factory-located screw holes, might get some material for the latch to hold on to. Maybe it is an aluminum angle?

Thanks Dizzy
I tried just stuffing door striker plate between the striker and the body. Worked great! So next I will bend and trim to make it better. This will allow me to bring the striker out farther so as not to over compress the door gasket.

 

[Vandal FJ]

I like the home door idea! My driver door doesn’t shut and seal worth a crap. Might have to try that, if a JB Weld patch doesn’t solve it!

 

[69LC]

How are your hinge bushings?

 

[69LC]

If your hinges are worn out I and @SMG have some solutions as do others.

 

[shelfboy1]

i checked a coffee can full of those and there are 2 different styles dont know what is what

 

[Farmall Dave]

Thanks 69LC. I don't think that this year had bushings. I tried to get some of the plastic bushings to fit, but they didn't. I may ream the hinges for bushings some day when the doors begin to have more up and down play.
For now I found some chrome plated zinc drawer pulls. I modified them slightly and now the doors don't rattle. I adjusted the striker plate as far outboard as possible to reduce the compression of the door seals while also removing the play in the system. I picked the zinc drawer handles because it may reduce wear on the latch bolts.

 

[Farmall Dave]

This is a better shot of how it works.