Are all NV4500s the same?

[theRash]

I saw a craiglists ad for a GM NV4500 for 450.00 taken from on 6.5 diesel. When we all look for 5spd swaps......
Are all NV4500s the same? I've seen ads where dodges have them as well as GM products
How would I know which ones would work with an adapter to my 2F?
I already asked the owner for the serial number - and I'm waiting on that and the price quote on the transfer case that went with it.
I haven't taken any plunge for the switch. it mostly just investigation and research for the future.

 

[radioridge]

check with advance adaptors. the dodge is a hd nv 4500 (heavy duty) dont know if the bell housing is different (bolt pattern) but i would guess that it is . should be able to find the info you need on the A.A web site. i believe there are adaptors for both.

 

[missipboy]

i know of a couple differences. there are two different first gear ratios and two different input shafts-chevy and dodge. the chevy is smaller(i guess it's not the heavy duty) and is what you want to use with a chevy motor. i had one behind a 2f and it used the dodge input shaft. i then put in a chevy v8 and had to switch to the chevy input shaft.

 

[lehiguy]

There are quite a few differences in NV4500s through the years. The first is that the early Chevys had a deeper reductions in first through third gears. There are different flange patterns, input shafts and output shafts. The Dogde HD version is nothing more than a different input shaft which will more than likely have to be changed depending on your conversion. It's an extremly stout gear box, excellent ratios, I question whether or not a 2F can actually pull the 27% overdrive, but for a V8 it is a fabulous tranny and I wish I had put mine in sooner than I did. Check out this link, High Impact - NV4500 5spd it has most of the particulars on ratios, index diameters, input/output shafts, tail housing length, etc. I bought a few parts from Six States distributors in Salt Lake City and I was pleased with the availability and the price of the parts.

 

[theRash]

Should I be leary about an NV4500 for 450.00? Seems low. not rebuilt. not including the transfer case. the seller claims it shifted great and no synchro issues.

I guess what I'm asking is what is the most common thing that breaks on them that would/could cause them to sell for so little? I think 450 is a good price for what I've seen around the marketplace. Is this an expected price?

 

[lehiguy]

Should I be leary about an NV4500 for 450.00? Seems low. not rebuilt. not including the transfer case. the seller claims it shifted great and no synchro issues.

I guess what I'm asking is what is the most common thing that breaks on them that would/could cause them to sell for so little? I think 450 is a good price for what I've seen around the marketplace. Is this an expected price?

$450 is a great price. I paid more than that for mine and I had to replace the mainshaft as the splines were worn on the rear. Syncros on these are fiber, not brass and New Venture specifies only one type of lube for it, but others say any light-weight, GL-5 synthetic is ok. (I bought some Amsoil from a friend made specificaly for the NV4500.) The type of tailhousing you have (Chevy vs. Dodge) will determne what transfer case pattern you will have to use. The Chevy NV4500 will have a 32-spline output, the Dodge ones are 29 spline for the deisel and V-10, 27 spline for the V-8. I run an early Dodge NP241 with a passenger side front drop for the low ratio and minimal parasitic power loss on my Chevy NV4500. I did this by swapping the input gear on the T-case (simple) and drilling the tailhousing of the NV4500 with the appropriate pattern for my T-case. I welded some spots and used epoxy on others to fill in the original holes and make new ones. The whole reason for that was that the early Dodge NP241 comes with a fixed yoke output and a mechanical speedo drive. You can buy slip yoke eliminator kits for a Chey NP241 but they hang sort of low and the kit is spendy. I tried a clocking ring prior to drilling the tailhousing but they don't work so well, I don't recomend them.

 

[lcwizard]

The most common problem with the nv4500 was the nut on the main shaft coming loose. If it did there was very little to be done about it. This caused a fifth gear failure. This was only a problem with those that were used as a severe towing vehicle and behind the diesel motors where "lugging"
the motor was common. In an Fj40 it would probably last forever

Should I be leary about an NV4500 for 450.00? Seems low. not rebuilt. not including the transfer case. the seller claims it shifted great and no synchro issues.

I guess what I'm asking is what is the most common thing that breaks on them that would/could cause them to sell for so little? I think 450 is a good price for what I've seen around the marketplace. Is this an expected price?

 

[DBS311]

I paid way more than $450 for my used NV4500, so provided everything is working well, that's a good deal. Anyone know the length of the NV4500 compared to the A440F?

 

[lehiguy]

The most common problem with the nv4500 was the nut on the main shaft coming loose. If it did there was very little to be done about it. This caused a fifth gear failure. This was only a problem with those that were used as a severe towing vehicle and behind the diesel motors where "lugging"
the motor was common. In an Fj40 it would probably last forever

I worked at a Dodge store for several years so I am familiar with the fith-gear retaining nut issue. When that happened, there was no damage done, the fith gear would just back off the shaft and could be repaired by removing the tail housing and putting it back together. There have been revisions made to the trans to correct this, but it was unique to the redneck with 800 pounds of torque and a trailer that weighed 5 tons or more and even then it wasn't a universal problem.

 

[dieselcruiserhead]

There are quite a few differences, I also recommend just reading the NV4500 catalog from advance adapters..

 

[zuluzeugma]

I found an NV4500 with a 241, shifter, bellhousing, release fork on CL for $300. Good deals do exist, you just have to be smart. The tranny/t-case were both in great shape. Came out of a wrecked 96 3/4 ton Chevy.

 

[dieselcruiserhead]

Killer. It will be a LH drop (so not useable) with 32 spline output. You will want the AA bellhousing even with the V8 otherwise it uses an internal slave that when it blows you have to unbolt the trans. Works great but is a bitch to replace. You'll also have to figure out the volume and see if the LC slave is up to it, otherwise you have to get custom. The AA bellhousing solves all of that which is why they make it (and it uses a 60 series LC slave).

 

[lehiguy]

Killer. It will be a LH drop (so not useable) with 32 spline output. You will want the AA bellhousing even with the V8 otherwise it uses an internal slave that when it blows you have to unbolt the trans. Works great but is a ***** to replace. You'll also have to figure out the volume and see if the LC slave is up to it, otherwise you have to get custom. The AA bellhousing solves all of that which is why they make it (and it uses a 60 series LC slave).

Yeah, the bellhousing situation is a little dicey. The bell housings on the early Chevys with NV4500s had the slave cylinder mounted very low on the passenger side... right where your front driveline will smack it when you stuff the wheels. I cut off the extended part of the bellhousing, welded it shut with some aluminum plate, made a steel backing plate for an old style ball studd which I put on the driver's side (had to cut a new hole in the bell housing) fabricated a bracket for the stock slave, re-routed the hydraulic line and !viola! instant cheap bell housing that uses the older, sturdier Chevy hardware and doesn't kiss the driveline. Or you can buy one from AA which most sane people would do.

 

[zuluzeugma]

Killer. It will be a LH drop (so not useable) with 32 spline output. You will want the AA bellhousing even with the V8 otherwise it uses an internal slave that when it blows you have to unbolt the trans. Works great but is a bitch to replace. You'll also have to figure out the volume and see if the LC slave is up to it, otherwise you have to get custom. The AA bellhousing solves all of that which is why they make it (and it uses a 60 series LC slave).

Note: This is for my buddy' 6BT swap into his 98 Durango. Hes doing: 6BT/NV4500/Klune V/203/205 Doubler/14bolt/D60.

Hes been wheeling it like it is in the picture about two years and decided it was time to get lower (gearing) and a more beefed suspension.

 

[motoloco]

I am assuming you are talking about my ad for the NV4500 on denver CL. You need to clarify, I NEVER drove the truck, It was a NON-running 6.5 (big suprise) I said it shifted through the gears ok when the truck was not running. I have no idea what shape the NV is in, I bought it for the shifter and bellhousing. You did not ask me for serial numbers, do you need them? I am selling it so cheap because I did not drive the truck, therefore I cant gurantee the tranny. It showed 68K on the million mile speedo. The shift tower will be a little further back than an H42 4 speed.

 

[Elbert]

old post but may get some feedback.

What is the preferred combination of bellhousing, NV4500 and adapter to mate with FJ60 Split case transfter case from 1986 FJ60? Engine is a 1999 GM 5.7 Vortec.

I want to avoid any crazy modification...if fact looking for a bolt together solution. Realize that it would require differet length drivershafts over stock and a new crossmember.

Mainly wanting to understand the best way to go with bellhousing/trans/TC Adapter. Would be nice to be able to run Stock GM exhaust manifolds with this conbination, but unsure if thats workable.. Please comment if you have knowlege of this.

As I recall I think I have the 168 tooth flywheel. Can you get reasonable clutch pedal travel with this combinaation?

 

[lehiguy]

old post but may get some feedback.

What is the preferred combination of bellhousing, NV4500 and adapter to mate with FJ60 Split case transfter case from 1986 FJ60? Engine is a 1999 GM 5.7 Vortec.

I want to avoid any crazy modification...if fact looking for a bolt together solution. Realize that it would require differet length drivershafts over stock and a new crossmember.

Mainly wanting to understand the best way to go with bellhousing/trans/TC Adapter. Would be nice to be able to run Stock GM exhaust manifolds with this conbination, but unsure if thats workable.. Please comment if you have knowlege of this.

As I recall I think I have the 168 tooth flywheel. Can you get reasonable clutch pedal travel with this combinaation?

There is no stock bell housing that is going to work, they all have either the internal slave (PITA and AA swears they never work when swapped to a different vehicle) or they have the external release hanging too low on the wrong side (see my previous post about that.) You will either have to red-neck fab one like I did or buy the AA bell housing with the T-case adapter as well, or swap T-cases altogether and get a different rear axle with a centered diff. I did the latter and I like how it worked out. A 14-bolt semi floater is stronger than the Cruiser axle, you can get E-lockers for them, (love it!!!) they are dirt cheap and can be had with six-lug hubs so you can keep your wheels, although the studs are larger and require the holes in your wheels to be enlarged slightly. I think all Vortec blocks, since the starter is in a fixed location, will only use one flywheel. I got mine from the machinist that did the rest of the work. I use an old-style Chevy pressure plate as they have a shorter throw.

 

[Elbert]

Wondering why SBC NV4500 bellhousing that would have been factory OEM for 1999 GM pickup with 5.7 would not work...seems like the interal slave might be just the fix for external clearnce issues? Might have to change to GM clutch master cylinder.

When I was building mine...I recall getting asked questions about the flywheel and my choice was stock...myabe the question spanned different year model 5.7's..anyway I use the 168 tooth version which is OEM stock or at least I believe it is.

well if need the bellhousing and tc adapter from AA that's ok. I'm wanting to get away from current bellhousing adapter I have and go with a GM stock type (clutch,bellhousing, trans) and then if I have to use adapter at TC that' ok. Or at least that's what I'm considering. I would like to get better clutch pedal travel than I have right now with the centerforce clutch setup and mark's adapter.

Why does AA say the GM bellhousing with internal slave will not work?

 

[ntsqd]

snip....
Why does AA say the GM bellhousing with internal slave will not work?

Just for GP I'm curious about this too. My only guess, and it is that, a guess, is that the OE plumbing is a PITA to work with or around.

I recently helped a friend rebuild the NV4500 in his Early Bronco. He loves that trans and I was impressed with it. He did a bunch of research on rebuilding these transmissions and it came down to there is only one source worth considering: quad4x4.com He sprung for their rebuild manual, it IS worth what they charge for it, and the special lubricant though some use an Amsoil product. We'd have been lost at times without it, and there are a couple small gotchas (the details of which I don't recall). I think he bought one special tool and we improvised the rest using a bearing splitter and an almost too small puller. Shipped I think the bill was about $800 for bearings, synchros, lube (not cheep!), tool, and rebuild manual.
The difference was reportedly impressive. Before the rebuild the trans would get so hot that he could not touch the shifter lever much below the knob. After-wards it is cool to the touch clear to the boot.

 

[lehiguy]

I absolutely love the box. The ratios,t he way it shifts, its quietness and smoothness, its just an exceptional piece of hardware that can take massive abuse and not be harmed.