ARB vs. Stauns tire deflators????

[spressomon]

Sorta on subject: Anyone using the Monster Mini deflators?

 

[e9999]

And you tear the trail up much more.

yes, that is true and not a good thing. I wasn't serious but that's a good point to make anyway.

 

[rusty_tlc]

I do .. but you will never have that issue with the ARB deflator ..

Edit: how those teraflex deflators work .?

They just let air out until you take them off. Actually easier than pulling the cores and less likely to leave you with a cross threaded valve core.

BTW the little tool that taps valve stem threads is worth it's weight in gold if you cross thread one. http://www.bellautomotive.com/4-way-Valve-Tool-and-Cores-p/22-5-77142-m.htm

I carry one of of those as well as a few extra valve stems and cores.

I still need one of these
http://www.bellautomotive.com/Valve-Installation-Tool-p/22-5-08847-m.htm

 

[rusty_tlc]

Just picked up a pair of terraflex deflators at Summit, they list then for $14.24 but priced matched the 4x4groupbuy.com price of $10.95.

At that price I can carry an extra set to loan out.

 

[e9999]

snip

BTW the little tool that taps valve stem threads is worth it's weight in gold if you cross thread one. 4-way Valve Tool and Cores

I carry one of of those as well as a few extra valve stems and cores.

snip

ah, I was just looking at mine earlier and thinking that it is not much of a tap. So it's actually working fine for that?

 

[Jetboy]

I'm in the pull the valve core group. Never used or deflator tool. Seems really time consuming. Never had a valve core issue. If I'm in an hurry, I might also pull valve cores to air up. My compressor (York) can outrun the ability of air to flow through the std valve stem with core. It cycles on and off while refilling, but if I pull the stem I can go continuous. I go a bit over street pressure by feel, start the next tire, then let air out till I'm where I want.

Seems to be the fastest option other than drilling a second valve stem hole. If i were running really big rubber, I'd probably go that route. Then you could fill in both stems, or you could fill in one stem while monitoring pressure in the other.

 

[rusty_tlc]

ah, I was just looking at mine earlier and thinking that it is not much of a tap. So it's actually working fine for that?

I've only used it once, it worked well enough to get the tire to a shop and have the stem replaced.

 

[rusty_tlc]

I'm in the pull the valve core group. Never used or deflator tool. Seems really time consuming. .....

How so? Screw on the deflators, BS with your friends, check the pressure, un-screw the deflators. It's a lot easier than fiddling around with valve cores, exactly like screwing the dust cap on and off. Look at the Terraflex style deflators and you'll understand.


If you are talking about the ARB gizmo I agree that looks like a PITA.

 

[Jetboy]

How so? Screw on the deflators, BS with your friends, check the pressure, un-screw the deflators. It's a lot easier than fiddling around with valve cores, exactly like screwing the dust cap on and off. Look at the Terraflex style deflators and you'll understand.


If you are talking about the ARB gizmo I agree that looks like a PITA.

I'm not sure how much time these units take. To air 38's down to say 4psi takes about 20-30 seconds with the valve stem removed. It's got to take twice as long at least with the deflators.

Removing a valve core takes no longer than removing a valve cap. It seems like a solution in search of a problem.

 

[Mace]

Like woody I have one of the ancient Currie (ARB) deflators, some Chinese Stauns that I have not used yet (8 bucks, I could not say no). and a set of these Poly Performance JEEP/TRUCK & BUGGY :: Wheels & Tires :: Wheel & Tire Accessories :: Rimrock RADS - Rapid Air Down Valve Stems - 4X4 Off-Road Parts, JK Synergy Suspension Systems, Fox Racing Shox, Beard, CNC Brakes, Johnny Joints®, Currie Enterprises

Of all of them. I REALLY like the RAD valves. they air down faster than pulling a valve core and a stupid simple. They have been on my 40 for like 10 years now without an issue.

The Currie/ARB is very nice and handy imho. Super easy to tweak the psi for what you want. The Staunese valves are in the 60 and will probably be adjusted to 15 psi and left alone.

 

[Mace]

Cool link that covers just about all of them
Tire Deflator Comparison: Everything you wanted to know about airing down and more!!

 

[Elbert]

takes about 15min or so to air down with the ARB/CURRIE...not a big deal.

 

[Tools R Us]

... Actually easier than pulling the cores and less likely to leave you with a cross threaded valve core. ...

If you are so worried about cross threading, why do you screw anything onto the stems? The cores pretty much self align when inserted into the stem, really have to be ham-fisted to mess it up, so is easier to cross thread something screwed on to the outside of the stem.

The only core issues that I have seen on the trail were from failure to run caps, mud, debris jammed in them. Core problems are not much of an issue, simply remove it, air the tire, replace the cap and drive until the stem can be replaced.

This is my air down kit, rides in the console, simple, compact, handy. My cores have been out ~40 times this year alone, never an issue. I'm usually one of the first ones done airing and often have the largest tires, so ether BSing waiting for others to finish playing with their toys or helping others finish the job.

 

[Tools R Us]

ah, I was just looking at mine earlier and thinking that it is not much of a tap. So it's actually working fine for that?

They are not a tap, not intended to cut/remove metal, more of a thread reforming, chaser tool.

 

[rusty_tlc]

I'm not sure how much time these units take. To air 38's down to say 4psi takes about 20-30 seconds with the valve stem removed. It's got to take twice as long at least with the deflators.

How big a hurry are you in on the trail? I go out to enjoy myself and the company of my friends, the whole air down / air up ritual is part of that. Plus I use the time to do a final walk around of my truck.

Removing a valve core takes no longer than removing a valve cap. It seems like a solution in search of a problem.

Seems more like a preference difference to me.

If you are so worried about cross threading, why do you screw anything onto the stems? .....

I can cross thread the dust cover and the tire will still hold air. If I screw up the schrader valve it could be a problem.

Again, it sounds like a preference thing to me.

 

[Jetboy]

How big a hurry are you in on the trail? I go out to enjoy myself and the company of my friends, the whole air down / air up ritual is part of that. Plus I use the time to do a final walk around of my truck.

Depends on how cold it is. Most of the more challenging offroading I get to do is in deep snow. If it's 0*, I'm not too keen on wanting to spend 30 minutes waiting to air down. A lot of the time in the winter going back country skiing I'm the only vehicle so it's just dead time waiting to get going.

Seems more like a preference difference to me.

I think that's fair to say. I really like the idea of the Klune-v/ RAD valve design. Should be super simple to build one yourself if you have basic machining tools.

 

[Tools R Us]

... I can cross thread the dust cover and the tire will still hold air. If I screw up the schrader valve it could be a problem.

I prefer not to mess up ether and in my experience both are very rare events. A messed up core is an easy fix, air up, screw on the cap and drive until the stem can be replaced.

Again, it sounds like a preference thing to me.

It is largely personal preference, what you have become comfortable with deal. For me, it was larger tires that pushed the change. The core is very restrictive, so larger tires equal longer air down time. Once I started pulling the cores, it was like, why did I ever mess with the toys, this is simple, fast, to easy?

 

[e9999]

snip
The only core issues that I have seen on the trail were from failure to run caps, mud, debris jammed in them. Core problems are not much of an issue, simply remove it, air the tire, replace the cap and drive until the stem can be replaced.

snip

are you saying that you are running inflated tires without Shrader cores, just with the little cap on top of the rim stem? (I'm assuming that by cores you mean the actual valve system with the little spring etc, as I do).


Of course, your latter point is also an interesting one, as in "if you have to wait for everybody else anyway, isn't the super fast airing down kind of a moot point? ".

 

[Bogo]

If you want to vent air fast. Get a tractor valve stem for fluid use: 1 7/8" Tubeless Air/Liquid Valve - .625" Rim Hole - GEMPLER'S (I was thinking they had a shorter one.) Also pick up a few spare cores: New Style TR CH3 Tractor Tire Core Housing - GEMPLER'S These cores are meant to be removed for fluid filling, but they work fine for venting air out of the tire too. In the core is a regular tire inflation core that is used for putting air into the tire.

Of course you will need to drill out the valve stem hole a bit to fit the tractor valve stem in, but they will give you well over twice the air flow. Also rebalancing the tires will be needed as they weigh more.

An issue I see for off road use is truck tires have the valve stem on the outside side slanted out a bit where it can get bumped. Tractors often put them in the middle on the inside where they are well protected.

Gemplers also handles large bore valve stem parts, but they require a bigger inflation chuck so aren't as convenient or universal.

General tire repair stuff at Gemplers: Tire Repair Supplies, Tires & Supplies - GEMPLER'S
Tire Irons: Tire Irons, Tire Bead Breaking Tools, Tires & Supplies - GEMPLER'S
The one I use and like: 24" long, 11/16" stock Drop-center Tire Spoon - GEMPLER'S I have a pair of them.

 

[Tools R Us]

are you saying that you are running inflated tires without Shrader cores, just with the little cap on top of the rim stem? (I'm assuming that by cores you mean the actual valve system with the little spring etc, as I do).

Yes, the Shrader valve core. If you look, the better valve caps have seals, o-rings, they seal well, so a tire can be run with the Shrader valve core out, missing, and the cap will seal it.

Of course, your latter point is also an interesting one, as in "if you have to wait for everybody else anyway, isn't the super fast airing down kind of a moot point? ".

It allows time to get the PC tracking, name, make the first file save for the day, BS, help others, etc. Of course, if someone is moving one toy to each tire, not likely to wait that long, catch up if you can.