schuy2147
SILVER Star
Anyone know how much either bumper weighs? Are front spring swaps recommended for the extra weight?
ARB vs Ironman bumper (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter kody472
- Start date
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I think 90#ish....
(this is just recall from IM videos and anecdote, surely someone else can be more precise)
You'll definitely want heavier rate springs, especially if you are looking to mount a winch too.
I am mid install, I worked on it part of the day yesterday and got the fenders (not flares) trimmed and the winch cradle and frame mounts installed.
I will say the instructions are lacking detail.
I also got shorted on M12 bolts, the packing list has 8 and I got 7, however, step 5 calls for 3 per side (6) and step 10 also requires 3 per side (6) so they should be supplying 12. 
I will post photos and more detail once I’m done.
eta the 8th bolt was in my pocket from
Running to Home Depot
I will say the instructions are lacking detail.
I also got shorted on M12 bolts, the packing list has 8
I will post photos and more detail once I’m done.
eta the 8th bolt was in my pocket from
Running to Home Depot
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schuy2147
SILVER Star
Thanks. I'm currently running the OME medium duty lift springs (2885) so just wondering if I need to step up to the heavy duty springs.
I’m also running 2885s, so far seems ok but I haven’t mounted the winch yet.
I have seen a few installs documented but never with much detail. The question others have had is how much trimming is actually required and what other mods are needed.
After removing the bumper cover you will see these brackets underneath the headlights. These don’t support the headlight but rather support the bumper cover. Since it is removed these are no longer needed and need to be removed for the new bumper.
You need to start conservative with removing sheet metal. I started with a level line from the bottom of the headlight and a template of the new bumper edge.
I have seen a few installs documented but never with much detail. The question others have had is how much trimming is actually required and what other mods are needed.
After removing the bumper cover you will see these brackets underneath the headlights. These don’t support the headlight but rather support the bumper cover. Since it is removed these are no longer needed and need to be removed for the new bumper.
You need to start conservative with removing sheet metal. I started with a level line from the bottom of the headlight and a template of the new bumper edge.
Here’s a reference measurement to the bolt.
To start I was hoping to keep as much sheet metal as possible as a starting point so mapped out the initial cut
the bolt I am pointing to here bolts to a bracket on the headlight and the headlight was sort of floppy with it removed, so I wanted to retain it.
ultimately the bumper was too narrow to fit over the sheetmetal under the headlight. So I had to cut along the rest of the gold line under the headlight. Here is the first test fit - the initial cut was not far back enough.
To start I was hoping to keep as much sheet metal as possible as a starting point so mapped out the initial cut
the bolt I am pointing to here bolts to a bracket on the headlight and the headlight was sort of floppy with it removed, so I wanted to retain it.
ultimately the bumper was too narrow to fit over the sheetmetal under the headlight. So I had to cut along the rest of the gold line under the headlight. Here is the first test fit - the initial cut was not far back enough.
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Started by trimming another 2” which allowed the bumper to get bolted up to the bracket which is slotted front to back (bumper is slotted up and down) there’s a decent amount of adjustment. The final position was with the bumper as high as possible and as far to the front as possible on the top bolt, then rotated forward so the bumper aligned with the fender well and the hood barely cleared the bull bar hoop.
Photo of the other side showing how I incrementally trimmed more until the bumper could align with the wheelwell opening. Once in final alignment I used a spacer to scribe a final cut line parallel with the edges of the bumper.
Photo of the other side showing how I incrementally trimmed more until the bumper could align with the wheelwell opening. Once in final alignment I used a spacer to scribe a final cut line parallel with the edges of the bumper.
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with the bumper pushed as far up and to the rear as adjustment would allow I traced a line along the edge of the hood to cut so the hood can clear.
once you have everything aligned there are two holes you transfer from the bumper to the mounting bracket in order to pin the bumper in place.
Touch up paint everything prior to final install. You can see here the piece of sheetmetal I was able to retain for the lower headlight mount. I did trim it back quite a bit and cut off the threaded studs
I recomend removing the flares for the install (peel them back, full removal requires removing some bolts that are hard to access without removing the running boards). All the trimming would be difficult with the flares in place and it also is less critical if you slightly overtrim the sheetmetal. The flare is your finished surface that everyone sees.
I used a similar rough and final trimming process with the flares. Cutting enough so they can go into place and then using the edges of the bumper to scribe a parallel cut line. I used a multi tool to do the final cuts and it seemed to leave the best finish.
Touch up paint everything prior to final install. You can see here the piece of sheetmetal I was able to retain for the lower headlight mount. I did trim it back quite a bit and cut off the threaded studs
I recomend removing the flares for the install (peel them back, full removal requires removing some bolts that are hard to access without removing the running boards). All the trimming would be difficult with the flares in place and it also is less critical if you slightly overtrim the sheetmetal. The flare is your finished surface that everyone sees.
I used a similar rough and final trimming process with the flares. Cutting enough so they can go into place and then using the edges of the bumper to scribe a parallel cut line. I used a multi tool to do the final cuts and it seemed to leave the best finish.
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These hard lines for the power steering cooler need to be bent to fit around the frame brackets. I plan to sleeve them with some rubber line for chafe protection.
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More photos of the mounting bracket
Finished install
Nice job! The worst part by far was all of the test fitting and trimming away more than I initially planned (like the lower headlight housing mounts). Trying to find the right balance of maximizing clearance, minimizing the under headlight gap, trimming the fenders, and clearing the hood/center hoop took me about half a day to get it where I wanted.
Once the fit is good, wiring and the final assembly takes no time at all. Just be sure to keep as much of the plastic inner fender liner as possible. I managed to tuck almost all of it into the side wing skid/cover things. If you cut too much away, hydrolocking becomes a serious concern if water splashes just the wrong way into your intake.
Those should be removed anyway, but I digress
@Toyoland66
MAAAAD props dude!! WELL documented install!!!!!
That's the most comprehensive on the details i've seen ... for ANY bumper install...
MAAAAD props dude!! WELL documented install!!!!!
That's the most comprehensive on the details i've seen ... for ANY bumper install...
schuy2147
SILVER Star
Excellent write-up!! Thank you!
- Thread starter
- #59
@Toyoland66
Some people are left and right, but you are alright!
This writeup is better than anything I could have ever done! This will help me tremendously on my install.
Some people are left and right, but you are alright!
This writeup is better than anything I could have ever done! This will help me tremendously on my install.
@Toyoland66 that is brilliant documentation, especially the measurements for the cuts to a reference point!
Do you have a photo of the truck profile to show how you have the bumper wings aligned with the fender arch?
Do you have it tilted forward to clear the grill while opening? I've read a number of owners who say the only way to get the bumper positioned high and tucked back without a forward lean is to have the grill hit the center hoop when the hood opens. It doesn't seem like the grill is all that flexible to gently bend out of the way constantly.
Do you have a photo of the truck profile to show how you have the bumper wings aligned with the fender arch?
Do you have it tilted forward to clear the grill while opening? I've read a number of owners who say the only way to get the bumper positioned high and tucked back without a forward lean is to have the grill hit the center hoop when the hood opens. It doesn't seem like the grill is all that flexible to gently bend out of the way constantly.
