ARB Skid Plate System - just ordered! (2 Viewers)

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I couldn't image why it wouldn't. But then my imagination isn't what it used to be!
 
Here are a few pics of my friend Chris' install. He modified those plastic deflectors very slightly. I saw the install. Very clean!!
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Questions here, he'll answer.
 
Thanks. The last photo answered it all. Attempted to do it sans lift. No chance. It has a date with a shop for install on Sat.
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Moose,
You can absolutely do it without a lift! I did it by myself with a pair of ramps and a floor jack to hold the plates up and in place.

Arich,
Your friend's rig has the wind deflectors re-installed with just minor trimming, but those things are going to bounce and flex and likely come loose as there is nothing holding them on aft of the front lip fasteners. It was my goal to save the deflectors as much as possible, but when I installed them as shown above I wasn't happy with how loose and "floppy" they were - I figure you'll hear them hitting the ARB bar at speed. That's my opinion, anyway. [EDIT...I just noticed that it looks like he may have reused a fastener into the hole on the front skid that would normally be used to attach the ARB skid to an ARB bumper - I didn't do that]

I just received the new trans plate last night and should get to installing it tonight or tomorrow (Sat. at latest).
 
From Chris, (he's at work and can't post)

The wind deflectors dont flap and I'm adding a reinforced connection at the rear of the flap for another future poast on ih8mud. The skidplate holes we attached it to work perfectly, the arb kit came with two inserts for those holes that accepts the wind deflector bolts. In my opinion its best to keep the wind deflectors on. Every little bit of splash protection to keep debris off those radflos and the front end helps.
 
I'm simply not that smart! I didn't think to use that attachment point!

Truth be told - I did look at it but thought that it was twisting the deflector and I simply didn't want to rig something to make it stable. I'll be adding some new coil-overs and at some point I'd like to get an ARB front bumper and you end up having to toss that piece anyway. That wind deflector is just out there to block some wind and improve aerodynamics (ha) on a stock height vehicle...... In my opinion once you've raised the vehicle at all over stock, those little factory tweaks to aerodynamics are purely ornamental. They also aren't going to do much to keep mud and debris off the coil overs..... I'm pretty sure they [the Radflo's] are engineered to take that kind of stuff anyway! ;) But I agree with your friend - any improved protection, be it from wind or debris, is not a bad idea!
 
How are these things faring now that we've had a couple of months with them?

Our proline bumper bash plate mounts to the three factory hard mounts on the cross member. Can you tell how this might interoperate with that portion of the ARB?

Thank you

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Moose,
You can absolutely do it without a lift! I did it by myself with a pair of ramps and a floor jack to hold the plates up and in place.

Arich,
Your friend's rig has the wind deflectors re-installed with just minor trimming, but those things are going to bounce and flex and likely come loose as there is nothing holding them on aft of the front lip fasteners. It was my goal to save the deflectors as much as possible, but when I installed them as shown above I wasn't happy with how loose and "floppy" they were - I figure you'll hear them hitting the ARB bar at speed. That's my opinion, anyway. [EDIT...I just noticed that it looks like he may have reused a fastener into the hole on the front skid that would normally be used to attach the ARB skid to an ARB bumper - I didn't do that]

I just received the new trans plate last night and should get to installing it tonight or tomorrow (Sat. at latest).
I was under the impression that the deflectors were meant to channel air to cool down the brakes.
 
What exactly do you have to do to change the oil and filter, remove the front plate? Do you think you can drill and access hole and still leave it sturdy enough for access?
 
What exactly do you have to do to change the oil and filter, remove the front plate? Do you think you can drill and access hole and still leave it sturdy enough for access?
Just the front plate needs to be removed, the cutout shouldn't be too much of an issue, if the plate doesn't seem as rigid after the cut outs couldn't you weld on some to keep it rigid
 
You do need to remove the front plate to change the oil. The plate is one stout piece of hardware - and it is certainly an extra step involved to remove it (I've done it twice now to change the oil), but it isn't that difficult and I'd rather not cut a hole that large in it. Here's an image of what the backside of the plate looks like that you are removing.... (The front is closest to the camera)
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There are 8 fasteners involved in removal/replacement.
 
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Holy crap! Wonder how the grease jockeys at Jiffy Lube would handle that ... :confused:
 
How heavy is that piece? How hard it is to remove with one hand holding it in place and the other removing bolts? How likely are you for getting smacked up side the head?
 
Chances of getting smacked are good. I place a rolling floor jack under it (or I used a cardboard box last time since I was lazy) - but then I have 5 anchors holding my shoulder together - so I'm cautious as my surgery cost as much as my truck.

If you removed all the fasteners except for the very center one - you could probably hold in place while removing the center fastener with one hand and balancing the plate with the other. If you are under the truck with a creeper you can just lay it on your stomach/chest and roll out!

I don't know the weight off hand - probably 20-25 pounds (? +/-) - but it is also large in size so balancing it is half the fun
 
Holy crap! Wonder how the grease jockeys at Jiffy Lube would handle that ... :confused:
I wouldn't find out! Or it'd be the case where they simply didn't perform the service and then charge you anyway!
 
I also did it on the ground without any problems. The 200 is lifted which helps any work under there and there was plenty of space. I lifted the plates into place by hand because I was too lazy to drag over a jack but oil changes look like they are going to be a pain.

Two wishes for improvement:

- make the recessions large enough to reuse the factory M8 captured washers on factory bolts rather than their bolt/spring/flat loose pieces

- eliminate the need for any new loose nuts to be used by welding nuts instead. This will be annoying every oil change when already dealing with a heavy plate
 
Fwiw the latest ARB skid design incorporates a oil drain "shield" for the skid, so you can absolutely change oil without pulling the skid.
 
Glad I waited.
 

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