ARB/OME 861/2861 (170/250#) front and ARB/OME 862/2862 (170/260#) rear with 24" DOBINSONS? (1 Viewer)

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gents,

anyone have a part number for a set of four 24" dobinsons or other shocks that would go well with these ARB/OME dual rate springs:

ARB/OME 861/2861 (170/250#) front and ARB/OME 862/2862 (170/260#) rear.

vehicle is a 97 LX 450 with 225K. no front bumper or rear bumper but i expect to put sliders on it and a decent roof rack eventually. i also pack heavy.

aside from tools i also need to pick up a set of four 30mm spacers and four extended brake lines?

lastly any good black friday coronavirus deals on these or reliable mud members to buy from?

THANKS
 
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I you are asking a bout suspension stuff you can go to the Compiled 80 series suspension spec thread...




Are you asking about the Dobinson yellow shocks? If so then if you a runing those coil by them self then the 0-3" will keep the coils captured in the buckets. If you add a 30mm coil spaces you can use the 4" lift shocks. Dont forget to lower your bump stops if you go with the longer shocks including the rear coil cone bumps.



Dobinson Yellow Shocks
0"-3" lift shocks
GS59-683 Front 14.56" - 24.72"
GS59-682 Rear 15.03" - 24.80"
4" lift shocks
GS45-912 front 15.35" - 26.37" (Rec BS .5")
GS59-687 rear 16.02" - 26.77" (Rec BS 1.5")
 
I you are asking a bout suspension stuff you can go to the Compiled 80 series suspension spec thread...




Are you asking about the Dobinson yellow shocks? If so then if you a runing those coil by them self then the 0-3" will keep the coils captured in the buckets. If you add a 30mm coil spaces you can use the 4" lift shocks. Dont forget to lower your bump stops if you go with the longer shocks including the rear coil cone bumps.



Dobinson Yellow Shocks
0"-3" lift shocks
GS59-683 Front 14.56" - 24.72"
GS59-682 Rear 15.03" - 24.80"
4" lift shocks
GS45-912 front 15.35" - 26.37" (Rec BS .5")
GS59-687 rear 16.02" - 26.77" (Rec BS 1.5")

THANKS GWN,
i’ve been trying to study up. i have the thread you mentioned, your help and the DVS and SLEE install guides i reviewed again.
so if i want a little extra lift i add the 30mm coils and go with the GS45-912 / GS59-687. or if i don’t want the extra lift or if i want to play it really really safe with potential drivetrain issues (?) i go with the 3” shock and no spacer? or what is the consideration here?
also THANK TOU for the heads up on the bump stops. is there a thread anywhere addressing how to lower them? in all honesty i don’t know what they are or what they do just yet...
 
I should of asked you more questions.
Are you going to wheel or overland or stick to fire roads?
What size tire are you going to run?

Bump stops do 2 things... protect longer shock from bottoming out & fenders from bigger tires then 33s.
 
I should of asked you more questions.
Are you going to wheel or overland or stick to fire roads?
What size tire are you going to run?

Bump stops do 2 things... protect longer shock from bottoming out & fenders from bigger tires then 33s.

hey man.
thanks for all the help. also a BIG thanks for that thread.
i do not plan to do any rock crawling beyond getting where i want to go. i'm never totally sure what "wheel" means to be honest. i've done labrador on my motorcycle and i suppose if the stars align i would do the trans-taiga in the LC. i'm also not far from big bend so i would probably get more adventurous on the off roads in big bend if i had something that could handle it.
right now i have 265/75's and i haven't really thought about what size tires to run. i guess i have not been able to get past the body roll and the sag in the back.
obviously i am all ears in terms of getting good advice.
THANKS
 
K then if you stay 33s or less then stick with the 0-3" shocks then dont need bump stop at all.
 
K then if you stay 33s or less then stick with the 0-3" shocks then dont need bump stop at all.
THANKS.
so these: GS59-683 Front 14.56" - 24.72"
GS59-682 Rear 15.03" - 24.80"
and can i just please ask if i get 4 - 30 mm spacers? and/or should i get any kind of front to back or left to right leveling spacers with the shocks or coils?
 
Well you dont need the 30mm coil spacers for the shorter shocks unless you want more lift then stock height.
As for 10mm packers you never know till you install & let the coils settle in.
 
Well you dont need the 30mm coil spacers for the shorter shocks unless you want more lift then stock height.
As for 10mm packers you never know till you install & let the coils settle in.

THANKS. so can you give me just a gut call on the 30mm spacers? it's kind of a fine tuned decision in a way (at least for me) in the sense it is kind of hard to eyeball the difference between stock height and stock height and 30 mm spacers?

any thoughts? may as well go for it? why bother?

i'd much rather ask and get your input than not...

THANKS A TON
 
gents,

anyone have a part number for a set of four 24" dobinsons or other shocks that would go well with these ARB/OME dual rate springs:

ARB/OME 861/2861 (170/250#) front and ARB/OME 862/2862 (170/260#) rear.

vehicle is a 97 LX 450 with 225K. no front bumper or rear bumper but i expect to put sliders on it and a decent roof rack eventually. i also pack heavy.

aside from tools i also need to pick up a set of four 30mm spacers and four extended brake lines?

lastly any good black friday coronavirus deals on these or reliable mud members to buy from?

THANKS

hmmm. is there a new part number for the OME/ARB coils?

i am showing 2861 front and 2862 rear.

but slee site seems to show 2850 front and 2860 rear?

anyone able to verify one way or another?

OME 2851 front coils.png


OME 2860 front coils.png
 
The 861 is a 10mm lift.
862 is 20mm as spec from OME.
20" from bottom of flare to center of hub is generally what 20 year old coils sit at. So the front could sit at 40mm which is just shy of 2" more realistically like 1.5" lift like 21.5" in front. In rear could sit at 20mm plus 30mm so at 50mm which is 2" lift doing the math. My rig sat at 21.5"...

You also have yhe option of doing 25mm coils spacers in the rear.
 
The 2 just means 2 coils.
2861/2862 are stock height.
2850/2860 is about a 1.5" lift in front & 2.5" rear lift.
 
The 2 just means 2 coils.
2861/2862 are stock height.
2850/2860 is about a 1.5" lift in front & 2.5" rear lift.

THANKS. jesus.
so sounds like 2861/2862 with the 0-3” dobinsons. (not sure why i don’t see it on slee’s site).
and i am correct it is a good call to get the dobinson shocks over the OME? or while different topic?(!)
 
Ive been told new OEM shocks work great with the 861/862 coils also... they are very close to same leangth as 0-3" shocks.
 
Ive been told new OEM shocks work great with the 861/862 coils also... they are very close to same leangth as 0-3" shocks.

OK. thanks. this stuff makes me dyslexic.

so is it still a good call to do the dobinson shock with the 861/862 OME coils?

and are you saying the OME shocks work well with the 861/862 (not OEM i guess?)?

and should i be getting a front damper of some kind?

just trying to drive a stake through this.

THANKS
 
2861 and 2862 are "stock height springs" and we have a kit listed with that. The springs are progressive, but the free height is such that if used with regular OME shocks they stay captive and wont' come loose at full droop. If used with other shocks, you need to compare the extended length of those shocks to the OME shocks to determine if they springs will stay captive or not.

Here is our stock height kit
 
2861 and 2862 are "stock height springs" and we have a kit listed with that. The springs are progressive, but the free height is such that if used with regular OME shocks they stay captive and wont' come loose at full droop. If used with other shocks, you need to compare the extended length of those shocks to the OME shocks to determine if they springs will stay captive or not.

Here is our stock height kit

thanks. N60018 shocks front and rear for that setup? and 862’s are out of stock so you would call in with an order? it isn’t letting me complete the selection on my phone.

i didn’t quite catch the business about free height and being captive so if anyone doesn’t mind filling me in i would be happy to get the help.

THANKS

“The springs are progressive, but the free height is such that if used with regular OME shocks they stay captive and wont' come loose at full droop.”
 
SNIP

i didn’t quite catch the business about free height and being captive so if anyone doesn’t mind filling me in i would be happy to get the help.

THANKS

“The springs are progressive, but the free height is such that if used with regular OME shocks they stay captive and wont' come loose at full droop.”

If your shiocks extend enough, they have the possibility when the suspension is fully unloaded/drooped down of pushing the axle down far enough so the coil spring might get loose and not reseat the lower end of the coil when the suspension then compresses. Could get messy...You'll understand this better once you install the coils as creating this situation in a controlled manner is how you change the coils, with the front ones being the most obvious. The situation only occurs with certain coil./shock combos and Slee will advise you if there's something needs addressed when you buy. But what follows should avoid this...

I run the 861/862 coils, ,purchased from Slee long time ago. They are very helpful. Heed the advice to juice all the fasteners well over several days to a week, especially the rear shcok mounts, before the start.

I initially went with the Toyota OEM Tokico shocks.They fit and work great with 851/862 coils. However, I add an ARB, 12k winch and extra battery up front and the OEM shocks couldn't deal with the extra weight. That's when I went with the OME Nitro Sport shocks * on the front axle only * and they did the trick. Some say they're a bit harsh, but I have enough weight it just seems right.

I've maintained the oddball OME Nitro sport front/Yoyota OEM Tokico shock combo since because it just works so dang well. If I was you and not the extra weight up front like I have, go with the Toyota Tokico shocks all around. I have lots of extra weight in the back and did add aidbags in the rear, but that's to deal with towing and I normally run the bags at 10 lbs. The Tokicos are designed for the truck, they're competitively priced, and readily available.

Finally, with 33" tires on 861/852, there's no need for the spacers. You've got plenty of clearnce. Choose your roof rack carefully in terms of what parking garages you can fit in in the big city. Our truck has no rack (but do have a couple of stubby antennas that would mean a very short rack may do it) on 33s etc as in the sig line and we fit in most every garage in the big city (anything less than 6'6"). Add height from there and there end up being places that you can't use to park.
 
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If your shiocks extend enough, they have the possibility when the suspension is fully unloaded/drooped down of pushing the axle down far enough so the coil spring might get loose and not reseat the lower end of the coil when the suspension then compresses. Could get messy...You'll understand this better once you install the coils as creating this situation in a controlled manner is how you change the coils, with the front ones being the most obvious. The situation only occurs with certain coil./shock combos and Slee will advise you if there's something needs addressed when you buy. But what follows should avoid this...

I run the 861/862 coils, ,purchased from Slee long time ago. They are very helpful. Heed the advice to juice all the fasteners well over several days to a week, especially the rear shcok mounts, before the start.

I initially went with the Toyota OEM Tokico shocks.They fit and work great with 851/862 coils. However, I add an ARB, 12k winch and extra battery up front and the OEM shocks couldn't deal with the extra weight. That's when I went with the OME Nitro Sport shocks * on the front axle only * and they did the trick. Some say they're a bit harsh, but I have enough weight it just seems right.

I've maintained the oddball OME Nitro sport front/Yoyota OEM Tokico shock combo since because it just works so dang well. If I was you and not the extra weight up front like I have, go with the Toyota Tokico shocks all around. I have lots of extra weight in the back and did add aidbags in the rear, but that's to deal with towing and I normally run the bags at 10 lbs. The Tokicos are designed for the truck, they're competitively priced, and readily available.

Finally, with 33" tires on 861/852, there's no need for the spacers. You've got plenty of clearnce. Choose your roof rack carefully in terms of what parking garages you can fit in in the big city. Our truck has no rack (but do have a couple of stubby antennas that would mean a very short rack may do it) on 33s etc as in the sig line and we fit in most every garage in the big city (anything less than 6'6"). Add height from there and there end up being places that you can't use to park.

hey GT.
thanks for all that. its a /great/ help.
i am including the info below on the stock lift with OME.
one thing i don't think i realized is both the stock and 2 1/2" setups on the OME's use the 60018/60020 shocks. to be honest i took so many notes on this so long ago i can't quite remember why i wanted to do the mix and match with the dobinson shock and the OME coils.
now the only issue outstanding seems to be whether to start out with the medium duty 851/860's which i am gathering have the advantage of letting me swap out the front coils to a heavier coil or swap out the rear coils for a heavier coil if i add weight. from the sounds of it this is a $500 bump to the 2 1/2" lift.
and i would have to add the landtank/wits end or slee caster correction plates AFAIK since i already have 6 OEM radius arm bushings.

OME2861 OME Coil Spring - Front - '91-97 Land Cruiser
OME2862 OME Coil Spring - Rear - '91-97 Land Cruiser
N60018-S OME Nitrocharger Sport Shock - Front
N60020-S OME Nitrocharger Sport Shock - Rear

OH! i think i have 265/75 R16's on this thing now? can i keep those with the stock lift i guess? but if i go to 2 1/2" i need to get new tires?
 
A major advantage of the OME stock height 861/862 coils is that no caster correction will be necessary. If you go to the 2.5" lift, caster correction become quite likely.

For the use you described, the stock height will serve you well. Going higher has advantages and it has disadvantages. It will cost more to build and more to run. Unless you need it, not worth the hassle. In my case, it wouldn't go in the garage, either Note that the 861/862 will look higher, but after a few months that will settle and you'll be back where you started, EXCEPT you'll have decent coils providing much improved performance over the tired originals.

The stockish tires are going to look a little odd, but unless they need updating and the rubber's good, go ahead and get more miles out if them, then get new tires when you're looking at a. road trip, freshen them. Getting to 33s is just a matter of asking for them, nothing else needed. Then you'll have a vehcile with the capabilities to outdrive (in the woods at least) 99%+ of all vehicles legal for road use. Spending thousands more to attain supremacy over the rest of them (mostly other Land Cruisers, anyway) can be a hobby in itself. If you need to just get there, the stock 80 will do the job.
 
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