arb locker switches (1 Viewer)

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Not sure...but you'd have to swap out the splined sleeve since 80-Series axles are 30-spline and 100-Series axles are 32-spline and possibly the shift fork too as a minimum...not sure if the e-locker is the same or not. And that's assuming the locker sleeve has the same mating pattern 80 to 100 to the diff cover it mates to...

Not sure what mods you'd need to do, if any, on a non-diff lock diff carrier. May not be worth the trouble.

Beno?
 
The lamps are there, based upon my '99, but you have to run a wire to that lamp from the OEM switch. There is also, for the diesel non-NA versions, a diesel air cleaner symbol and lamp...I'm using it for my aux tank.

Somebody here actually ran power from their ARB switch to that front locker lamp...

Thanks Dan, I may try and do the same.
 
Per farinvail I like the ability to use each locker independently...as well as together.

Eaton, if you can find someone to sell them to you, makes quite a selection of nice looking switches. Much better looking and a bit more svelte than what ARB is using. But the ARBs function just fine...

I got the dial switch(for an 80 series) from Onur at American Toyota with the pig tail for a future install. My thoughts are to wire it backwards so front locker activates 1st, then the rear locker if both are needed.
 
My objective when wiring the ARB lockers:
A) The ability to run the compressor without either axle being locked
B) The ability to lock either the front or rear axle independently.

For some reason, I don't think the 80 series switch can accomplish this. Mainly, it requires at least one axle to lock in order to turn on the compressor.
 
My objective when wiring the ARB lockers:
A) The ability to run the compressor without either axle being locked
B) The ability to lock either the front or rear axle independently.

For some reason, I don't think the 80 series switch can accomplish this. Mainly, it requires at least one axle to lock in order to turn on the compressor.

What about using a factory fog light switch to activate the compressor on the lower left hand side. Then you would soley be able to use air, and if you need either the front/rear/both lockers then you activate the air then the locker switch?
 
My objective when wiring the ARB lockers:
A) The ability to run the compressor without either axle being locked
B) The ability to lock either the front or rear axle independently.

For some reason, I don't think the 80 series switch can accomplish this. Mainly, it requires at least one axle to lock in order to turn on the compressor.
Just wondering why you would want to run the compressor if you are not locking the diff.
 
To use my super duper ARB air compressor like airing up tires and other stuff.
 
To use my super duper ARB air compressor like airing up tires and other stuff.
You can put a switch under the hood or next to the air hose connector that will bypass the ARB switches.

Which ABR compressor do you have?
 
The new ARB CKMTA12
 
The new ARB CKMTA12
Please report back on that, I'll be interested to see how it does in the Real World®.

The standard ARB dual locker harness has the rear locker switch in parallel with the compressor, ie no power to the locker solenoid switch until the compressor is powered. The front locker is wired in a similar manner, no power to the switch until the rear locker solenoid is on.

I would retain the feature that requires the compressor to be on before there is power to either solenoid switch. To enable the front locker independent of the rear locker just add a jumper from the rear locker switch power pin to the front locker switch power pin.
 
I got the dial switch(for an 80 series) from Onur at American Toyota with the pig tail for a future install. My thoughts are to wire it backwards so front locker activates 1st, then the rear locker if both are needed.

My lockers and gears just came in. I am looking for five digit number that is on the actual pig tail. I have the 80 series switch, but I am having a tough time finding that number. Do you think you could take a gander at the pig tail for me?
 
My objective when wiring the ARB lockers:
A) The ability to run the compressor without either axle being locked
B) The ability to lock either the front or rear axle independently.

For some reason, I don't think the 80 series switch can accomplish this. Mainly, it requires at least one axle to lock in order to turn on the compressor.

You never want to lock the front without the rear, surefire way to break something up front, this is why ARB harness is wired so the rear has to be engaged for the front to work.
 
You never want to lock the front without the rear, surefire way to break something up front, this is why ARB harness is wired so the rear has to be engaged for the front to work.

Sorry, but not at all the case. There are many situations where only a locked front is needed. And you can wire-up ARB diffs that way.
 
Sorry, but not at all the case. There are many situations where only a locked front is needed. And you can wire-up ARB diffs that way.

Give me an instance of when and why you would want the front locked only.
 
You never want to lock the front without the rear, surefire way to break something up front, this is why ARB harness is wired so the rear has to be engaged for the front to work.

Wire it this way then.
Probably the best idea to keep it per ARB design spec.
Mainly for warranty reasons.
 
In Moab in 02 Jeff Zepp blew a rear axle in his 70 series, we were going to drive out on the front axle, I cautioned him to take it easy and use bypass', he soon tried to bump over a ledge, and blew the front R&P, became a 6000 lb trailer.
 
I used to have problems with my ARB hoses leaking in the desert on long trips. I found having the ability to run either axel in locked independent of the other to be useful when I had a hose leak on the other axel. I didn't ever have any problems running only the front, but I didn't do that very often.
 
Give me an instance of when and why you would want the front locked only.

Muddy off camber climb out of a ditch. I experienced this first hand with my old TJ about 9 years ago at Windrock / Coal Creek OHV area outside of Oak Ridge, TN.

The trail required you to drop the driver side tires in the ditch, run about 20 yards, then stay straight while the ditch took a left and dropped off a 20 foot vertical drop. No matter what I did open or fully locked, I could not get the front end out of the rut. The front would get close to being out, then slide to the left. I finally locked only the front, left the rear open, and let the front end claw me out of the rut. I could have winched, but I didn't want to.

Similar to doing a front dig if you have a transfer case that allows you to shift front and rear drive separately.

It can be quite handy, but the driver needs to use some common sense to avoid overloading drivetrain components. This is why virtually no rigs allow for shifting the transfer case into low range and maintaining two wheel drive ....
 

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