ARB dual compressor mount: Slee or SDHQ? (1 Viewer)

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I ran the dual compressor without the manifold kit for a few years on previous vehicles and it led to the first few feet of the air hose getting insanely hot. I installed the manifold after the original hose failed due to high heat.

Agree 100% on this!

I've had 2 failures where the hose out of the compressor got to hot and went kaboom after it melted away from the fitting.

I have added the manifold now and zero issues with it running non stop to fill (4) 42" tires.
 
I used the SLEE bracket and frankly wish I had gone with the SDHQ. While I do not have any rubbing or powder coat issues, the fit is so incredibly tight it makes any adjustments very difficult and particularly makes working w/ wiring and the fuse box a PITA. The passenger side is just much more roomy and generally left unused in my application.
 
I had to loosen my slee mount once to wire in a light bar. It sucked. But I will do that one or two times more for the rest of my ownership.. I still think it's a better product when comparing the two.
 
If I started over I’d get the SDHQ simply because it’s passenger side. I’d get all of my electrical stuff off the fuse box and put it where Slee compressor currently is.
I’m just now getting into all my electrical mods and am wondering if you have a fuse block? If so, did you mount it on the passenger side? And can you post a pic or two of your engine bay mods? I’m hoping to skip a permanent second battery and use an EconFlow. I found a fast charging solution on YouTube and am now just trying to figure out all the wiring. I just mounted the slee / ARB compressor system so am in a similar situation.
 
I’m just now getting into all my electrical mods and am wondering if you have a fuse block? If so, did you mount it on the passenger side? And can you post a pic or two of your engine bay mods? I’m hoping to skip a permanent second battery and use an EconFlow. I found a fast charging solution on YouTube and am now just trying to figure out all the wiring. I just mounted the slee / ARB compressor system so am in a similar situation.

I’ve had like 3-4 different solutions as my needs (and expertise) changed

  • Blue-sea 6 blade fuse block and lots of relays and switches
  • Blue-sea safety hub 100
  • Blue-sea safety hub 150 and slee accessory panel
  • Switch-pro 9100
Through the ages (lol)



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I’ve had like 3-4 different solutions as my needs (and expertise) changed

  • Blue-sea 6 blade fuse block and lots of relays and switches
  • Blue-sea safety hub 100
  • Blue-sea safety hub 150 and slee accessory panel
  • Switch-pro 9100
Through the ages (lol)



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Thank you! These are super helpful. What is the mounting solution on the last image on top of the battery? Is it a custom/home brew solution?
 
I’ve had like 3-4 different solutions as my needs (and expertise) changed

  • Blue-sea 6 blade fuse block and lots of relays and switches
  • Blue-sea safety hub 100
  • Blue-sea safety hub 150 and slee accessory panel
  • Switch-pro 9100
Through the ages (lol)



View attachment 3715114View attachment 3715115View attachment 3715116View attachment 3715117
Do you have anything running directly off the battery now or does everything run into the Blue-Sea? I want to add an inverter to charge my Eco-flow and am wondering how to do that so it’s only charging when the motor is running.
 
Do you have anything running directly off the battery now or does everything run into the Blue-Sea? I want to add an inverter to charge my Eco-flow and am wondering how to do that so it’s only charging when the motor is running.

It's your lucky day because I was working on this anyway :)


Charging your Eco-Flow which is 12v via an inverter sounds really inefficient. You should consider a DC charger running in power supply mode. My Victron has the ability to only run when engine is running. Otherwise you'll need a voltage sensing relay.
 
Charging your Eco-Flow which is 12v via an inverter sounds really inefficient. You should consider a DC charger running in power supply mode. My Victron has the ability to only run when engine is running. Otherwise you'll need a voltage sensing relay.

I was thinking the same thing. I’m in the middle of deciding between an ecoflow and an engine-bay-mounted renogy, and I’ve definitely figured out that if it’s the former a DC/DC 12/24 setup is the right way.

After all the added utility of having a robust inverter is wasted because the ecoflow has one already.
 
I was thinking the same thing. I’m in the middle of deciding between an ecoflow and an engine-bay-mounted renogy, and I’ve definitely figured out that if it’s the former a DC/DC 12/24 setup is the right way.

After all the added utility of having a robust inverter is wasted because the ecoflow has one already.
I found this on YT. Seems to makes sense. I had the same “clicking” issue he had and sent the battery back for a replacement. Turns out the issue was on my end:
 
Just make sure when adding a DCDC charger you can set the input/output amps

Some of the new ones pushing 50-60a. Run that with a stock OEM alternator and the Alt is not going to live very long.

I run a Sterling 60a DCDC on the ram because I have (2) 220amp alts.

On the 200 I’ll be running the new Victron but throttling it down to 20a so as to not over strain the Alt.

My .02
 
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Just make sure when adding a DCDC charger you can set the input/output amps

Some of the new ones pushing 50-60a. Run that with a stock OEM alternator and it’s not going to live very long.

I run a Sterling 60a DCDC on the ram because I have (2) 220amp alts.

On the 200 I’ll be running the new Victron but throttling it down to 20a so as to not over strain the Alt.

My .02
I’m a total newbie with all of this, but this is a converter (vs charger) that bumps the input up to 25v-30v to simulate the higher output from solar charging. I think that means its input draw is low - in the 15a range. Am I understanding that correctly?
 
I’m a total newbie with all of this, but this is a converter (vs charger) that bumps the input up to 25v-30v to simulate the higher output from solar charging. I think that means its input draw is low - in the 15a range. Am I understanding that correctly?

I’m not too sure honestly.

I’m personally not a fan of those big and bulky EcoFlow type things at all. I know many folks love them, and for each is own.

Personally, I think they take up way too much space and their amp/hr per $ cost just doesn’t make sense.

I can hide a 100ah lithium and an inverter and accomplish the same thing, with much more capacity and take up much less valuable storage

That’s me and my case. The ecoflow things work great for some folks though YMMV
 
I’m not too sure honestly.

I’m personally not a fan of those big and bulky EcoFlow type things at all. I know many folks love them, and for each is own.

Personally, I think they take up way too much space and their amp/hr per $ cost just doesn’t make sense.

I can hide a 100ah lithium and an inverter and accomplish the same thing, with much more capacity and take up much less valuable storage

That’s me and my case. The ecoflow things work great for some folks though YMMV
90% of my vehicle use is driving kids around so I need a portable solution I can move out of the rig between trips. Plus the kids take the battery out of the rig at the beach or at sports tournaments. It’s pretty awesome other than the charging situation in the vehicle. It charges to full capacity off an AC wall outlet faster than my phone.
 
90% of my vehicle use is driving kids around so I need a portable solution I can move out of the rig between trips. Plus the kids take the battery out of the rig at the beach or at sports tournaments. It’s pretty awesome other than the charging situation in the vehicle. It charges to full capacity off an AC wall outlet faster than my phone.
So set up a decent inverter in the truck and charge from that and that have it when you need it and don’t need to bring ecoflow

It’s not the “most efficient” but it will work perfectly fine, save a ton of wiring and will end up with a second inverter. Everyone wins
 
So set up a decent inverter in the truck and charge from that and that have it when you need it and don’t need to bring ecoflow

It’s not the “most efficient” but it will work perfectly fine, save a ton of wiring and will end up with a second inverter. Everyone wins
is that the same setup as the DC-DC option above? Seems like it would be - just a different piece of equipment but the same wires.
 

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