ARB Drawer Install - remove factory carpet or no? (1 Viewer)

[Charlie Coyote]

Just had ARB drawers installed by local shop - they did a nice job. 2017 LC. 2 1045s with sliding tops on each. And, side kit.

Got home and realized they removed the factory carpet (was in a hurry when I picked it up, so didn't look closely). No noticeable change in road noise - but don't like the thought of factory carpet not being left alone.

Anyone have a 200 series with carpet left alone and with ARB drawers? And, if so, any unique challenges on install?

I'm horrible at installing things like this - thus why I paid them ($300) for this (their first time installing ARB drawers). But thinking of taking back and asking for a do over.

Thanks!

 

[RS6tofj80]

my truck with drawers kept the OEM carpet....

 

[Charlie Coyote]

Thanks RS6tofj80: Any challenges with install leaving OEM carpet as it was?

 

[Romer]

I left the carpet in, no challenges for me

 

[MrCWineMan]

I left the carpet in, no issues here.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

We leave the OE carpet in all of our installs

 

[gaijin]

I installed the FrontRunner drawers and left the carpet in - no installation problems at all.

I would not like to remove the factory carpet for two main reasons:

- Easy to remove the drawers restore the truck to factory condition if/when I sell it.

- Even though it may be insignificant, I believe leaving the carpet in reduces noise.

HTH

 

[Charlie Coyote]

Thanks everyone! Confirmed my uneducated opinion. Will have a redo done. Good part is, looks like oem carpet goes back in very easily.



QUOTE="gaijin, post: 11597901, member: 83733"]I installed the FrontRunner drawers and left the carpet in - no installation problems at all.

I would not like to remove the factory carpet for two main reasons:

- Easy to remove the drawers restore the truck to factory condition if/when I sell it.

- Even though it may be insignificant, I believe leaving the carpet in reduces noise.

HTH[/QUOTE]

 

[KLF]

Are you sure you are not mistaking the cargo liner for the carpet? I just did this install myself a week ago, it would make the install a lot more work to remove the actual carpeting.

 

[Markuson]

If you mean they took it down to the bare metal...NO. You definitely do not do that.
If you mean a cargo mat that's easily removable...then yes. That would come out.

If they actually removed the "carpet" so that you're looking at bare metal...that was a real screwup.
I installed my first ones in my 100...and now have a second set in my 200, and you certainly don't want to bare the metal.

 

[M1911]

How hard is it to do the install in a 200? Does it require drilling?

 

[Mutant]

How hard is it to do the install in a 200? Does it require drilling?

There are existing threaded holes for 3rd row seats you can use. There are access holes in the carpet. It's not a big deal to drill more holes in better locations tho. I kept my carpet and weathertech cargo liner too under my drawer and box

 

[KLF]

How hard is it to do the install in a 200? Does it require drilling?

It's really not very difficult, the toughest part is interpreting the multiple sets of instructions. I did mine by myself, I took longer than I should have because I'm a fussy OCD engineer, could probably do a set in a couple of hours now, especially if there was a 2nd person. No, there is no drilling required. The only "modification" you need to make is to put a couple of slits in the carpeting and cut off a little bit of plastic from the ductwork under the carpeting to provide room for the front pair of spacers. They bolt down into 4 existing holes in the rear floor, 2 for the rear seats, and 2 for the latching bars in the floor. Very easy.

Pop out the plastic trim on the front latching bars, remove the hardware:

Cut the carpeting (I prefer to use these scissors), fold it under. Now you can see the chunk of plastic ductwork to cut away:

I used my oscillating multi-tool to cut the plastic. Spacer and bolt ready for install:

I really like these drawers.

 

[mcgaskins]

I just installed mine this weekend as well with the help of my brother in law who is really good at stuff like this, and it took about 3 hours with him doing most of the work while I ran 6 gauge wire to the back and wired up a fuse block and hatch lights. At first I thought the carpet had to come out as well, so I pulled it out. Turns out the carpet stays so it went back in before the install, but having the carpet out really helped me work out the wiring so it wasn't all in vain. Excellent mod and well worth the money.

 

[BVCOTaco]

When installing the drawer frame, do you need to remove all 4 latching bars? In the process of installing these in my 200 now.
Looks like the latch and frame were removed in the picture above.

It's really not very difficult, the toughest part is interpreting the multiple sets of instructions. I did mine by myself, I took longer than I should have because I'm a fussy OCD engineer, could probably do a set in a couple of hours now, especially if there was a 2nd person. No, there is no drilling required. The only "modification" you need to make is to put a couple of slits in the carpeting and cut off a little bit of plastic from the ductwork under the carpeting to provide room for the front pair of spacers. They bolt down into 4 existing holes in the rear floor, 2 for the rear seats, and 2 for the latching bars in the floor. Very easy.

Pop out the plastic trim on the front latching bars, remove the hardware:
View attachment 1673459

Cut the carpeting (I prefer to use these scissors), fold it under. Now you can see the chunk of plastic ductwork to cut away:
View attachment 1673460

I used my oscillating multi-tool to cut the plastic. Spacer and bolt ready for install:
View attachment 1673461

I really like these drawers.

 

[KLF]

When installing the drawer frame, do you need to remove all 4 latching bars? In the process of installing these in my 200 now.
Looks like the latch and frame were removed in the picture above.

IIRC, you only need to remove the front pair (assuming you are installing 2 drawers). The rear latches stay intact. The rear bolts go into holes from the 3rd row seat mounts.

 

[BVCOTaco]

IIRC, you only need to remove the front pair (assuming you are installing 2 drawers). The rear latches stay intact. The rear bolts go into holes from the 3rd row seat mounts.

Perfect. That is what I figured after the spacers were placed. Just now getting ready to mount the frame. Then install the fit kit, drawers and top!

 

[BVCOTaco]

Need total of 4 M10x60mm hex head bolts to bolt to floor. 1 of these bolts came in each kit for a total of 2. Hope the hardware store has this size in metric. If not might be a few more days.

 

[Fisher23]

Yes.. I had to get extra bolts from the hardware store. The install directions could be improved.
I put 4 bolts in the 1045 box, 2 on each cross bar.

I didn't cut the carpet like those others, you can just push it to the side for the bolt and spacer. I figured if I sell the 200 I'll keep the boxes and put it back to OEM. Without the carpet being cut.

The cross bar nearest the rear I needed to move so it's over the seat bars... which you remove to install it.
Then I drilled holes in the cross bar so that I used BOTH the bolts for the seat bar.
I also had to drill the 2nd cross bar attachment holes so it lined up over the 2nd latch bar.
The before I put the tops back on I install those YETI cooler tie downs as they sit almost flush and can be used to tie stuff down with straps.

I also did one long box and one short box RD747, so that at least 1 seat in the back can tilt all the way back still for long trips.
With the 41" RD1045 boxes the rear seats can no longer tilt all the way back for snoozing.

I did remove ALL 4 latch bars.. and then I used those 2 bolt holes to bolt the xcross members to the floor.
I needed 2 big spacers below the xcross bars. The spacers came in 2 sizes.
I drilled another hole in the xcross bar to use the 2nd bolt hole in the latch bar bolt hole.

But because I only ran 1 long box and one short box ... I reinstall the forward bar by the short box. The short box so the seat can still lean back on that side.

I put them in on Friday with a friend.

ALSO mine sort of sit on the plastic tail gate piece.. where you have yours on the edge.
I lined mine up with the sides of the fit kit first .. before I lined up the cross bars with the latch bar bolt holes.

On long drives .. the fridge faces forward .. so you can get at it while driving .. and camping it's toward the back.

hope that helps.

 

[Fisher23]

Like this..