OVERTHUNK — ARB Compresor + SLEE Bracket…fuse box clearance? (9 Viewers)
- Thread starter 82SC
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I used a crimp tap connector and ran it to the green wire on the headlight washer for LED light power and then ran the power line to an add-a-fuse and plugged it into the fuse below the steering column for the rear wiper.
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- #23
Bought some 3/8” steel spacers with 8 bolts rather then the 4 bolts in the SLEE instructions. But now I’m rethinking it.
im thinking a rubber pad or heavy duty feet. And I’ll likely blue loctite the bolts. The pads are 1” thick. But hopefully I can find something a little less as I think 3/8 to 1/2 is all I’ll need.
Or a sheet of those interlocking foam floor tiles cut to size.
Hoping it will cut down on noise and reduce stress to the compressor.
im thinking a rubber pad or heavy duty feet. And I’ll likely blue loctite the bolts. The pads are 1” thick. But hopefully I can find something a little less as I think 3/8 to 1/2 is all I’ll need.
Or a sheet of those interlocking foam floor tiles cut to size.
Hoping it will cut down on noise and reduce stress to the compressor.
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Switch is in, everything works, no leaks, all is well.
who makes that switch?
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- #26
Agreed. The 90 degree adds quite a bit. I am actually routing that part differently so I hope I’ll make it by staying under an inch. But with post once I do it.
Cruiser Heads.
Agreed!
No offense but I think that you're over thinking this and going to extremes to avoid clipping a tiny bit of plastic that in no way keeps the clip from doing its job. I've installed these on four different vehicles now and there's no need to add a spacer or rubber foot, you want as secure of a mount as possible due to the torque and vibration they make. If rubber dampeners were needed they would be provided by ARB and the companies who make the mounts. This is just one mans advice but I'd mount it directly to the tray as intended and alter the edge of the fuse box clip.
I also could not bend the hose.
I am not running lockers at the moment so I was just going to pass on hooking up (but installing) the manifold. Other options were to get different right angle nozzles and see if that would work.
I am not running lockers at the moment so I was just going to pass on hooking up (but installing) the manifold. Other options were to get different right angle nozzles and see if that would work.
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- #31
If I didn’t overthink things what would I do?
All joking aside. I dont want to clip even a little plastic. I’m too OCD and the bracket should have been designed to avoid this. Just as they got it wrong with the wire loom rubbing.
And if guys like us didn’t try to improve upon stuff we’d have 100% stock land cruisers and 911’s roaming the streets.
no harm in trying. And if I can solve it. And maybe lessen the noise and stress to the compressor (as any hobby or garage compressor is mounted on rubber feet).
Plus wait til you see the rest. It’s all overthunked
Plus it gives me something to do.
All joking aside. I dont want to clip even a little plastic. I’m too OCD and the bracket should have been designed to avoid this. Just as they got it wrong with the wire loom rubbing.
And if guys like us didn’t try to improve upon stuff we’d have 100% stock land cruisers and 911’s roaming the streets.
no harm in trying. And if I can solve it. And maybe lessen the noise and stress to the compressor (as any hobby or garage compressor is mounted on rubber feet).
Plus wait til you see the rest. It’s all overthunked
Plus it gives me something to do.
If you aren't going to use the manifold then yes you can avoid the hose issue altogether. That said, the added benefit of the manifold is that the braided air line handles the hot, hot, hot air coming from the compressor and saves your coiled air hose. The first foot or two of the air hose when being used directly from the compressor will get insanely hot and and a lot of them will fail in short order because of this. The manifold and hose act as a much more durable sacrificial middle man of sorts to keep your air hose in business a lot longer.
I won't knock a man for trying so you do you haha. I will say that it was initially designed for the original 200, a lot has changed since 2008 and there are slight differences between the LC and LX under the hood as well. The wires from air pump relays touching the mount support bothers me more than clipping the edge of the fuse box clip but that's just me.
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- #34
So here is my mock up.
3/8” spacers.
doesn’t make contact but I still have to wrassle the fuse box lid out.
Gonna bump it up to 1/2” and I think that will do it.
My lines are a pneumatic/hydraulic line kit I got off Amazon called Evil Energy that has hoses and connections.
Plus my setup is
ARB Compressor
ARB Linx
ARB Pressure Control Solenoid
ARB Airbag Control Solenoid
Firestone Dual Airbag
ARB Manifold
SLEE Bracket
And plan to TEE off and put an quick connect in the back too.
I put the quick connect in the front hole of the shroud. Also keeping the profile low.
3/8” spacers.
doesn’t make contact but I still have to wrassle the fuse box lid out.
Gonna bump it up to 1/2” and I think that will do it.
My lines are a pneumatic/hydraulic line kit I got off Amazon called Evil Energy that has hoses and connections.
Plus my setup is
ARB Compressor
ARB Linx
ARB Pressure Control Solenoid
ARB Airbag Control Solenoid
Firestone Dual Airbag
ARB Manifold
SLEE Bracket
And plan to TEE off and put an quick connect in the back too.
I put the quick connect in the front hole of the shroud. Also keeping the profile low.
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Markuson
SILVER Star
If you don’t need to control the compressor for lockers, that makes a lot of sense to switch it under the hood…
bloc
SILVER Star
And when I bought slee’s mount I didn’t even know it had a cutout for the switch. Worked perfect.If you don’t need to control the compressor for lockers, that makes a lot of sense to switch it under the hood…
Markuson
SILVER Star
Orange Hat
SILVER Star
I just received my Slee mount and compressor and will be installing in short order so this is good to know about trimming the fuse box. Good discussion on the switch as well since I plan to keep my switch in the engine compartment (no need for the interior since no plans for lockers). However, I have strung out all the wiring across the dining room table making sense of what goes where and yeah, that is a lot of wiring that I can probably cut out and rewire. I did come across a post on the Tacoma forums about simplifying the wiring if you are going the engine compartment switch route...does this make sense or am I missing something (wiring is not my forte)?
bloc
SILVER Star
I’ll try to get a mirror out and see what I did with mine. I am sure I used even less wiring than is usually posted in the threads about cutting down unnecessary circuits, but don’t recall seeing the one you posted.
I do remember that I just took my small negative for the control circuit from the new splice I installed where the very large wire coming off the battery terminal split into the two large wires for the motors. I just added the small wire in that splice to get it closer to the whole assembly.
Will take a look at my +12v side tomorrow when I get home.
Markuson
SILVER Star
For those considering height, routing, or a manifold….
A manifold inclusion actually helps to lower the hose nozzle.
Here are a few quick shots from a second ago.
Slee installed this one about 5 years ago with manifold, in anticipation of lockers later. Lockers are in now…but regardless, a manifold helps with placement:
Manifold:
Height considerations:
As you can see, there is zero voncern with hood contact.
A manifold inclusion actually helps to lower the hose nozzle.
Here are a few quick shots from a second ago.
Slee installed this one about 5 years ago with manifold, in anticipation of lockers later. Lockers are in now…but regardless, a manifold helps with placement:
Manifold:
Height considerations:
As you can see, there is zero voncern with hood contact.
