Trunk Monkey
Moderator
Put my ARB bull bar on last night, took about 2 hours total. Here's a quick run down, the ARB instructions are a little vague. This is on a '99 Land Cruiser.
1. Disconnect fog lights, they just twist out like a headlamp bulb. The bumper cover is held on by 6 12mm bolts along the bottom lip and 3 plastic clips along the top. I just snapped the back end of the plastic clips off rather than risk breaking the bumper plastic trying to wrestle them out.
2. Lift off the styrofoam piece that's on the cross member. The cross member is held on by 4 19mm bolts from the front end. It just lifts off once it's unbolted.
3. Take the tow hooks off each side.
4. Underneath each headlamp and in the middle are tabs you need to bend slightly to fit the bumper on. Bend the tabs under the headlamps straight down and bend the support in the middle in. ARB says to bend it in 90*, I only went about 45* and had plenty of room.
5. Put the long spacers in each frame horn. Slide the winch cradle/bumper support piece on. The instructions are good here, use a long screwdriver to locate the spacer from the underside and then drop the really long bolts through from the top side. You use the thick spacers that are round with flat sides on the top and bottom here.
6. Slide the frame horn spacers in each side from the back. Round hole goes in first, U-shape down. Fit the tow hooks back on. You can only use the 90* bent OEM tabs, the large hook that was on the PS is too thick for the bolts to fit through. You reuse two of the tow hook bolts and two from the ARB pack. Some of the M14 washers were really tight to fit on the bolts. I made the mistake of using a couple of the large zinc coated washers (there's 6 of them) here since they fit best, but you'll use them later.
7. Tighten everything up to this point.
8. Get the bumper and place it onto the support. The plates on the bumper sit outside of the supports on the frame horns. It should sit on there, leaning into the grill a little. Be careful not to damage or scratch your fenders with the side wings.
9. Now comes the fun. Get 6 of the M14 bolts with lock washers and the large zinc washers ready. The bumper has a lot of play in how it mounts so that you can adjust it to fit your vehicle. You can leave a larger gap between the truck and the bumper or really snug it up. I got the middle bolt started on each side so that I didn't have to worry about the bumper falling off. Then I used one hand to tip the side wing up and located the uppermost bolt on each side. Then I pushed inward and located the lowest bolt. From there I snugged all the bolts up to where I could tap the bumper into position with a rubber mallet. Once it was in place I tightened everything up. You can access the lowest and middle bolts from the gap in the front of the bumper. An 18mm Gearwrench was awesome here. This all would be easier with two people, but it's doable on your own. I left about a fingers width gap between the body and the bumper.
10. Now it's time to "lock" the bumper in place. With all the play in the 6 bolts holding the bumper on, it would probably shift around soon. On the bottom front there are two tabs with holes in them on the bumper that are sitting next to tabs on the support. Using the holes in the bumper tabs you drill through the tabs in the support and bolt the bumper in place.
11. Next I did the indicator lamps. To get the PS light out undo the screw next to the headlamp along the fender. Then, down towards the bottom of the light in the engine bay there's a black tab that's clipped in. Using a flat blade screwdriver press this tab over and the light should slide out. Undo the wiring loom and you'll have 3 wires (green, green w/yellow stripe, black w/yellow stripe). The green is the marker light power. The ARB bulb can't be on all the time serving as a marker light as it's too high of wattage. Some of the 80 series guys have put in a different bulb and use them as markers also. You're going to tap into the green/yellow and black/yellow with the provided Scotchlocks. If you can find t-splice electrical connectors they work much better and seal up cleaner from the elements. They're just like butt connectors but have a blade coming out the middle. Then you put a blade connector on the other end and voila. The ARB wiring came with two odd plastic connectors on them. I pulled them off and used the 2 pin Molex connector provided (dunno why they have them on, the other end of the lights is a 2 pin Molex too). It doesn't matter how you tap the OEM wires, just make sure that the brown wire coming from the splice stays the same through the Molex connector (and the blue wire too).
12. To get the DS lamp out I had to remove the battery to get the to lower tab with the screwdriver. It's the same otherwise. The wires are different (green, green w/gray stripe, black w/yellow stripe), but you'll still tap into the two striped wires.
13. From here on out it's cosmetic. I fitted on the winch cover plate (no winch yet), the rubber bumperettes, and the license plate bracket. I had a fairlead laying around and mounted it up. I was happy to see that you don't have to redrill holes in the fairlead like you do on the 80 series bar. It fits right up. I put my Hella 4000s on (not wired) and they clear the upper bar with plenty of room.
I didn't take pics along the way, it's kinda hard to when you're working by yourself. I'll get some pics of the truck up soon. Hope this all helps someone with their own install.
1. Disconnect fog lights, they just twist out like a headlamp bulb. The bumper cover is held on by 6 12mm bolts along the bottom lip and 3 plastic clips along the top. I just snapped the back end of the plastic clips off rather than risk breaking the bumper plastic trying to wrestle them out.
2. Lift off the styrofoam piece that's on the cross member. The cross member is held on by 4 19mm bolts from the front end. It just lifts off once it's unbolted.
3. Take the tow hooks off each side.
4. Underneath each headlamp and in the middle are tabs you need to bend slightly to fit the bumper on. Bend the tabs under the headlamps straight down and bend the support in the middle in. ARB says to bend it in 90*, I only went about 45* and had plenty of room.
5. Put the long spacers in each frame horn. Slide the winch cradle/bumper support piece on. The instructions are good here, use a long screwdriver to locate the spacer from the underside and then drop the really long bolts through from the top side. You use the thick spacers that are round with flat sides on the top and bottom here.
6. Slide the frame horn spacers in each side from the back. Round hole goes in first, U-shape down. Fit the tow hooks back on. You can only use the 90* bent OEM tabs, the large hook that was on the PS is too thick for the bolts to fit through. You reuse two of the tow hook bolts and two from the ARB pack. Some of the M14 washers were really tight to fit on the bolts. I made the mistake of using a couple of the large zinc coated washers (there's 6 of them) here since they fit best, but you'll use them later.
7. Tighten everything up to this point.
8. Get the bumper and place it onto the support. The plates on the bumper sit outside of the supports on the frame horns. It should sit on there, leaning into the grill a little. Be careful not to damage or scratch your fenders with the side wings.
9. Now comes the fun. Get 6 of the M14 bolts with lock washers and the large zinc washers ready. The bumper has a lot of play in how it mounts so that you can adjust it to fit your vehicle. You can leave a larger gap between the truck and the bumper or really snug it up. I got the middle bolt started on each side so that I didn't have to worry about the bumper falling off. Then I used one hand to tip the side wing up and located the uppermost bolt on each side. Then I pushed inward and located the lowest bolt. From there I snugged all the bolts up to where I could tap the bumper into position with a rubber mallet. Once it was in place I tightened everything up. You can access the lowest and middle bolts from the gap in the front of the bumper. An 18mm Gearwrench was awesome here. This all would be easier with two people, but it's doable on your own. I left about a fingers width gap between the body and the bumper.
10. Now it's time to "lock" the bumper in place. With all the play in the 6 bolts holding the bumper on, it would probably shift around soon. On the bottom front there are two tabs with holes in them on the bumper that are sitting next to tabs on the support. Using the holes in the bumper tabs you drill through the tabs in the support and bolt the bumper in place.
11. Next I did the indicator lamps. To get the PS light out undo the screw next to the headlamp along the fender. Then, down towards the bottom of the light in the engine bay there's a black tab that's clipped in. Using a flat blade screwdriver press this tab over and the light should slide out. Undo the wiring loom and you'll have 3 wires (green, green w/yellow stripe, black w/yellow stripe). The green is the marker light power. The ARB bulb can't be on all the time serving as a marker light as it's too high of wattage. Some of the 80 series guys have put in a different bulb and use them as markers also. You're going to tap into the green/yellow and black/yellow with the provided Scotchlocks. If you can find t-splice electrical connectors they work much better and seal up cleaner from the elements. They're just like butt connectors but have a blade coming out the middle. Then you put a blade connector on the other end and voila. The ARB wiring came with two odd plastic connectors on them. I pulled them off and used the 2 pin Molex connector provided (dunno why they have them on, the other end of the lights is a 2 pin Molex too). It doesn't matter how you tap the OEM wires, just make sure that the brown wire coming from the splice stays the same through the Molex connector (and the blue wire too).
12. To get the DS lamp out I had to remove the battery to get the to lower tab with the screwdriver. It's the same otherwise. The wires are different (green, green w/gray stripe, black w/yellow stripe), but you'll still tap into the two striped wires.
13. From here on out it's cosmetic. I fitted on the winch cover plate (no winch yet), the rubber bumperettes, and the license plate bracket. I had a fairlead laying around and mounted it up. I was happy to see that you don't have to redrill holes in the fairlead like you do on the 80 series bar. It fits right up. I put my Hella 4000s on (not wired) and they clear the upper bar with plenty of room.
I didn't take pics along the way, it's kinda hard to when you're working by yourself. I'll get some pics of the truck up soon. Hope this all helps someone with their own install.
