ewillis
SILVER Star
Looking at spraying my undercarriage down with Fluid Film to try and curb rock salt damage during the winter months. Anyone had any results trying the same thing?
Anyone Use Fluid Film or Boeshield on Undercarriage??
- Thread starter ewillis
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
I use fluid film on mine and it seems to do a good job. Somebody also suggested corrosion-x, but I haven't tried it yet.
Don't get the fluid film on your exhaust, wow does that stink...trust me...
Don't get the fluid film on your exhaust, wow does that stink...trust me...
Fluid film goes on easily, but I have found it doesn't last very long on the undercarriage. I use it for bolts, hinges, locksets, etc. but I've switched over to Waxoyl Black Hardwax from Rovers North for the undercarriage. No sign of deteriation after 12 months of New England abuse.
I use Corrosion X heavy duty. Works good. Time for another application before this winter. Holds up well even with new england wheeling and frequent under carraige wash's. About $15 a spray can on ebay. One can did most of the rust prone areas. I would say two can do everything under the 80.
I want to use something on my 80 since it spends nearly every day parked on the beaches of the atlantic ocean! That'll rust you out FAST. And now I'm getting desperate because I found my first rust bubble coming out if the windshield trim. 
It's tiny, only like a couple of match heads together, but they say that usually means there's more. I'm thinking of having a body shop pull both front and rear glass soon and clean that up.
I put some FF on the front end and diff to try it out but the sand scrubs it right off some areas and cakes up on it in others. I'm thinking of just spraying used motor oil on everything.
It's tiny, only like a couple of match heads together, but they say that usually means there's more. I'm thinking of having a body shop pull both front and rear glass soon and clean that up. I put some FF on the front end and diff to try it out but the sand scrubs it right off some areas and cakes up on it in others. I'm thinking of just spraying used motor oil on everything.
I recommend corrosion block. It's designed to protect metal in marine saltwater environments and works amazingly well!
http://www.corrosionblock.com/products/corrosion-block.html
http://www.corrosionblock.com/products/corrosion-block.html
I'm about to embark on a rust preventative/inhibitor adventure as well.
How does POR15 rank as far as rust preventative/neutralizer? My under carriage is a little crusty (no rot, just some surface junk) and I'd like to keep it from getting worse. I've heard some good stories about POR15 but just want to hear what fellow Mudders think.
How does POR15 rank as far as rust preventative/neutralizer? My under carriage is a little crusty (no rot, just some surface junk) and I'd like to keep it from getting worse. I've heard some good stories about POR15 but just want to hear what fellow Mudders think.
ewillis
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #9
From what I have read, Por 15 is one of the best, but also requires the most surface prep. It seems like the Corrosion X or fluid film stops the rust from spreading and protects from future rust. Seems like the best choice for minimal surface rust like my truck has. I just ordered 3 cans of the Fluid Film and will apply it to prone areas and see how it works.
Good to know. I'll do some more research on the POR15. Keep us posted regarding your experience with the Corrosion X
POR15 is just paint, never had anyone i know have good luck with it. If you really want to make a chassis last, give it a good cleaning, including flushing all of the crap out of the frame, and waxoyl it inside and out with the clear wax and black wax.
I used POR-15 on our Sequoia a few years ago and it has held up OK. I have been playing with Gempler's rust converter lately and the POR seems to be better but needs more prep.
For existing chassis surface rust consider Rust Bullet. Easier prep and application than POR15 (though it does need 2 coats). Topcoat the Rust Bullet if the part will be in the sun, as it does not have UV protection. I started using it a decade ago with decent results.
Zip codes beginning with 87 an 88 are also fairly good at combatting rust......
We could report a series of low rust zip codes.
lrowe_csp
Too many cruisers, not enough time
I have used aerosol spray Fluid Film inside an FJ40 tailgate, seems to have completely stopped rust in that confined space and would probably work really well in the voids and spaces in the frame, but it is a soft coat and I do not think it would stay on very long on an exposed section of the frame rails. The POR 15 I applied on the chassis of that same vehicle seems to be very durable, but the boyz at IPOR tell me horror stories about the POR masking serious corrosion- not my experience yet, but they see a lot of cruisers in their shop over the course of a year. If you do use POR 15, you should also consider the topcote to prevent UV fade.
crushers
post ho
POS15 is a rubberized paint.
a bitch to work with
rusts underneath with no way to repair short of grinding
DO NOT APPLY WITHOUT PROPER MASK
do not get on pecker ... do a search back near the beginning of the century. funny thread can be found.
Krown
Ziebart
any wax based product
oil is corrosive to paint so don't apply used oil.
Krown is my personal favorite.
a bitch to work with
rusts underneath with no way to repair short of grinding
DO NOT APPLY WITHOUT PROPER MASK
do not get on pecker ... do a search back near the beginning of the century. funny thread can be found.
Krown
Ziebart
any wax based product
oil is corrosive to paint so don't apply used oil.
Krown is my personal favorite.
I've used Corrosion X, and it does work well. It does appear grimy when applied, and it needs annual reapplication in the Northeast.
I disagree with what's been said about POR15, and the similar products (Eastwood's stuff, Magnet Paints Chassis Saver, Ect.). They're all from a family of paints called moisture curing urethanes, and honestly they're the toughest thing you can get in a single stage (meaning not mixed with a hardener).
The problem I often see regarding these types of paints is lack of surface prep, not failure of the product itself. I suspect it's psychological... people think because they're painting over rust that they can skip surface prep, when if you were painting a set of wheels for example you would never think to skip preparation.
If you fully encapsulate the surface, then the product will work without a doubt. If there's an area where air and moisture can creep behind the finished surface then it will fail.
Long story short, if you're willing to devote the time to do proper surface prep, then Chassis Saver (only because it's cheaper than POR) is an excellent product for long term protection. If not (and this is the correct catagory for most of us) then the aerosol based products are probably the best bet.
I disagree with what's been said about POR15, and the similar products (Eastwood's stuff, Magnet Paints Chassis Saver, Ect.). They're all from a family of paints called moisture curing urethanes, and honestly they're the toughest thing you can get in a single stage (meaning not mixed with a hardener).
The problem I often see regarding these types of paints is lack of surface prep, not failure of the product itself. I suspect it's psychological... people think because they're painting over rust that they can skip surface prep, when if you were painting a set of wheels for example you would never think to skip preparation.
If you fully encapsulate the surface, then the product will work without a doubt. If there's an area where air and moisture can creep behind the finished surface then it will fail.
Long story short, if you're willing to devote the time to do proper surface prep, then Chassis Saver (only because it's cheaper than POR) is an excellent product for long term protection. If not (and this is the correct catagory for most of us) then the aerosol based products are probably the best bet.
Good to know about the pecker....
