Anyone use a rust converter ? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Np5811
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I've used RustMort and various other products that are essentially phosphoric acid in water. I seemed to get much faster results when I left the item in the sun, so it might not work as well in a winter garage. I also usually left parts submerged in it, but I do know it works when brushed on or wiped on with a rag.
I've Rust-Oleum rust converter, which goes on black, and Rust Fix (Duplicolor, I think), which goes on clear. Both seem to work fine.
If I were doing the whole underside, I'd probably try using a garden sprayer to spray on phosphoric acid diluted with warm water. For degreasing beforehand, TSP is pretty amazing.
I've Rust-Oleum rust converter, which goes on black, and Rust Fix (Duplicolor, I think), which goes on clear. Both seem to work fine.
If I were doing the whole underside, I'd probably try using a garden sprayer to spray on phosphoric acid diluted with warm water. For degreasing beforehand, TSP is pretty amazing.
- Thread starter
- #23
Well I’m taking my time and putting in the prep work so I have a little bit of optimizim that my labor will hold up a few years
Coincidentally, while catching up on SV Seeker on Youtube, I saw that he's going over the results of a one year test in a salt water bath. The beginning of the video talks about rust removal.
Obviously coal tar isn't likely to be your choice of protective layers, but the POR15 results are pretty amazing.
Also, I had a look at the MSDS for Klean Strip Prep-n-Etch and it's 35-45% phosphoric acid. I'd consider cutting it half-and-half with water and applying it with a spray bottle. Wear old clothes and take a shower afterwards.
Obviously coal tar isn't likely to be your choice of protective layers, but the POR15 results are pretty amazing.
Also, I had a look at the MSDS for Klean Strip Prep-n-Etch and it's 35-45% phosphoric acid. I'd consider cutting it half-and-half with water and applying it with a spray bottle. Wear old clothes and take a shower afterwards.
- Thread starter
- #25
Coincidentally, while catching up on SV Seeker on Youtube, I saw that he's going over the results of a one year test in a salt water bath. The beginning of the video talks about rust removal.
Obviously coal tar isn't likely to be your choice of protective layers, but the POR15 results are pretty amazing.
Also, I had a look at the MSDS for Klean Strip Prep-n-Etch and it's 35-45% phosphoric acid. I'd consider cutting it half-and-half with water and applying it with a spray bottle. Wear old clothes and take a shower afterwards.
Klein strip directions for rust removal say to apply with a spray bottle or pump sprayer at full strength
Apply it however you want. I would reduce it to around 20%.
HDJdreams
SILVER Star
Just tried the stuff from Harbor Freight, was pleasantly surprised.
- Thread starter
- #30
Hey I used your method I sprayed it down with that Klein etch acid and let it sit for 24 hours and then I rinsed it down I still have a lot of white residue
Does that white residue come off if you wipe it or is it part of the end process?
I've used corroseal on a trailer with very good results. It neutralizes/converts the rust into a hard black surface that is inert and paintable.
I love this stuff, came up on the FJ40 site, now I swear by it. Master Series Silver
MasterSeriesCT Coating Line Rust Prevention - MasterSeriesCT
I did a scrambler with all the products from Eastwood. We are in the process of fixing all the rust issues AGAIN. Yeah I did no do a great paint job, but still.
We did my 1962 FJ40 with this Master Series Silver, where we used it no rust issues. We also used it on my son's 1968 bronco and it also has no rust issues where we used it. And we are 200 yards from the Atlantic Ocean and everything is always covered in salt spray, no garage. Wood will rust here.
Here is the real kicker for me, this is from the instructions
MCU silver/stainless are designed to be painted over marginally prepared surfaces
"marginally prepared" that had my name written all over it!!! We wire brushed everything we could cleaned and made sure it was dry with no flaking rust, 3 coats and a top coat 2k primer, although unlike POR15, this stuff is UV stable. It dries almost like alluminum, it is a moisture cure paint like the others, so it does not dissolve or remove the rust, it sucks all the moisture out effectively stopping it from rusting any more. Same concept as por15 and others. But those require so much work to prep the metal, you might was well make the metal rust free and put a 2k primer on it. por15 will fail if the metal is not 100% prepared to their specifications and top coats really do not like sticking to it. If you are OCD probably a good product, but an OCD person would remove all the rust not treat it.
MasterSeriesCT Coating Line Rust Prevention - MasterSeriesCT
I did a scrambler with all the products from Eastwood. We are in the process of fixing all the rust issues AGAIN. Yeah I did no do a great paint job, but still.
We did my 1962 FJ40 with this Master Series Silver, where we used it no rust issues. We also used it on my son's 1968 bronco and it also has no rust issues where we used it. And we are 200 yards from the Atlantic Ocean and everything is always covered in salt spray, no garage. Wood will rust here.
Here is the real kicker for me, this is from the instructions
MCU silver/stainless are designed to be painted over marginally prepared surfaces
"marginally prepared" that had my name written all over it!!! We wire brushed everything we could cleaned and made sure it was dry with no flaking rust, 3 coats and a top coat 2k primer, although unlike POR15, this stuff is UV stable. It dries almost like alluminum, it is a moisture cure paint like the others, so it does not dissolve or remove the rust, it sucks all the moisture out effectively stopping it from rusting any more. Same concept as por15 and others. But those require so much work to prep the metal, you might was well make the metal rust free and put a 2k primer on it. por15 will fail if the metal is not 100% prepared to their specifications and top coats really do not like sticking to it. If you are OCD probably a good product, but an OCD person would remove all the rust not treat it.
The white residue is ferric phosphate (translation may not be accurate) and results from combining phosphoric acid with rust. It is poorly attached to the base and must be brushed out, else the paint will not stick properly to the substratum. However, the phosphoric acid treatment is widely used in metal boats as it is a real rust remover, by contrast to conventional rust converters. Subsequent adherence of the paint coat to the de-rusted metal will be very good. It works also as a temporary repair where not immediate intervention is possible or desirable.
Cheers,
Cutrex
Cheers,
Cutrex
- Thread starter
- #35
What about just oiling or fluid filming over everything now the the rust is neutralized , tbh I don’t really care how it looks I just don’t want rot
In fact, a penetrating, sealing coat is usually specified after phosphoric acid to serve as a primer. Google 'Amerlock Sealer' (2-component system) or 'Owatrol oil' (1-component). I use the latter for simple repairs. For sure there will be an equivalent in the US market.
Cutrex
That's what I was thinking. Just coat it with something like film fluid after that process. Anything to stop and prevent anymore rust. Rust really sucks and makes me sad -;(
I'm currently using Eastwood for my under carrage. Still have to re apply every year at around $50 or less a qt. shipped.
The Master series is almost $90. shipped. Do you see it as a one time application so far?
Meh! That last photo... Nothing a little Bondo won't fix, eh?
i used that stuff at work and did not like it i found this Klean Strip | Rust Remover and works super fast and works on heavy rust
