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I received my IPF 351HLB2 - 9005 High Beam Bulbs and IPF 301WAM - T10 Marker Bulb today and got them installed. Thought I would share some photos and feedback!

DRL's Only - The IPF do function in DRL mode. They are significantly dimmed but there is zero flicker. They are rock solid.

33275107668_9f8828b06d_k.jpg


Low Beams On - Parking lights illuminate as expected. If you look at the beam projected on the plastic lens you can see a gap in the light and two seperate beams from each LED on either side of the "bulb". As far as the illumination thrown on the road or what you see projected on a wall in front of the truck this is not evident. The light appears continuous and uniform across the beam pattern.
47150424701_a5712d1d17_k.jpg


High Beams - Both the Low Beams and Parking Lights remain illuminated, this is stock behavior for the LX
33275107548_a3ef806d1f_k.jpg


Parking Lights Only - These things are bright, they actually throw enough light that they lit up my garage during the daytime. They seem to throw as much or maybe even more light that the Highbeams in DRL mode.
33275107178_f85a5c4aa2_k.jpg



So there you have it, hope that was helpful and answered some questions. I'll follow up if anything changes or I notice any flickering of the DRL's but so far, very very pleased.

Excited to go for a drive tonight and see the combined output of the Low and High Beam LED's!
 
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I just installed the IPF 351HLBs in my 2013 high beam locations, and initial impression is that I don't like them as much as my previous Philips 9011 HIR bulbs. I put a HIR back in and had 1v1 against the garage door.. the HIR seemed to produce slightly more light, albeit much more "halogen light" color. Also it was a more uniform beam.

I'll give them some more time but may be throwing the 9011s back in my high beams.
 
I just installed the IPF 351HLBs in my 2013 high beam locations, and initial impression is that I don't like them as much as my previous Philips 9011 HIR bulbs. I put a HIR back in and had 1v1 against the garage door.. the HIR seemed to produce slightly more light, albeit much more "halogen light" color. Also it was a more uniform beam.

I'll give them some more time but may be throwing the 9011s back in my high beams.

You may try rotating the bulbs 45 degrees in their housings, this greatly improved the uniformity of the beam for me. As delivered the LED’s were horizontal to the ground, after rotating they are perpendicular to the ground.

There should be a tiny Allen wrench in the box to adjust them.

My basis of comparison is only the stock bulbs which were awful. Even before playing with the orientation of the bulb it was a huge improvement.
 
You may try rotating the bulbs 45 degrees in their housings, this greatly improved the uniformity of the beam for me. As delivered the LED’s were horizontal to the ground, after rotating they are perpendicular to the ground.

There should be a tiny Allen wrench in the box to adjust them.

My basis of comparison is only the stock bulbs which were awful. Even before playing with the orientation of the bulb it was a huge improvement.

Thanks for the tip. I did notice the wrench and the picture part of the Japanese instructions.. I figured it was just for a different format of light fitment, didn’t occur to me that procedure might help with the beam.
 
Thanks for the tip. I did notice the wrench and the picture part of the Japanese instructions.. I figured it was just for a different format of light fitment, didn’t occur to me that procedure might help with the beam.

It is important to orient the LED arrays so that they emit directly to the sides. The housing should be perpendicular to the ground - as in this pic:

IPFLED5_22DEC17_zpscx7aofrw.jpg


HTH
 
It is important to orient the LED arrays so that they emit directly to the sides. The housing should be perpendicular to the ground - as in this pic:

IPFLED5_22DEC17_zpscx7aofrw.jpg


HTH
That is how I have mine..
 
It is important to orient the LED arrays so that they emit directly to the sides. The housing should be perpendicular to the ground - as in this pic:

IPFLED5_22DEC17_zpscx7aofrw.jpg


HTH

That's how mine were aligned stock. And how I still have my low beams aligned. But I found that rotating them 45 degrees seemed to yielded a tighter beam and farther throw distance. Since my low beams remain on with the high-beams and they have a nice wide spread and solid throw distance I didn't feel like I was compromising my field of view. I'd welcome anyone with the same LED's to try adjusting theirs and post their feedback, it only takes a couple minutes to rotate them. I put mine into the housing with the allen bolt loose so I could rotate them with the lights on and see how it impacted the beam and throw distance. I haven't had an opportunity to try them out on the highway or much real world use. This was the result of a few minutes of tinkering on an open stretch of road in my neighborhood so take that with a grain of salt and go with what produces the best results for you.
 
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Been reading the thread and seeing lots of options from Philips to IPF to Hikari and ranging from 3000 lumens to 5000. I'm looking at these guys from Lumen. The details say the LED is actually made by Philips. It's 4000 lumens and has very high reviews. Anyone have experience with these or see an issue?



1911012



Note that it also says the beam angle is 360 degrees. Does that mean the orientation of the light fixture may not matter as much as what was mentioned earlier in this thread that you should be sure the light emits to each side in order to reflect well?

1911013
 
Here's a good review of the Hikaris:

 
IPFs are sooo ridiculously bright that I light up the whole highway at night. Even semi's think I have my brights on.

You are running the 5000 lumen lights if I remember correctly, right? I'm leaning towards a 4000 lumen light, which will still be more than a 100% improvement in brightness over the approximately 1,500 lumen stock halogens on my 2009 LC.

Stupid question - I've read the thread and seem to still be confused about this dust cap issue. Is that only an issue on LX570's or is there a risk than an upgraded LED bulb assembly won't fit in a 2009 LC. I'm still considering the Lumen set that I posted above.

TIA.
 
You are running the 5000 lumen lights if I remember correctly, right? I'm leaning towards a 4000 lumen light, which will still be more than a 100% improvement in brightness over the approximately 1,500 lumen stock halogens on my 2009 LC.

Stupid question - I've read the thread and seem to still be confused about this dust cap issue. Is that only an issue on LX570's or is there a risk than an upgraded LED bulb assembly won't fit in a 2009 LC. I'm still considering the Lumen set that I posted above.

TIA.

Only an issue for the 570 as they have leveling/steering headlights.
 
Only an issue for the 570 as they have leveling/steering headlights.

Thanks. I'm now thinking about going with the Hikari but these ones rated at 12,000 lumens make me think oncoming traffic will feel like they're staring into the Sun...

1912697



Hikari has a 9600 lumen version that are significantly cheaper for some reason.... $37 vs. $90.

Anyone have experience with the cheaper ones which also have fantastic reviews?

1912698
 
I switched my high beams to Hikaris today. I added some in line “led conversion” adapters to prevent flicker and it actually prevents DRL function all together. Not sure why.

Anyways, all the lumens! Here is a video
 
I switched my high beams to Hikaris today. I added some in line “led conversion” adapters to prevent flicker and it actually prevents DRL function all together. Not sure why.

Anyways, all the lumens! Here is a video

They look good! Is the installation of additional adapters required for these Hikaris otherwise they will flicker? Everything I see and read seems to indicate that it's essentially a 1:1 swap and just plug the new lights into the existing wiring harness/port.
 
They look good! Is the installation of additional adapters required for these Hikaris otherwise they will flicker? Everything I see and read seems to indicate that it's essentially a 1:1 swap and just plug the new lights into the existing wiring harness/port.

I only got the harness for the high beams because of others who had experienced Flicker. My fogs and low beams were plug and play.
 
Oh well...took the plunge! Just arrived from Amazon (US). Plan to get them installed in the next 1-2 weeks.

H11 Low Beams, HB3/9005 High Beam...



1917415
 
I received my IPF 351HLB2 - 9005 High Beam Bulbs and IPF 301WAM - T10 Marker Bulb today and got them installed. Thought I would share some photos and feedback!

DRL's Only - The IPF do function in DRL mode. They are significantly dimmed but there is zero flicker. They are rock solid.

33275107668_9f8828b06d_k.jpg


Low Beams On - Parking lights illuminate as expected. If you look at the beam projected on the plastic lens you can see a gap in the light and two seperate beams from each LED on either side of the "bulb". As far as the illumination thrown on the road or what you see projected on a wall in front of the truck this is not evident. The light appears continuous and uniform across the beam pattern.
47150424701_a5712d1d17_k.jpg


High Beams - Both the Low Beams and Parking Lights remain illuminated, this is stock behavior for the LX
33275107548_a3ef806d1f_k.jpg


Parking Lights Only - These things are bright, they actually throw enough light that they lit up my garage during the daytime. They seem to throw as much or maybe even more light that the Highbeams in DRL mode.
33275107178_f85a5c4aa2_k.jpg



So there you have it, hope that was helpful and answered some questions. I'll follow up if anything changes or I notice any flickering of the DRL's but so far, very very pleased.

Excited to go for a drive tonight and see the combined output of the Low and High Beam LED's!

Following up on the IPF’s. The driver side LED has failed. Both LEDs illuminate, but only just, you could t even use them as a weak flashlight. Fan runs, verified voltage, reinstalled stock halogen bulb. Not a problem with the vehicle just a failed IPF LED.

I also started having AFS errors. I tried routing my cables slightly differently making sure there was a free range of motion. It would only happen when it was extremely cold and during my tinkering I realized the tail coming out of the IPFs is a bit stiff, but when temps drop into the single digits and below they become damn near rigid. Never had an error on warm days, and when temps plummeted I would get errors.

A bit bummed out given the cost of the bulbs but hey, now I’ll get to do a side by side comparison of the Hikari vs IPF once the Amazon fairy arrives!
 
Any issues with DRL flicker?
Only with DRL and only when there is a power draw elsewhere when at idle, for example, stepping on/off brake pedal or A/C cycling. Seems at idle the DRL circuit gets just enough power (in a 2011) to run the DRLs but occasionally will produce a flicker. I have heard that '08, '09 and maybe '10 have trouble running the LED as DRLs, not enough current to fire the LED ballast.
 

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