Anyone had this cruise control problem? (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Apr 12, 2005
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Location
Seattle, WA
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www.4wdtoyotaowner.com
Set cruise control (usually about 70mph) and it turns off when using the turn signal? Never did this before..though I did put in new rear tailights. Any ideas?
 
Can't tell you for sure, but the cruise it designed to cut off when the brakes/brake lights are activated. So, I'd start by checking the bulbs/grounds etc. at the tailight housing.
 
IDENTICAL to my problem...interestingly, hook the trailer up behind it and it works fine....

I also switched rear taillights and front turn signals....LED's and crystal's from MOT...

did you just replace bulbs or the whole assembly?

I believe it's a resistance change that causes it....just haven't figgered out a cure yet...
 
Ive seen this happen on other vehicle's when switching to LEDs. I think the issue is that with a regular bulb, the circuit rests at ground since the ground feeds back through the bulb when the lights are not on. Then it goes to 12v when the pedal is pressed. My guess it that the CC module does not detect the rest state of the circuit as well without that ground.What I did to remedy this on my old truck was to solder in a really small bulb holder and hide it in the fender with a bulb in it. Fixed the problem. Not the most scientific, but it worked. Another way would be to use a resistor of some sort.
 
Exactly my problem. It goes off and after a restart, it goes on again. I have since fixed it. Two things you need to do:
1. Make sure your brake fluid is full...this affects the cruiser control.
2. Don't ask me why. But I took off the cruiser control box top ( the black plastic lid in the engine bay). I then moved the cruiser control cable assembly within the box back and forth about 20 times) This advice came from CDan.
It has worked ever since.
airlaird
 
note tho, the turn signal is a yellow standard 12v bulb, only the brake/rear running lights are LED...the front turn is still a yellow standard 12v bulb too.

doesn't matter if the lights are on or off...still happens

happens with either right turn, left turn, or hazard switch...

does NOT happen when my car trailer is hooked up (additional resistance)

wonder if changing the flasher out would do it....is the Toyota one a normal round dealio or some specific electronic gizmo?
 
Oh boy!!!:frown:
Dave has the LED's from me, too!!!

When Dave told me about his problem I was hoping that his was an isolated issue not related directly to the lights since I had not heard of the problem with them from any other guys that I had sold them to before. But that does not seem to be the case.:frown:

I wish I had a remedy for this :frown:
But/And I'm hoping that the suggestions that have been made would work for you guys.

Seriously, hope you can get it worked out!!!

Mot :fingers crossed: :)
 
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I wonder if the yellow bulb itself is different enough to warrant replacing with something from the local parts store instead of the "overseas" ones included in the boxes....one more thing to try...
 
Woody, it was the whole assembly and the imported bulbs. A guy at a dealership who knows his stuff said to check the bulb, too. Maybe that's it. The other tips are good, too. Thank you!

For the record, I LOVE MOT'S STUFF!!! His service is impeccable and I would/will buy from him again in a heartbeat!

Dave
 
4WD Toyota Owner Magazine said:
For the record, I LOVE MOT'S STUFF!!! His service is impeccable and I would/will buy from him again in a heartbeat!



Thanks, Dave! :crybaby:

I will have to contact my vendor to confirm of this so people may not have to suffer/wonder in the future.

Thanks again!

Yours,

Mot
 
just replaced all 4 with 1156A's....supposed to rain tomorrow, so maybe I'll actually take the 80 and test 'er out ;)
 
You all suck, atleast you can use cruise atleast part of the time. I still haven't found my problem, but then again, I haven't tried to find the ECU for it to continue trouble shooting it.
 
well, that idear bombed....hit the freeway this morning, set the cruise, and as soon as I hit the turn signals, the cruise cut out...

next plan is to swap back to the original taillights and be doubly sure that the new ones are causing the issue....

then what? I'm thinkin the resistance wire inline is probably the "correct" fix for it...hhhmmm


google search info:
http://www.watsons-streetworks.com/helpful_tip_talkin_taillights.html
http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/cars/msg020954557068.html?4
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=753499 discusses a possible cruise control specific for LED systems...

Q: Will the Audiovox CCS-100 electronic cruise control work with LED brake lights?

A: YES. However, if you have ONLY LED’s for your brake lights, it will be necessary to add a SPDT relay to the circuit between the brake light switch and the cruise servo. The cruise is grounded through the brake light bulb. This ground is “broken” when the brake is applied (bulb lights) and this is what cancels the cruise. Since current will only flow one way through an LED, no ground is seen by the servo and the unit will not work. The relay will bypass the brake light, providing ground to the servo for normal operation, but will cause the ground circuit to open when the brake is applied, thereby canceling the cruise. If you have a combination of incandescent bulbs and LED’s in the brake lamp circuit, a relay should not be needed but can still be used if desired.

Possible cruise control problem with LED tail lights

With regard to the LED tail lights featured in the March issue, you refer to the brake light out sensors giving incorrect readings if these are used. There is another piece of automotive equipment which may be adversely affected by the LED tail light replacements, namely cruise control (CC).

Many cruise control units use the brake pedal and stop lamp globes to sense when the brakes of the car have been applied, disengaging the CC unit. They use the cold resistance of the globes to take a sensing input to ground which allows the CC to be engaged. When the brakes are applied, this input goes to +12V as the lamps light, disengaging the CC.

If all the globes are replaced with LED units, the CC may not work as the input might not "see" a low resistance to chassis.

In regards to "lamp out" sensors and CCs, probably the best solution is to fit small globes in parallel with the LEDs and hide them inside the car. The rating of the lamp would be selected to allow for these sensors to work but this tends to defeat the purpose of the exercise (except for the faster turn on time of the LEDs).


https://secure4.vivid-design.com.au...orumid=11&messageid=1579&ForumName=Automotive
 
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woody said:
note tho, the turn signal is a yellow standard 12v bulb, only the brake/rear running lights are LED...the front turn is still a yellow standard 12v bulb too.

doesn't matter if the lights are on or off...still happens

happens with either right turn, left turn, or hazard switch...

This where it's losing me. I understand the general info about the different ground states, etc, but if it is the TURN signal that is doing it, and it uses a "normal" 12V bulb...why the problem?
 
IMO, it's gotta be something with the grounding of the LED bulbs...perhaps the completed circuit for the turn signal (on the same ground) is pushing enuf load thru the LED's to not activate them but cause the Cruise to read the signal...

guessing here...but I may "hot wire" in a bulb to JUST the trailer brake circuit (ie: hitch light) and see if that magically cures it...
 
The cruise ECU is probably "seeing" a brake pedal application for some reason.
 
cruiserdan said:
The cruise ECU is probably "seeing" a brake pedal application for some reason.

Ya think? Put a little bulb in there guys. I'm tellin you. It'll fix it.
 
I've contacted the vendor and they told me that they would try to find out a remedy from the manufacturer, but told me it might take a while. :frown:

I guess for the time being, putting in a little bulb might be the easiest solution???:hillbilly: One bulb would do it or would you need another for the other side? I'm guessing one would do the trick.

I wish I had something better to say, but GOOD LUCK!:crybaby:

Mot
 
I will check mine this weekend, but it has me thinking. I didn't use the amber bulb for the blinkers I just plugged in the old socket with old bulb so I most likely don't have the problem. I don't think it has anything to do with the led portion because the blinker is still and incadesant (sp) It must have something to doo with the new bulbs, but will test this theory later. I was going to just get some silverstar blinker bulbs so that there was no egg yoke look to the rear lights.
 
I have heard back from another Mudder with the LED rears and he told me he's never had any problems with his cruise control.

He even took it out to test it in various combinations of with parking lights on, low beams on, high beams on, left turn signal, right turn signal, and emergency flashers, but his cruise control stayed engaged perfectly.

Anyway, who knows???

Mot :confused:
 

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