Anybody regret going with 35's?

[cruiser99]

Since I do not to hold information from you guys…

Having said all of that, and being a superficial whit male, I just replaced the A/T 315 with M/T 315. The truck actually feels better since it lost the side to side vibes after hitting a pot hole. I attribute it the stiffer side wall but don’t know for fact. Also on the rocks the abrupt traction loss and sudden wheel spin up is all but gone.

I also agree with most of you that said no 4.88 no 315. Your transmission will thank you for that.

Since I have 4 extra wheels (looking for the 5th), I will install 285 on and use them for the long distance stuff.

 

[cruiser99]

Don't have vibe issue as well after the regear

 

[hoser]

It is likely a pinion angle issue that was not apparant befor the reagear, as the speed you would have had to travel to get the driveshaft rpms that high prior to the regear was too fast for average driving. It should be cured by some adjustable rear upper control arms, like christo has for the 80 series (not sure if they fit 100s).

That makes sense. The vibration is not terrible, just noticeable. I'm curious about your fuel mileage with 4.88's and 33's versus 35's. Did you find yourself cruising slower with the 33's because of the higher engine RPM?

 

[spressomon]

I have run 4.88's in mine for almost 2 years and about 30k miles. I ran 33's with them and loved it. I recently went up to 35's and all is still great. I have bullbar/winch, heavy drawer storage, sliders, etc. no rear bumper and i also tow a 5500 lb boat regularly.

Hoser & Spressomon
I have no gear noise or vibes, but have experienced vibes in trucks after regearing due to more rpms on the driveshafts. It is likely a pinion angle issue that was not apparant befor the reagear, as the speed you would have had to travel to get the driveshaft rpms that high prior to the regear was too fast for average driving. It should be cured by some adjustable rear upper control arms, like christo has for the 80 series (not sure if they fit 100s). With ome 863's is kinda like J-springs on the 80's and sometimes need pinion angle adjusted slightly.

Driveline angles did not change when I did the 4.88 conversion. However I replaced all front bearings, races, seals, CV axles, rear axle bearings, seals plus the pair of R&P, the front ARB locker & 315 MT/R's (from 285 MT/R's) and all four u-joints (all parts sans the R&P & locker are OEM Toyota). I have removed the front drive shaft and driven it...and 95% of the noise and vibration/buzz is gone. Now I have to pull the rear shaft and try it that way to try to narrow it down. I suspect the u-joints...but nothing more than a hunch right now. The noise is a low level rumble that oscillilates...just like a worn u-joint from past experience with GM's. And the noise and vibe comes and goes in intensity...it is not always at the same dB or RPM range necessarily. One of the LC experts on this forum said they have trouble with lifted 80's now and then...some of these rigs run smooth and silent after driveline changes (lift and/or regear) and some don't.

 

[e9999]

here is the peanut gallery (me ):

I find it surprising to read that there would be a big difference in how often one would get stuck or high-centered because of a 1" difference in ground clearance having gone from 33s to 35s... this would be a trail where all the rocks all have the exact same height that happens to fit exactly between the 2 ground clearances?

 

[ShottsUZJ100]

here is the peanut gallery (me ):

I find it surprising to read that there would be a big difference in how often one would get stuck or high-centered because of a 1" difference in ground clearance having gone from 33s to 35s... this would be a trail where all the rocks all have the exact same height that happens to fit exactly between the 2 ground clearances?

We see this in AZ all the time. Not just the 1" added tire height but even on trails where someone's running 24PSI vs 15PSI with the same lift and tires.

That little bit grabs the diff and/or control arm mounts often. AZ ROCKS!

 

[spressomon]

here is the peanut gallery (me ):

I find it surprising to read that there would be a big difference in how often one would get stuck or high-centered because of a 1" difference in ground clearance having gone from 33s to 35s... this would be a trail where all the rocks all have the exact same height that happens to fit exactly between the 2 ground clearances?

Don't kill the messenger...I just call 'em like I see 'em. And the difference is real and noticeable. This is one aspect where John & I agree

 

[spressomon]

Let me put in another way...if I could get all my money back and then some for my labor I would leave it exactly as it is today. No way would I go back, given how and where I use my rig, to stock gearing and 33"'s. It was a gamble and an experiment on my part as at that time there were only 2-others that I was aware of that had done the 4.88/35" conversion on a 100 (at lease stateside).

But again, for others asking about this and/or seriously considering the change and like several of us continue to harp: It's all about application! If you do not have an application for ANY mod...leave well enough alone.

 

[e9999]

Don't kill the messenger...I just call 'em like I see 'em. And the difference is real and noticeable. This is one aspect where John & I agree

the latter part is interesting and food for thought , but that aside, what about the 1" do you think is causing this huge difference in getting stuck or not, exactly?

 

[cruiser99]

the latter part is interesting and food for thought , but that aside, what about the 1" do you think is causing this huge difference in getting stuck or not, exactly?

The world is not flat. Practically you could get almost 2” chassis height difference. The smaller tire sinks into the “holes” deeper.

 

[spressomon]

The world is not flat. Practically you could get almost 2” chassis height difference. The smaller tire sinks into the “holes” deeper.

Ditto. And although I don't want to jinx myself...I haven't gotten my rig stuck with the 35".

I will add one more caveat to the 4.88/35" discussion: When pulling my AT Horizon the stock effective gearing is even more of a postive. And last month I was in an area with my trailer (on-trail) where I had to climb a very steep, rutted and loose slope to get back to where I was going to camp I am 99% positive I would not have been able to pull, even in 4Lolo, with the sotck 4.3/33" combo up this particular grade. And having said that I would STILL like to have a lower 4LoLo gear!

 

[wngrog]

(looking for the 5th)

16 or 18? I have (2) 18's....

 

[ShottsUZJ100]

The world is not flat. Practically you could get almost 2” chassis height difference. The smaller tire sinks into the “holes” deeper.

Absolutely.....the 35 sticks out forward an inch, lower an inch and to the rear an inch more. On challenging trails the difference is big. J

 

[Morty]

Thanks all for the good info. Right now, and based on your opinions and recommendations, I'm thinking of going with 4.88s and 33" Nittos on my 18" wheels for regular use, then I'll get a set of 35" Swampers put on the 16's to use for the weekend trips.

 

[calamaridog]

There is definitely a difference between the 35's and 33's. John had an easier time on the obsticles with his 35's than me on my 33's. There were certainly other factors, but the tires helped too.

The only thing holding me back from 35's is gearing. Hell, I'd like to have the 4.88's for just the 33's.

 

[cruiser99]

16 or 18? I have (2) 18's....

16"

 

[sleeoffroad]

I just did 3000 miles on my truck with 325/60/18 (33" Nitto's) towing a trailer. Personally I think 4.88's with 33's will be to much. I run 2750/2800 rpm at around 80/85mph. OK, I have a turbo and that helps to not notice the larger tire size, but I think 4.88's will be to much gear for 33's if you like to cuise at higher speeds.

 

[Drinkin40s]

I just switched to my winter tires - toyo A/T 285/75R16 from my toyo M/T 285/75R16 - NIGHT AND DAY difference in acceleration. I looked up the specs and it's 15 lbs lighter per tire - so take the tires being used into account too.

 

[e9999]

I just switched to my winter tires - toyo A/T 285/75R16 from my toyo M/T 285/75R16 - NIGHT AND DAY difference in acceleration. I looked up the specs and it's 15 lbs lighter per tire - so take the tires being used into account too.

that's all of 75 lbs then.
do you also feel a night and day difference when you have a small passenger added?
could be more the rolling resistance, maybe?

 

[Drinkin40s]

It's actually only 60 lbs (spare stays the same) - absolutely rolling resistance comes into play. I just switched the other night so everytime I get in it's a pleasant surprise.