Any Vise Collectors Here? (3 Viewers)

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The Prentiss 93 was made for a number of years. Earliest ones will have no markings at all other than mayby a P.V.CO below the spindle (1880s-1900) Then came the "graffitti script" ones that you most often associate with Prentisses (1900-1910). After that they went to an arched text similar to later Columbians (1910-1930).

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nice to know, thanks for taking the time. Mine has the text like your middle pic. Unfortunately, not swivelling. So I guess the swinging 20s then... Nice. One thing that is great about the vise is that opens very wide. The jaws are 4.5 in but it opens at least 7in and likely more. I just replaced my Wilton bullet on my main bench with the Prentiss for a change of pace.
One more question: in your last pic there are nice new jaws. Are those commercially available or is that a custom job?
 
Tagged for interest
 
custom eh? yikes! I do need to get a mill...


On a related topic: the handle for the swivel lock on that Prentiss is badly bent. What have you guys found is the best way to straighten those without leaving too many marks as in brute force hammering, given the small size and the handle not being removable?
 
Some jaws here. Don't see the 93 listed but suspect you could get them made for the right price.

 
I don't know the proper blacksmithing terms, but I've seen people cut the swivel bars off, straighten, re-insert, then somehow re-hammer the bell end back on for retention.
It ends up a bit shorter, but no welds, and no marks.
 
Thanks for this thread! Great stuff!
 
@e9999 @MrMikeyG The swivel lock handles are almost always bent on old "user" vises. What I usually do is take a cut off wheel and cut the handle. After it is removed, find a 3-4" shank bolt of appropriate width and length. Then, thread a nut on it all the way to the shank. Cut off the threaded end and tac a weld to keep it. After that, use a grinding wheel to shape both cap ends (easiest done with the whole swivel lock removed).
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You can see here where I did this to my 800.
 
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Nice. I'm thinking I might do a variation of that where I'd take a bolt, shape the hex head nicely with a drill over a grinder first, then shape a nut as well using a hand grinder with the nut on said bolt for a good match, then finally assemble in place with loctite. Might look fine too with little seams showing when done properly; and surely better than my existing bent and bruised one. Plus easily removable later on.
 
Nice! That's a good solid not quite so blacksmithy solution. I like it.
 
So… it has been a while. Just added the largest bench vise I’ve ever seen in person. It is an Athol 618. 260 pound stationary vise. This thing is a TANK! It is in great condition. Hardly any hammer rash and still a lot of life in the cast in jaws. Cool thing on Athols is they incorporate a spring tensioner for the spindle that takes all the “slop” out of the movement.



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that is big. Interesting that it has welded jaws.

this base preferably be very well anchored when in use, would not want that chunk o' iron to fall on my foot...
 
I don't know the proper blacksmithing terms, but I've seen people cut the swivel bars off, straighten, re-insert, then somehow re-hammer the bell end back on for retention.
It ends up a bit shorter, but no welds, and no marks.
I believe the term you're referring to is "Upsetting".
When I built the vise I share previously, the handle ends were turned down some to allow a turned ball to slide over the ends. A torch was used to heat up the end of the handle followed by hammering causing the turned down portion to swell securing the ball ends. Sort of like hot riveting.
 
@e9999 This one is coming off the stand I think. Bottom is 1"X26" plate and sufficiently big and dense. The shaft, being just a 6" I beam is a little light for my taste though.
 
Some funny stuff out here lately.
There's a person selling a vintage York that is pretty beat up and missing the swivel lock bar for $75

Then there is this person:
GLWS I guess?:confused:
 
well, what do you expect? It has the ultra rare piper jaws... :)
 
He's not wrong on the pipe jaws being somewhat "rare". Most 205, 206 I've seen had them missing. You can still buy them from Ridgid and lightly modify them to work but they are not cheap ($170). That price ($2000) is straight up bananas though. A near perfect one would be far less than half that!
 
This weeks find (and first vise of 2022)… found a really good deal on a Wilton 600 on a stand. Went to pick it up thinking I’ll have to tilt it in my bed and lift it in. WRONG! The guy I bought it from had a “Big Joe” that he was also selling!!!!

This is a non powered electro-hydraulic lift (2000 pounds at 59”) this thing is my new best friend!

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