That's interesting. The top of my 60 was also rolled white by the PO, he used pool paint! LOL
Any rattle can paint jobs out there?
- Thread starter mrmatt
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So my paint has several layers of rattle. If the rig wasn't flat black I wouldn't care, but flat black is not my thing.
I called Maaco and their cheapest paint job right now starts at $1800.
Am I coming full circle back to the old rattle can? My 474 color is metallic, which I am afraid to try and spray myself...
Any ideas?
I called Maaco and their cheapest paint job right now starts at $1800.
Am I coming full circle back to the old rattle can? My 474 color is metallic, which I am afraid to try and spray myself...
Any ideas?
86aggie
SILVER Star
I've used Automotive Touchup rattle cans that match my gray metallic. The first time, I held the cans by hand while repainting my hood and it was uneven. Last weekend, I did my front fender 'tops' and used the handle they sell. Shook the can well, and made sure I stopped and started past the edges. Used the 2K clear coat they sell(respirator required). I haven't buffed or waxed it yet, and at 10 ft or even 5 ft, looks great, and I am pretty critical. Is it going to win at a Concours event, no, but after I compound, polish and wax, the average person won't be able to tell. Now, I have to redo the hood, as it looks rough in comparison up close.
It is always appealing to me to be able to use an off the shelf rattle can as I go proper bush and get scratches every week. I do not care to have the body with immaculate duco as long as I have no rust.
A faireddinkum 4wd.
Clear gloss is a dog as it involves another step and another paint, imo.
Finding a uv stable rattle can is the challenge.
My troopy is factory colour code '000', happens to be kubota orange.
I have tried numerous kubota orange 'tractor implement ' paints readily available, rustoleum included. None are uv stable. It is ok where the sun does not hit it, which is fine as it is cheap and tough. I even painted under the body with brush and rattle can. Easy to re-do the engine bay, especially where the batteries and brake fluids can spill.
Finally kubota released a rattle can which is uv stable, but it is exy. I got some for touch ups, but wary of paint for a whole troopy. If it came in a tin I would get it and roll it on.
I use weatherfast marine enamel for white, it is fairly uv stable, easy to apply rattle can or roller, can be buffed if you have the energy, time and incentive. But I always prefer satin or matte anyway. Takes less than two hours to lightly sand and re-coat my roof 2x with a roller. Every 2-3 years, not much paint use, less than 1 liter if I remember. Fair price for a semi uv stable, iso hardened enamel.
Not very flexible paint for a troopy roof , but it is quick and easy to give her a fresh lick of paint.
I have also used a single pac acrylic solid colour red for a 1984 merc. Single application, buff for super gloss but not bad gloss from the spray gun as it comes. It is not as tough, but easy to apply. But you need the correct primers. Fairly uv stable for red. No clear gloss, don't like it. I prefer a buffed gloss if I go for it.
This is where enamel is much easier to apply, but putting different paints on enamel or viseversa, is not agreeable unless you like melon skin. Which sometimes I don't mind honestly, in tribute to madmax, ratrods, patina and the japanese appreciative descriptive word 'shibui' (weather worn, ancient, eroded, austere..). There is honesty in something which is used and worn.
I have also found the epoxy enamel rattle cans the toughest, I use it for the blacks.
Grand scheme , ease of application and no rust wins for me.
My experience with metallic rattle cans is it needs clear gloss, even then, not really uv stable. Even factory clear gloss rarely hold up. Personally prefer solid colour.
I have avoided the two pack systems, nasty stuff ..
Good stuff, guys! I now need to decide, since a 474 metallic may be tricky to paint myself, if I do a 474 without metallic added to it (what the heck does that look like?) or try and get "close" with an off the shelf rattle can...
Paint is a massive consumer industry. With new technology always upgrading, sometimes for the better sometimes for the worse.
With metallic paint it often requires the clear gloss as the semi uv stable.
I think the metallics came out in the 70-80's like disco balls, disco pants, glitter hairspray and glitter lip gloss..to get a metallic paint requires the metallic to be suspended in the binder. The colour without the metallic shall not be the same and very difficult to match with just pigment.
The old style solid colour pigment paints, imo, are better for longevity as they often can be brought back to life with a cut and polish. Like in karate kid, wax on, wax off.
If you compare cars of vintage which have a clear gloss or even more modern contemporary solid colour ducos which now have clear gloss on top of solid colour but seeking the old 'fashion'. The clear is the first to go in the uv.
The original paint as in not being metallic, therefore a clear gloss, is a contributing factor when I look at purchasing a car to me. For a showroom car, it is not a useful on an LC imo, as they get scratched if they are used for what they are meant for.
A showroom car's paint job is often the most expensive aspect of it.
In oz, most LCs are a simple toyota solid utilitarian white, well at least they were for a decade or two..
Sorry for my bias!
With metallic paint it often requires the clear gloss as the semi uv stable.
I think the metallics came out in the 70-80's like disco balls, disco pants, glitter hairspray and glitter lip gloss..to get a metallic paint requires the metallic to be suspended in the binder. The colour without the metallic shall not be the same and very difficult to match with just pigment.
The old style solid colour pigment paints, imo, are better for longevity as they often can be brought back to life with a cut and polish. Like in karate kid, wax on, wax off.
If you compare cars of vintage which have a clear gloss or even more modern contemporary solid colour ducos which now have clear gloss on top of solid colour but seeking the old 'fashion'. The clear is the first to go in the uv.
The original paint as in not being metallic, therefore a clear gloss, is a contributing factor when I look at purchasing a car to me. For a showroom car, it is not a useful on an LC imo, as they get scratched if they are used for what they are meant for.
A showroom car's paint job is often the most expensive aspect of it.
In oz, most LCs are a simple toyota solid utilitarian white, well at least they were for a decade or two..
Sorry for my bias!
The most successful use of clear gloss, imo, is the preservation of rust stains on ratrods. Very hard to contrive aged patina and can be truly beautiful.
If you go clear gloss, I doubt many could handle cut and polish. Maybe more expensive ones, which means more expensive the whole way for primers and base coats..
I believe some folks just re apply rustoleum or a custom made enamel every few years. Which I do for my roof.
Some would rather spend $200-400 aud and time , as compared to $20,000+ aud for a very proper job. It is not a pleasant full time job.
If you go clear gloss, I doubt many could handle cut and polish. Maybe more expensive ones, which means more expensive the whole way for primers and base coats..
I believe some folks just re apply rustoleum or a custom made enamel every few years. Which I do for my roof.
Some would rather spend $200-400 aud and time , as compared to $20,000+ aud for a very proper job. It is not a pleasant full time job.
I will be using my truck as a weekend warrior and adventure rig, as well as back roads cruising with the family. I have a hunch to want to repaint the rig 464 beige, since that is available in a spray can. But part of me wants to wait until I can pony up $2,500-$3500 and get a somewhat decent respray in the factory color. I know that a respray, no matter what color, will affect values, but what I am working with is currently a lower-end market 60 series. I need to prob just build it like I want, and get rid of this hideous flat black! LOL
yeah I reckon some folks forget to enjoy the thing
I need to do something before this surface rust gets any worse. I eventually want to have the thing repainted the original blue, but I won't be able to afford it for another year or two.
What would you guys recommend as a DIY solution to at least preserve my roof? I'd probably do the whole vehicle if it won't make it harder to do a quality job later...
What would you guys recommend as a DIY solution to at least preserve my roof? I'd probably do the whole vehicle if it won't make it harder to do a quality job later...
yesh! at least some wax asap
I would sand it down as much as possible, then apply Ospho converter and put plastic sheeting over it to sit overnight. Do this a few times, brushing away the white residue each time. Then it should be good to put some paint on that will last a while. The white residue must be brushed off before painting. Ospho is acidic so you want to protect other stuff beneath from drips. And probably have baking soda handy as a neutralizer.
Another option would be to just apply rust converting paint like Eastwood. If you prep properly that should hold up for a while too.
Another option would be to just apply rust converting paint like Eastwood. If you prep properly that should hold up for a while too.
Today I decided to do something to hopefully preserve this roof a little while until I can afford to do better. Got real sweaty with some Scotch Brite, and then painted most of the roof with some Rustoleum goodness that comes close to matching the faded primer that was under the original blue.
I'll touch this up and maybe also paint the A-pillars, then maybe rattle can clear the whole truck to slow the degradation but keep the patina look.
It's not perfect, but I do think it's an improvement.
Looks awesome, dude!
I recently took a scotch brite pad and CLR to some rusty areas on the clunker and was amazed to see surface rust simply disappear before my eyes! Good step 1 before moving on to more invasive prep or protective measures.
I'm a believer in rattle can work especially for trail/beater rigs, however it seems like just color coat never fully dries or hardens, always keeping a tacky feeling. I park mine outside and any paint areas without clear quickly get dust and dirt etched in to them, and I have to clean with an aggressive APC mixture and pressure. I think the key to lasting results would be a deep layer of quality hard clear that could be wetsanded/polished.
Anyone had good results with rattle can clear?
Anyone had good results with rattle can clear?
