Any hope for this 2F? (1 Viewer)

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Jan 3, 2010
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Location
Cupertino, CA
The crank wouldn't turn so I initially thought I'd put some oil in the cylinders and let it soak. Then I started looking around: plug holes, manifold, etc and then decided to take the head off:

Block:
IMG_7033.jpg

Cyl #1 (water pump end)
IMG_7034.jpg

Cyl #2
IMG_7035.jpg

The liquid is the excess oil that didn't drain, pretty much all of it, except cylinder 1 drained away.

This isn't a case of just drop some Kroil/Diesel and it'll work it's way out, is it too far gone to rebuild though? :eek:

Thoughts?
IMG_7033.jpg
IMG_7034.jpg
IMG_7035.jpg
 
Bad symptom

Hi, the engine in the pictures looks bad, however, the only one who ca really tell you if it can be good or not is the machine shop, because even with rust in it, they can bore it out and make it look and work as new, but if there is any cracks in the head or block, then is bad news.

Hope this helps.:wrench:
 
A machine shop can even put new sleeves in the cylinders, weld cracks etc etc. Just how much $$$ are you willing to spend. I would look for a running one also.
 
I'd wire brush the piston tops and see if the motor has been bored out already (look for the size stamped in the piston top - like .030 or 1.0). If not then it might be salvagable. Wire wheel the rust out of the cylinder bores and see how deep the pitting is. If the pits are so deep the block requires sleeves I'd look for another motor. There are still plenty of usable 2F's out there for cheap to spend the coin resurecting a really rusty motor. If the pitting in the cylinders ends up not being too bad clean it up enough to get the pistons out and let a machine shop have a look at it and go from there.

From the pics of cylinder #3 and #4 I'd bet this motor is maybe a crank and rod doner at best.

Nick
 
thanks for the reality check. I think I'll be looking for another engine...

I like the wire wheel option, I'd like to try and get the bell housing and flywheel off at least :/
 

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