Any good aftermarket options to replace the front camera? (2 Viewers)

[CharlieS]

I snipped the white, green and purple wires.

 

[linuxgod]

Maybe it’s the camera model or maybe it’s that you have a 2016, but I tried two different aftermarket backup cameras on my 2013 today and they both sucked. Video was all sorts of flickering and scrambled until I connected V- to the shield on the wiring harness. At that point it worked but the video still had a weird swirling going on. This was direct connected at the camera wiring harness plug, so not an artifact longer cable

 

[CharlieS]

This one is as clear as the factory camera, if not better. And that is with my cobbled together test rig and 27' of cable.

 

[BigLexusMN]

LinuxGod, were you trying to install a replacement camera in the front or rear of the vehicle? I have a 2013 and the front camera is shot so I'm trying to figure out a replacement-

 

[linuxgod]

LinuxGod, were you trying to install a replacement camera in the front or rear of the vehicle? I have a 2013 and the front camera is shot so I'm trying to figure out a replacement-

Rear

 

[Fisher23]

You may want to adjust the linea if you get into the NAV back door menu setup.

 

[linuxgod]

You may want to adjust the linea if you get into the NAV back door menu setup.

Yeah intend to look up how do that again and play with them once I figure out precisely where I want the camera. Debating between putting it right at the edge vs setting it back a bit, maybe as far as the jerry can mount.

 

[Fisher23]

Turn the ignition off.
2) Without putting foot on brake turn Ignition Mode on. [Press Start/Stop button twice (2x). First time is Accessory Mode, second time is Ignition Mode.]
3) Wait until the 'Caution" screen clears and you see your normal display.
4) Hold down the 'Setup' button on the head unit and turn your head lights on and off three (3) times quickly.
The head unit will now go into full setup mode. You can now start the car and it will stay in this mode.

 

[CharlieS]

So I pruned the wiring harness back and it is working. I drilled a hole in the bumper and put the camera there, so it isn't blocked by stuff.

After removing the RCA plug and about 25' of camera wire, the yellow wire was the video signal and the shield around it was the video ground. Red must be the trigger wire (unused in my application).

The wires could be shorter, but are serviceable like this.

It has a wide angle view that I think will come in handy on the trails.

 

[kcjaz]

Hey @linuxgod, did you get a replacement camera to work for you 2013?

 

[linuxgod]

Hey @linuxgod, did you get a replacement camera to work for you 2013?

i did get one to work. I can find which one it was if you’d like. The quality was no better than the factory one, actually a tad more noise in the image, so I just swapped over the factory camera, but if your camera is having issues it would be an easy and cheap fix

Edit: here’s the link. Note that I had to bind the ground sleeves to the group wire at the splice point, otherwise I’d get a weird scrolling/scrambled moire pattern in the image.

Reverse Backup Camera,RAAYOO L002 HD 170 Degree Wide View Angle Universal Car Front/Side/Rear View Camera,2 Installation Option,Removable Guildlines,Mirror Non-Mirror Image,12V only https://a.co/d/coGtWoA

 

[kcjaz]

As I now have to redo my camera relocations on the new 200, I’ve decided to do the camera upgrade at the same time. I’m in the process of collecting parts. The step up TX linked above in this thread was out of stock so I bought this one:

Edit: just realized that what they sent is a step down TX but what I need is to step the 6V line in to 12v. Back to Amazon, try again.

We’ll see if it works. The instructions talk about the necessity of a fuse on the input wire and I’m assuming they mean don’t just connect the TX directly to a battery. As the camera 6v wire is already on a fused circuit, I don’t believe I need an additional fuse. Do you electrical gurus out there agree?

I’m going with this camera because I think it will allow me to get a much better image on my Tesla PX6 screen.

Amazon.com

 

[linuxgod]

It works. I temporarily did this on my 2013 rear camera. Because the screen was my limiting factor I decided to just revert to the factory camera. But it did work. My only caveat is that I found I needed to attach the shield in the shielded Cat5 cable I used to the ground wire, otherwise the video would scroll. But if you are using factory wiring with a different camera it’ll likely be fine
Edit: this is the one I used:

https://a.co/d/hLm3S7D

 

[kcjaz]

So I pruned the wiring harness back and it is working. I drilled a hole in the bumper and put the camera there, so it isn't blocked by stuff.

After removing the RCA plug and about 25' of camera wire, the yellow wire was the video signal and the shield around it was the video ground. Red must be the trigger wire (unused in my application).

The wires could be shorter, but are serviceable like this.

It has a wide angle view that I think will come in handy on the trails.

View attachment 3041567
View attachment 3041568

View attachment 3041566

Hey @CharlieS , I've purchased a similar camera and was looking at the connector that goes to the camera and the button thing that allows you to select image format. Both these things are nearer the camera physically and will send up behind the bumper or grill or in the engine bay and be exposed to the elements. I don't think they are water proof. I was thinking of just heat shrink wrapping them. Did you worry about this or do anything? Have you had any issues?

 

[linuxgod]

Whenever I have something like this I wrap the connecting area in 3M Super88 tape and then heat shrink it. I've used Super88 without heat shrink and once it's adhered properly I've never had it come apart, but I still prefer to heat shrink as you suggest as well.

Butyl tape is better than Super88 for sealing but much less forgiving about removal if you ever need to disconnect

 

[CharlieS]

Hey @CharlieS , I've purchased a similar camera and was looking at the connector that goes to the camera and the button thing that allows you to select image format. Both these things are nearer the camera physically and will send up behind the bumper or grill or in the engine bay and be exposed to the elements. I don't think they are water proof. I was thinking of just heat shrink wrapping them. Did you worry about this or do anything? Have you had any issues?


View attachment 3630985View attachment 3630986

Mine is still working. I sealed the connection with adhesive lined heat shrink tube.

 

[kcjaz]

Testing my new camera:

All worked until I connected the extra yellow wire off the RCA plug to ground. I thought it was a ground wire but it seems to be a trigger wire that I don’t need. The installation instructions didn’t say anything about it. Connecting it to ground disables the image. It stays disabled until the voltage decays. The circuits weird in that it seems to keep its voltage for a while even with the truck off and then it decays but takes a few minutes for it to go to zero.

in theory, the camera is capable of 1024 resolution but I can’t get that to work with the Android PX6 head unit. The PX6 should be able to display that but I get nothing when I try it. So 720p for now. Still better that OEM.

 

[John Guedry]

Dam makes me want to switch out the stock screen for that one and that camera.

 

[kcjaz]

Love this warning:

View attachment 3000352

Seems a tiny bit dramatic.

Can confirm that is an exaggeration. I jumped the trigger wire to ground and nothing burst into flames. It did though effectively short the circuit and something could have got hot. I don’t thing I fried anything as I checked fuses and it all works. The moral is, read the whole thread before you do the wiring.

 

[kcjaz]

So if I cut the RCA plug off to shorted the camera wire, I assume I’ll find two wires, video + and the trigger wire and a foil shield that I’ll somehow have to connect to ground. Can anyone confirm?