Any good aftermarket options to replace the front camera? (1 Viewer)

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The paperwork says the camera signal is NTSC, not PAL. Any gurus know what that means and if it is compatible with our system?
 
US is NTSC. EU is PAL. They have a different number of lines per second. Proceed . . ..
 
Slowly circling back to this project. I think I have the things I need, and want to mock it up before hacking any wires, so I got some of those screw post RCA adapters mentioned above to put it together to verify function before trimming wires, soldering and making it tidy.

Roadblock #1 - None of the connectors provided with the ARB camera extension harness match the factory plug for the camera on my '16. :( Without that, my dreams of a tidy plug and play install are gone. This won't stop a mock up install, but it does add a wrinkle. I'd prefer for it to be 100% reversible so I could go back to a factory camera if it makes sense in the future.

Side note - The plug in this ARB kit does fit a 2103 LC200 camera though. I have a spare parts camera (housing went to another mud member) that I tested it on.

Unless anyone has a part number for a connector that simulates the moulded in 2016 camera plug?... I don't know where to begin to look.

Roadblock #2 - stupid me, I got the male RCA, not the female that I need. Doh!
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When I moved my camera I used cat-6 computer lines. Then you can use RJ45 connectors if you like. Worked great.
 
When I moved my camera I used cat-6 computer lines. Then you can use RJ45 connectors if you like. Worked great.
Wouldn't I need punchdown tools and all that business if I went in that direction?
 
Wouldn't I need punchdown tools and all that business if I went in that direction?
You can just use RJ45 crimpers for the ends and then get a few RJ45 couplers to mate the male ends. No punch down required, though you do need the crimper tool.

I've punched down RJ45 blocks in my house with a flathead screwdriver. Also some jacks will come with a mini-tool. I have to admit after borrowing a decent punch down tool they are way better though.

If you use RJ45 I recommend the outdoor gel-filled stuff. Normal RJ45 jacket will crack under UV and/or temp swings and the inner wires will quickly degrade.

Personally I'd use a bundle of TXL (depending on how many wires you need) and put DT connectors on the ends, but that's just me.

 
FYI, from ARB customer service: The 3515030 Camera Relocation Bracket is for models 2012-2015. For 2016-2021 200 Series Land Cruisers, you need Camera Relocation Bracket part number 3515090.

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It isn't the bracket I need, it's the wire harness, but it doesn't come as a standalone part.
 
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FYI, from ARB customer service: The 3515030 Camera Relocation Bracket is for models 2012-2015. For 2016-2021 200 Series Land Cruiser's, you need Camera Relocation Bracket part number 3515090.

View attachment 3018073

It isn't the bracket I need, it's the wire harness, but it doesn't come as a standalone part.


I am sure I have one of those.. I'll check this evening. If I find it you can have it.
 
I am sure I have one of those.. I'll check this evening. If I find it you can have it.
Wow, thanks! That's incredibly generous.
 
I trimmed the double RCA joiner from the junk drawer and I think it will work for the mock up/function test. I never would have thought of that - the combined thinking of 'mud peeps impresses me over and over. I'm getting closer to testing it out - I just need to put my hands on four wires with tiny pins to plug into the factory connector. Time to dig through my electronics scrap boxes... Being a packrat has its advantages sometimes. :)

If I can verify the function, then I can clean it up with much less unnecessary wire, no extra plugs, and proper connectors. Thanks to @Fisher23, it will be plug and play, and easily reversible.

We should soon have a recipe that others can use/play with to have a more cost effective alternative to the factory camera. Fingers crossed.
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That's actually pretty clean for a temporary Rube Goldberg type solution. It will be interesting to hear if the camera happens to improve picture quality over the stock camera, but as has been discussed the factory display is most likely the limiting factor.

I have actually been wondering if a higher resolution display is available that could be swapped for the factory display so that the aftermarket Android / CarPlay interfaces (EC Offroad, GROM, Naviplus) could potentially take advantage of the higher resolution, but would still accept the lower resolution video from the factory infotainment system. I haven't taken a close enough look at how integrated the factory display is into the plastic bezel in the dash and have no idea what is out there for displays with the same mounting system, dimensions, and power & video inputs, but it sure would be cool if we could upgrade to something like a 1080P (even 720P would be fine) display as maps in CarPlay would be SO much better with the higher resolution.
 
I wonder what display did they put in the 300, and if it's backward compatible.
 
I wonder what display did they put in the 300, and if it's backward compatible.
The display in the 300 series is larger, so there's probably zero chance that it would be backward compatible. My thought is that we would need to find a display with the same physical dimensions that is plug in compatible, but higher resolution and figure out how to remove the old display from the factory plastic bezel and attach the new display. I think I remember reading about someone fixing a cracked display on the cheap by tracking down an exact replacement and swapping it out in this manner.

Edit: Found the thread: Managed to break my multifunction screen.
 
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I received the 2016 harness today, thanks @Fisher23!!

Turns out both versions of the harnesses require you to de-pin the factory connector (vehicle harness side) and re-pin it into the included, loose, ARB white plug, which then connects to the white plug already installed on the ARB harness.

So there isn't a quick plug and play to go back and forth from factory to aftermarket, unless you have two ARB harnesses, one for your aftermarket camera (spliced) and one for the factory camera (as delivered by ARB with the plug that matches the factory camera). No big deal, but good to know.

The 2016 ARB harness (p/n 6821325) has six wires (green, white, blue w/one stripe, pink, red, and blue w/two stripes), the earlier version of the ARB harness (p/n 6821271) has four wires (brown, green, yellow and blue), so I'm going to have to start digging for wiring diagrams.

Anyone have a scan of the wiring pinouts from the fitting instructions for the 2016 ARB harness (harness p/n 6821325 that comes in kit p/n 3515090) when you re-pin their connector into the ARB connector? I'll try ARB tomorrow.

2015 - four wires

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2016 - six wires

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and
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I may be getting way over my head, pins 1 and 4 seem to go to some sort of CAN bus who knows what.
 
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One more piece of the puzzle:

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Progress report:

Yes, this camera works as we were hoping!

And I need to do a ton of wire and splice tidying, since this was just a test rig...

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I need to snip some configuration wires to get it to be in the right orientation and remove the parking lines, but it works. That's just fine tuning

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Apologies in absentia to my neighbor for showing their yard.

Replacing this cracked up lens:
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Not having the CAN +/- connected looks like it generates an error (exclamation symbol) and I'm guessing it probably disables park assist, but that's just a guess. I've never used that stuff, and won't miss it, if it is gone. Looks like it also messes with the birds eye view camera feature.

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I tried it in the stock location, but I think I'll probably drill a hole in my tjm and install it for better visibility while slow speed trail driving.

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