Any experience with Fox 2.0 Performance Series IFP shocks? (2 Viewers)

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Confirms the theory - exposed, the shafts are prone to damage. Had one shock's oil seal fail on highway (!) because of a scored shaft. Rear being most prone. After that I put cheap boots on all four - no problems.

For comparison, I had Icon 2.5's without boots for 2 years without issue. Must be related to material strength. But considering price, easy fix is to wrap them up.

I would buy them again without hesitation and feel they are on par with Icon 2.0's (on now)

My biggest beef was with rust which again is material related. The icon's do not have this problem.

If you ever plan on DIY rebuild - go Icon. Awesome customer support!
 
@Desertdino - $$$ for RR's which IMHO is mandatory for desert heat + heavy rig.

Have you checked out the big-bore Koni's everyone swears by?(No experience) They cost a bit more than 2.5 RR's.

Or, OME BP51's for the same price as 2.5 RR's - BUT a 4 year warranty compared to one year as well as international dealer support. Might be better being overseas.

Good luck
 
For the OP, looking at your build thread and 'wheeling area, you may want to look for a rear shock with a remote reservoir. It would provide for added cooling if you are driving at higher speeds off-road with that much load. Radflo is the only manufacture with a remote reservoir 2.0.

I went through this just last month and ultimately chose the Fox 2.0 in the 3-4" variety (985-24-076, 985-24-087) from Advanced cycle parts on Amazon for just $116 each. They are just a hair shorter than the OME "L" shocks I was replacing. I was content with the OME shocks and the price of the Fox shocks were nearly identical. If the OME twin tube shocks can handle what I do, there is no reason the Fox monotubes should not be more than adequate. Details of my truck can be found in the link in my signature line.

There is a lot of cross talk about how a heavy truck will blow out Fox shocks...just not true. Sure, the shock will work harder (heat and break down the oil) if the valving is not matched well to the springs/weight but it will not contribute to premature "blowout" failure. Failure will be due to driving the truck beyond the limits of the shock. The better approach is to ensure you have the proper springs for your load and driving intentions, then proceed to shocks. Over-landing, high speed dirt, or any such mix will require a shock with additional oil volume to remain cool.

I would agree the Fox 2.0 may have valving for "lighter" setups, but these can always be re-valved in the future. There are numerous local shops that can re-build and or re-valve these 2.0 cheaper than what Fox charges. The only way to make the 2.0 better would be the option for a remote reservoir, however the price of such an addition nears the price of 2.5s. I feel many manufactures have dropped that option and simply want consumers to buy the 2.5 or 2.5 with reservoirs (spend more $$$). If retailers can sell the Fox 2.0 for less than $120, than I see no reason why Fox could not produce a 2.0 with a reservoir for less than $200 (which I would be a buyer at).

Last but most important, PUT A BOOT ON THE SHOCKS. Not even $15 for a set:
Shock Boots Universal - Black (pair) [69127] | $6.75 | SD Truck Springs | Leaf Springs, Helper Springs and Suspension Parts

 
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For the OP, looking at your build thread and 'wheeling area, you may want to look for a rear shock with a remote reservoir. It would provide for added cooling if you are driving at higher speeds off-road with that much load. Radflo is the only manufacture with a remote reservoir 2.0.

I went through this just last month and ultimately chose the Fox 2.0 in the 3-4" variety (985-24-076, 985-24-087) from Advanced cycle parts on Amazon for just $116 each. They are just a hair shorter than the OME "L" shocks I was replacing. I was content with the OME shocks and the price of the Fox shocks were nearly identical. If the OME twin tube shock can handle what I do, there is no reason the Fox monotubes should not be more than adequate. Details of my truck can be found in the link in my signature line.

There is a lot of cross talk about how a heavy truck will blow out Fox shocks...just not true. Sure, the shock will work harder (heat and break down the oil) if the valving is not matched well to the springs/weight but it will not contribute to premature "blowout" failure. Failure will be due to driving the truck beyond the limits of the shock. The better approach is to ensure you have the proper springs for your load and driving intentions, then proceed to shocks. Over-landing, high speed dirt, or any such mix will require a shock with additional oil volume to remain cool.

I would agree the Fox 2.0 may have valving for "lighter" setups, but these can always be re-valved in the future. There are numerous local shops that can re-build and or re-valve these 2.0 cheaper than what Fox charges. The only way to make the 2.0 better would be the option for a remote reservoir, however the price of such an addition nears the price of 2.5s. I feel many manufactures have dropped that option and simply want consumers to buy the 2.5 or 2.5 with reservoirs (spend more $$$). If retailers can sell the Fox 2.0 for less than $120, than I see no reason why Fox could not produce a 2.0 with reservoir for less than $200 (which I would be a buyer at).

Last but most important, PUT A BOOT ON THE SHOCKS. Not even $15 for a set:
Shock Boots Universal - Black (pair) [69127] | $6.75 | SD Truck Springs | Leaf Springs, Helper Springs and Suspension Parts



Will these work on 2.5 shock bodies?
 
If your rig is heavy then stay away from fox shocks, they are too soft and will blow out rather quickly. Fox is only good for very light rigs, they are more like OEM replacement but supports lift. When my LX was light it rode like a Lexus! Sadly my LX gained so much weight even with OME heavies springs the fox shocks are simply too soft.

If you are under budget and very heavy then stay with OME, or you can try tough dog shocks that are adjustable. But can’t go wrong with OME for heavy rigs, that’s what they are designed for.

How heavy did your truck get? I'm looking at getting these shocks (to pair w existing Ironman coils on the lighter side) and I've got an ARB bull bar in front (~80 lbs) and custom bumper in back (~250 lbs). Only additional weight in the foreseeable future would be camping gear and RTT. Think these shocks will work for me?
 
@Desertdino - $$$ for RR's which IMHO is mandatory for desert heat + heavy rig.

Have you checked out the big-bore Koni's everyone swears by?(No experience) They cost a bit more than 2.5 RR's.

Or, OME BP51's for the same price as 2.5 RR's - BUT a 4 year warranty compared to one year as well as international dealer support. Might be better being overseas.

Good luck
I agree with this, I would get RR's if I were you.
 
I had a set of the fox shocks and they didn't last a year.
 
How heavy did your truck get? I'm looking at getting these shocks (to pair w existing Ironman coils on the lighter side) and I've got an ARB bull bar in front (~80 lbs) and custom bumper in back (~250 lbs). Only additional weight in the foreseeable future would be camping gear and RTT. Think these shocks will work for me?


I was at 6100lbs with me in it and not too much stuff. I do have a heavy roof rack also which didn't help. If you planning on doing RTT then I would say stay with ARB or maybe even ironman adjustable so you can dial up the compression when your weight goes up. Also if you have a live AND RTT then you really should look at upgrading the sway bars and links, simply not safe on the road with that much weight on top without upgrading the swaybars.

I had a set of the fox shocks and they didn't last a year.

I had no issues with Fox IFP 2.0 lasting really, they lasted 3 years but I only added 20k miles during that 3 years.
 

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