Another leaky ebrake

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Joined
Jun 26, 2006
Messages
292
Location
Longview, Texas
Not sure I have the typical leaks most folks have written about. Gear oil is leaking through the splines and dripping down the face of the drum. The rig is just sitting there ...and still leaks even in the cold weather. Can't imagine what it would do if the rig were running and the 90 wt oil was hot.

I can see the outer edges of the spline behind the castle nut and I am wondering if I got the wrong washer back on. Does the washer act somewhat as seal to prevent the oil from running out the splines?

The seal in the speedo housing seems to be fine.

Thanks for any help.
P1010046.jpg
 
If you've already replaced the output seal, you'll prolly need to get your drum brazed. The seal will wear a ring around where it seats against the drum -

Tucker





How would this effect oil leaking past the splines and beyond the washer and castle nut? You would think that if it were leaking oil past the seal that it would be wet between the drum and the backing plate and not out the face of the parking brake drum.



:meh:



And on the brazing; a speedi-sleeve is a far more economical option.

CR# 99177


:beer:



Not sure I have the typical leaks most folks have written about. Gear oil is leaking through the splines and dripping down the face of the drum. The rig is just sitting there ...and still leaks even in the cold weather. Can't imagine what it would do if the rig were running and the 90 wt oil was hot.

I can see the outer edges of the spline behind the castle nut and I am wondering if I got the wrong washer back on. Does the washer act somewhat as seal to prevent the oil from running out the splines?

The seal in the speedo housing seems to be fine.

Thanks for any help.




Many folks clean the area behind the washer and use a big fat bead of silicone around the area where the splines end on the shaft and the large washer seats against the drum to try and prevent this oil leak from occurring.

IIRC, Toyota recommends this for some newer transfer case output flanges on their other vehicles.


If you want this silicone to work, you will need to drain the gear oil and very thoroughly clean the output shaft splines and the parking brake drum spline area with brake cleaner in order to get the silicone to seal and not leak.



:beer:
 
Poser.....you mentioned the large washer....I'm not certain I got exactly the one that came off the ebrake ...if you look closely at the pic, you can see there is room for a larger diameter washer to fit behind the castle nut. May have put a washer that came off the out put of the front transfer cas or something...

Just seems reasonable to me that a washer that completely covered the splines would greatly prevent or reduce this leak.
 
Seems like it would still be the seal or its grooved badly. Mike
 
Lord have mercy.

Come on guys.

He ain't got the right washers on there. Also as Poser stated you need to add silicone under the washer. I also go one step further and add a little to the splines. Though I don't wipe the oil away from them cause I'd like to be able to get the drum back off.

The speedo housing seal and the groove that forms has nothing to do with this failure above.

Also most people miss the small thin sealing washer. Yes there should be 2 washers total.
http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_U_1973_TOYOTA_LAND+CRUISER_FJ40LV-A_3609.html
 
How would this effect oil leaking past the splines and beyond the washer and castle nut? You would think that if it were leaking oil past the seal that it would be wet between the drum and the backing plate and not out the face of the parking brake drum.

Guess I should read the post more closely, this is for the other 95% of people with a leaky e-brake.

:doh:

Tucker
 
Seems like it would still be the seal or its grooved badly. Mike




Mike-



Very curious as to your reasoning behind this statement; Any chance you could elaborate on it as to how it could be true?




:beer:
 
e brake

I cant see any pics today I know there has been some trouble with the site

"Just seems reasonable to me that a washer that completely covered the splines would greatly prevent or reduce this leak"

A washer does not play a role in preventing oil leaking if it fits okay and the thickness is not wrong and messing with the installation then it seems to me it is doing its job. Of course sealing it all up with silicone is a fix of sorts but it still means it is leaking.

When installing the shaft seal you can pack it with heavy grease on the spring side and put some loctite 515 or similar around the outside before driving it in.

I just replaced my seal and E brake and found both the brake linings lying in the bottom of the drum detached from the shoes!
I had no oil leak--probably get one now that I change the seal:rolleyes:

I looked at my FSM for 67-75 and only saw 1 washer and a castellated nut and cotter pin but my trans is from a later model---(79) and had the stake nut and 2 washers. 1 of those is real thin so I am thinking it is a shim not a washer so depending on tolerances some may have them and some not or they may be a different thickness.

I am asuming you have an older model since you had the castellated nut
 
Also most people miss the small thin sealing washer. Yes there should be 2 washers total.
ToyoDIY.com

Who'd a thunk!! I've never seen that on the transfer cases I've pulled apart. What is the purpose for the second washer? When you say "sealing washer" I think copper washer. Am I right?
 
Actually its not a sealing washer........ sealant retains the oil from sliding down the splines.....

There is usually a thick large washer and a "shim" used for adjusting the depth that the nut will travel on to the shaft.....

More common on older cases before 1/'74 that used the castle nut & cotter-pin...... "shimming" for the purpose of alignment of the nut slot and shaft hole.......
 
I have a single thick washer and that's all I've ever found. My '55 is a '76 but I got the tranfer case from a '72. The FJ45Lv is a '67. I've also had a couple of other tranfer cases since then, one from a four speed and one from a three speed.
 
Actually its not a sealing washer........ sealant retains the oil from sliding down the splines.....

There is usually a thick large washer and a "shim" used for adjusting the depth that the nut will travel on to the shaft.....

More common on older cases before 1/'74 that used the castle nut & cotter-pin...... "shimming" for the purpose of alignment of the nut slot and shaft hole.......

Learn something new every day. Thanks.:beer:
 
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