Another EFI Sniper question...

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Id advise against the Lokar cable. I am working on a way to go back to a mechanical linkage. The Lokar feels... bad.

If your Lokar feels bad there could be issues with the cable internal sleeve. Even the stainless sheathed ones can melt if hot and make it stick.

if it’s not sticky feeling then maybe your attachment point and pedal height needs adjusting. It’s very smooth if it’s right.

One other thing to keep in mind. If you need a return spring other than what is on the Sniper and the pedal you likely have a cable issue.
 
It's set up (mostly) correct but it just doesnt have the resistance and similar travel as a stock linkage. To me, tactally, it just doesnt feel right. Just a personal preference, probably should have added that qualifier.
 
To maintain idle up with A/C, where do you connect the gray wire from the Sniper harness?
 
To maintain idle up with A/C, where do you connect the gray wire from the Sniper harness?

Ive got a couple with AC and the computer will take care of the idle up without using any of the wires in the 10 pin
 
Following the suggestion to incorporate the AC Delco check valve in the vapor canister line routing teed off of the vacuum advance. Would this diagram be an acceptable approach to allow proper purging of the canister?
vapor canister.jpg
 
Thanks wngrog for confirming. Did you let the distributor breath to the air cleaner or capped off both ports?
 
I’ve got my sniper installed and it’s running great. That said, what is the consensus on what one does with the exhaust flapper with a Sniper installed? My flapper seems to be working fine but is it still required?
 
I’ve got my sniper installed and it’s running great. That said, what is the consensus on what one does with the exhaust flapper with a Sniper installed? My flapper seems to be working fine but is it still required?
If it's working let it ride
 
I recently reset the AIC after fixing a small exhaust leak. It immediately started running better but after driving the throttle position hangs up at 1-2% at idle.
If I lift the gas peddle with my toes, the idle will drop to 750 RPM like it should. I have already installed another return spring, it doesn't make any difference. Anybody else having this issue?
 
I recently reset the AIC after fixing a small exhaust leak. It immediately started running better but after driving the throttle position hangs up at 1-2% at idle.
If I lift the gas peddle with my toes, the idle will drop to 750 RPM like it should. I have already installed another return spring, it doesn't make any difference. Anybody else having this issue?
Check to make sure your cable isn’t binding or frayed. Check the return spring to make sure it’s pulling it all the way returned. If it happens only after it warms up, is the spring hooked to somewhere that is expanding/contracting with heat and moving a little?
 
I'm using the original linkage rod (slightly modified). I have an auxiliary spring as well and have added more tension to it since I posted about it. The problem persists....
I learned at YouTube University that the throttle position sensor may need to be reclocked. The sensor is on the opposite side of the throttle body from the linkage. I just got to remove the air filter housing and give it a try. I'll report back if it works.

So everytime I cycle the ignition switch, it resets to 0, then as soon as I drive it hangs at 1-2% again. Honestly, I'm glad that's the biggest problem I've had in the last couple years.
 

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