Nice drawer. I discovered the same thing when I made my own version on the arb drawers out of metal. However, you ended up with a custom drawer that will last you many years. Congrats!
Another DIY Drawer Thread - One Side only
- Thread starter sonk76
- Start date
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TrekboxX
Supporting Vendor
Looks really clean! If this Trekboxx thing goes anywhere, you're hired!
Love the way you made it plug and play. Great idea for folks like yourself who prefer to have it removable.
Love the way you made it plug and play. Great idea for folks like yourself who prefer to have it removable.
sonk great job beautiful work! I was thinking of a similar setup but with both 3rd row seat still in place just using the center section for the drawer position. I need that 3rd row for when my kids have extra friends to shuttle around; obviously you need the 3rd row also. Questions for you; how did you attach the entire drawer to the floor? is it easy to remove? also are you usuing some sort of quick dis-connect for the wiring to have the drawer being removable??
- Thread starter
- #104
The drawer bolts down directly to the floor using the captive mounting bolts for the 3rd row seats on the drivers side. Access to these bolts is made easier by the opening top on the drawer.
There are two plugs that connect the drawer to the truck. One large plug that runs the power and ground to the drawer with 4gauge wire. One smaller plug that runs a signal that turns the a switch illumination lights on and off with the truck. Total disconnect and reconnect time = about 5 seconds.
very nice thanks for the response. now I just need to find the time to work on it thanks!
fireball
SILVER Star
Sonk - awesome work! A few quick questions:
If you wanted a full width double drawer system, is there any reason to not build it in two halves? I like the flexibility of taking one side out, even if there isn't a good chance I'll ever use it
But it doesn't seem that much more difficult, and I can't think of a compelling reason not to.
Where did you source the drawer slides? Did you use the 36 or 40" slide? 9301 or 7957?
Accuride 9301- 36" - $152.28
Anything you'd do differently next time around?
Thanks!
If you wanted a full width double drawer system, is there any reason to not build it in two halves? I like the flexibility of taking one side out, even if there isn't a good chance I'll ever use it
But it doesn't seem that much more difficult, and I can't think of a compelling reason not to.Where did you source the drawer slides? Did you use the 36 or 40" slide? 9301 or 7957?
Accuride 9301- 36" - $152.28
Anything you'd do differently next time around?
Thanks!
I just had to pop in and say this is absolute sex. Beautiful work. I'm in awe!!!!!!!!!! 
I just had to pop in and say this is absolute sex. Beautiful work. I'm in awe!!!!!!!!!!
Absolute sex? I haven't heard that since 2003.
bluecruiser
SILVER Star
its a vintage saying now. I think it fits. I've seen a truck called handsome and once read about an artistic build. Series 100 crowd is passionate.
wow this is amazing. 5 stars for you sir. I would insert a gif of a fat man and an approval nod but im being lazy. Truly amazing work.
fireball
SILVER Star
How would you access and mount the carcass to the floor if you didn't have the emergency access panel?
Those drawer slides don't separate do they. So I guess you'd have to install the carcass to the floor them attach the drawer to the slides?
Thanks!
Sent from my iPad
Those drawer slides don't separate do they. So I guess you'd have to install the carcass to the floor them attach the drawer to the slides?
Thanks!
Sent from my iPad
- Thread starter
- #113
If you didn't have access through the "emergency access panel" you could reach into the carcass opening with your arm and then try to line up the holes and ratchet the bolts in. This would require unbolting the drawer from the slides as you mentioned (they do not "slide-off" without being fully unbolted.)
I suspect that all of this is achievable--especially once you have a good sense where the box will have to be relative to the trunk in order for the hole to line-up--and may in fact be a good solution if you don't ever see the need to remove and/or re-install the box.
I think this is definitely achievable, but I have definitely enjoyed the improved visibility and access from simply opening up the top.
Several months in, I'm stilll loving the box. It has thus-far worked flawlessly. I have yet to try sleeping on it though--perhaps this will be the year for a camping trip with my son where we'll get to try it...
fireball
SILVER Star
Thanks for the info! How many bolts did you use to secure the slide to the drawer?
Sounds like if i want to make this quickly and easily removable the emergency access panel or some other attachment system will be the ticket.
Sent from my iPad
Sounds like if i want to make this quickly and easily removable the emergency access panel or some other attachment system will be the ticket.
Sent from my iPad
- Thread starter
- #115
I believe there are ~6 bolts on each side that attach the slides to the carcass. So total of ~12 to be removed to get the slides out.
very nice build, and that wiring panel is on a whole different level, impressive.
fireball
SILVER Star
Sonk,
Now that I've actually begun to build mine I have a few more questions so I hope you'll bear with me! Firstly thanks for the all the info and detailed pics, it's been a huge help!
Did you finish the inside and underside of the carcass?
For the drawer front, you nested the front and back of the drawer into the sides. You noted this was difficult due to the stepped sides. Is there a reason you couldn't have cut the sides 1.5" shorter and put the front and back panel against the sides? This would be a lot easier to make I believe.
Did you set the drawer slides directly on the bottom of the carcass? I'm guessing that's the way to do it, then just slightly raise the drawer off the carcass bottom by 1/16" or so.
Do you think the drawer sides and bottom need to be 3/4"? I've got a 24" drawer and a 38". Thinking of using all half inch for the 24". The longer drawer will use 3/4" sides because if the drawer slide thickness which is also 3/4. But wondering if the bottom can't be 1/2". I'll be dadoing the drawer bottom into the sides just like you did.
Thanks!
Sent from my iPad
Now that I've actually begun to build mine I have a few more questions so I hope you'll bear with me! Firstly thanks for the all the info and detailed pics, it's been a huge help!
Did you finish the inside and underside of the carcass?
For the drawer front, you nested the front and back of the drawer into the sides. You noted this was difficult due to the stepped sides. Is there a reason you couldn't have cut the sides 1.5" shorter and put the front and back panel against the sides? This would be a lot easier to make I believe.
Did you set the drawer slides directly on the bottom of the carcass? I'm guessing that's the way to do it, then just slightly raise the drawer off the carcass bottom by 1/16" or so.
Do you think the drawer sides and bottom need to be 3/4"? I've got a 24" drawer and a 38". Thinking of using all half inch for the 24". The longer drawer will use 3/4" sides because if the drawer slide thickness which is also 3/4. But wondering if the bottom can't be 1/2". I'll be dadoing the drawer bottom into the sides just like you did.
Thanks!
Sent from my iPad
fireball
SILVER Star
Here's where I'm at on my build. Driver side will house all electronics and subwoofers and stay in vehicle all the time. Building a short drawer for now but will build with consideration of making a slide for fridge in the future. Pass side is going to be a near replica of your fine work.
Great build! Your attention to detail is incredible!
I'm also building a set for my 100 and inspired by your creativity!
One question I have is about the Vector handle, what source did you use to get it? I did a search but looks like I can't find a source that just sells the thing without making you go through this big loop around!
thank you for any info you can give (or anybody else who got them as well)
I'm also building a set for my 100 and inspired by your creativity!
One question I have is about the Vector handle, what source did you use to get it? I did a search but looks like I can't find a source that just sells the thing without making you go through this big loop around!
thank you for any info you can give (or anybody else who got them as well)
Really nice work!
