Another DIY Drawer Thread - One Side only

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Trust me, I understand the need to fulfill every need/eventuality, I'm famous for over thinking stuff. But I've come to realize it's better to do it one way, and do it well. Decide how you'll normally use the top and design it for that.

The HDPE is pretty good stuff. Easy to machine, but I doubt anything will stick to it (epoxy, etc.). It's not incredibly rigid, so for your application I'd go with 1/2 or better, and that can get somewhat heavy. There are better materials IMHO, and I'm actually incorporating one into my new design, but they are expensive, hard to machine, and a total PIA to obtain in anything less than a truckload. You'll probably be done before I have any, but if not I'd be happy to send you some. Pm me if you like.

edit- if you go with HDPE, get Starboard. It's textured HDPE with pigment added and much more UV stable, if I understand correctly.
 
Progress is being made (I'm trying to get this to a minimally functional state by this Wednesday so that I can use it already at CMCC 2013 this year.)

Any thoughts on whether or not it is a bad idea to use it before I paint it?

There is no way that I can finish everything and paint everything in time. And ideally I would paint everything all at once when all components (wing and all) are done. But I could paint what I have now to give it some extra protection, but would only do that if it really made a difference.

Couple of pics:

Here are the slides mounted Accuride 9301 and 9308--laying flush on floor to carry vertical weight, and attached horizontally with t-nuts:
20130711_234519.jpg

20130711_234546.jpg


And here is a 1st picture with things actually together with glue + fasteners (still need to clean-up the finish, etc.):
20130712_140401.jpg
 
Great looking drawer! Nice work.

From post 20 above I thought you were going to have the top with a removable section? Perhaps it is, but the post reads "with glue and fasteners". Are the angle brackets at the top of the sides for this? It also looks like you've dado'd the top, I'm assuming this is to get it to self-center when it is removed? Post 20 also showed just the center of the top being removable. I liked this and had assumed this was to prevent the sides from racking under load and with the top removed.

I think I now want plans for your bench as much as plans for your drawer!
 
Looks great! Did you decide to skip the opening top? I think it's a good idea to use it prior to finishing, as long as it won't see much moisture. Any dings can easily be fixed, and it will be much easier to make any modifications without the finish already applied. You may be surprised what your trial run begs you to change!
 
Great looking drawer! Nice work.

From post 20 above I thought you were going to have the top with a removable section? Perhaps it is, but the post reads "with glue and fasteners".

Looks great! Did you decide to skip the opening top?

You guys are both very observant. Yes, what I have here is still very much work in progress. The top is a single piece, only because I will not have enough time to build the whole opening functionality by Wednesday. So I will temporarily bolt screw down the top part for next weekend's use.

The slide table top is there, and that is what the aluminum "L" brackets are for (just can't see it in the picture.)

I tried to find a "pause" point in the project that would allow me to use the drawers without need to fully complete. I suspect the opening top, with my requirements of being able to lock it, but at the same time use it to access materials in the box from inside the cab (which by the way requires the ability to remove the rather large "table top" that I now have in the design) will take some time.

Here are the latest design I'm still working towards (it continues to evolve, with only the parts already built remaining static):

7-14-2013%2520-%2520exterior%2520closed.JPG


Top-open and drawer extended:
7-14-2013%2520-%25201.JPG


Using partial table:
7-14-2013%2520-%2520partial-table.JPG


Using full table:
7-14-2013%2520-%2520full-table.JPG


Detail on opening. What's missing from this picture are the vertical tension latches that plan to mount on the rear vertical wall exterior to "pull-down" and tighten the opening top down. I may actually find some that have a lock incorporated into them, in which case the lock you see in the corner would not be needed. Also, I may imbed short wooden dowels into the top exposed edges of the wooden box that would give additional horizontal front-to-back support for the opening top (given the dado cut on the top, side-to-side support should be a non-issue).

7-14-2013%2520-%2520in-cabin%2520access.JPG
 
What's the point of an opening top of you cant access it without extending the table which would mean opening the swingouts and tailgate?
 
Table can be removed both ways. The 2nd row seat-back will need to be horizontal or the entire seat might need to be flipped forward depending on the table height.

Or, if the table is shorter, it could just be lifted out?
 
What's the point of an opening top of you cant access it without extending the table which would mean opening the swingouts and tailgate?

Ha! Good point.

Although with it hinged at the front a shown I bet it could slide forward too.
 
Table can be removed both ways. The 2nd row seat-back will need to be horizontal or the entire seat might need to be flipped forward depending on the table height.

Or, if the table is shorter, it could just be lifted out?

That is exactly the plan. TBD to what extent the second row will have to be folded.
 
I have to say, the opening top is novel, and I'm excited to see the finished product, but I really don't see the need. You'd have to have the perfect storm- backed up against an obstacle AND stuck, no way to get out without the recovery gear that you couldn't take out of the drawer beforehand, and you'd have to unpack everything on top of the drawer to get at it. Seems like a lot of work and complexity for a situation that could easily be avoided by carrying a couple of shackles, a tree strap, and a snatch block elsewhere. Or at least remove them before going into said situation. Don't get me wrong, your build is awesome and I'm looking forward to the finale! I just wouldn't fault you if you decided against it!
 
I have to say, the opening top is novel, and I'm excited to see the finished product, but I really don't see the need. You'd have to have the perfect storm- backed up against an obstacle AND stuck, no way to get out without the recovery gear that you couldn't take out of the drawer beforehand, and you'd have to unpack everything on top of the drawer to get at it. Seems like a lot of work and complexity for a situation that could easily be avoided by carrying a couple of shackles, a tree strap, and a snatch block elsewhere. Or at least remove them before going into said situation. Don't get me wrong, your build is awesome and I'm looking forward to the finale! I just wouldn't fault you if you decided against it!

I completely agree with the limited practical value in day-to-day use.

To be honest, it all started with the desire to have easier access to the mounting bolts during the install (I want to maintain the ability to remove and re-install the box with "relative" ease [i.e., as easily as possible, given that it will still be a pain]).

The "emergency use" scenario you describe is just the icing on the cake (I'd probably build the top to be removable just for the install reasons alone, but I figured that while I'm at it, might as well accommodate the marginal crazy scenario...) :D I personally expect to NEVER have this type of emergency situation occur for as long as I own the truck...

Here are a couple of pics from the intermediate state (none of the above is implemented here yet):

20130714_171644.jpg

20130714_171710_Richtone%2528HDR%2529.jpg


Here is the table top in current state (not final):
20130714_171755_Richtone%2528HDR%2529.jpg

20130714_171732_Richtone%2528HDR%2529.jpg


And finally, a test to make sure that the initial design goal of being able to use one of the 3rd seats:
20130714_172006_Richtone%2528HDR%2529.jpg
 
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A couple of more pics

I'm getting very excited to get this drawer system into use (though I know it will be several more weeks until it's really fully done.)

I can already tell it's going to make accessing/packing many of my tools/etc. much easier.

Btw, as an added bonus, I noticed that the removable table-top I have be used to make a full sleeping platform in the truck--another thing I doubt I'll ever need, but nice to know I could if I needed to :D

The last picture shows a little motion activated drawer light from IKEA. It's cheap and easy... and surprisingly effective--not sure if it has a place in the longer term solution, but for now I like it.

20130714_211526.jpg


20130714_211406.jpg


20130714_211557.jpg
 
Incredibly well done! I believe this will be an example that will shape a lot of drawers to come, mine included.

Have you had a chance to weigh the drawer? I'm curious what something like this would weigh.
 
looks great! i've though about doing the exact same thing in my Cruiser, with single drawers that could be doubled up if needed -- my question is how well does the 3rd row seat come down next to the box? is there any rubbing/interference? i'm assuming there isn't, but wanted to check to see if the box stops at the center-line of the rig or not? i'm sure it doesn't matter since having a single box on the diver's side would be the only single-drawer setup, since the 2nd row flips down on the passenger side for 3rd row access.
 
Incredibly well done! I believe this will be an example that will shape a lot of drawers to come, mine included.

Have you had a chance to weigh the drawer? I'm curious what something like this would weigh.

No chance to weigh the drawer yet. I was going to wait until it is complete. I'll update then.
 
looks great! i've though about doing the exact same thing in my Cruiser, with single drawers that could be doubled up if needed -- my question is how well does the 3rd row seat come down next to the box? is there any rubbing/interference? i'm assuming there isn't, but wanted to check to see if the box stops at the center-line of the rig or not? i'm sure it doesn't matter since having a single box on the diver's side would be the only single-drawer setup, since the 2nd row flips down on the passenger side for 3rd row access.

I can take some closer pictures, but there is no interference with the 3rd row seat--it is about as closely as one can get. I'm very happy with the clearance, it worked out exactly as I had hoped. It is close enough though that if I wanted to add another drawer, I could easily make it flush with this one, which is what I wanted (any corrections for width would be made on the "wing side".
 
No progress on build, but did have an opportunity to test drive the work in progress. I must admit that I was a little skeptical of the excitement that I had previously heard about drawer systems, but I can now see why people are such big fans of these.

I loved the extra functionality it provided. The table top that extends on top of the drawer was actually one my very FAVORITE features--I used it all the time!

The other practical lesson from the trip made me think about how to I best get access to:

1) Water
2) Compressed air
3) 110v power

All things that I needed, can see my self needing every-time I go camping. So I'm thinking through my "wing" design to see how these factors should come to play (pretty sure it maybe impossible to effectively address all three with the wing design alone...)

20130719_074835.jpg
 
Not sure whether you already have onboard fresh water and on-board air, but I think it would be great to use that side wing area to mount the inverter, or at least an outlet wired from the inverter, an OBA outlet and a water outlet.

So you like that idea :) I have spent a a lot of time touring through Australia, and water, AC power and air we needed to be accessed daily. Pulling an air compresses out of a drawer, handling heavy water jugs or looking for your inverter can become a hassle.

I ended up building a 10 gallon stainless water tank, mounted under the truck, routed the plumbing up to a few different places a) tap outlet at the back, b) thin hoses with nozzles mounted on the outside of the b pillar between front and rear doors on both sides of the truck. Those are handy for washing of dirty/sandy feet.
 
Progress Update

Things have been moving along, but slowly. I'm in the process of designing and building the wing.

The pictures show the on-board air, 110v + USB outlets. The output air is just for filling up tires for now (not enough volume for air tools), but I've built it so that I can upgrade the air system later while still using the same drawer setup.

I'm still missing all the buttons for turning the stuff on, and off. Those will go above the outlet and air hookup.

In addition, I'm in the process of designing a setup that will allow me to run all the electronics with or without the truck being on, but at the same time wanting to protect the battery from being accidentally drawn down too much. My approach is similar to the ARB fridge auto turn-off, where I will be using a low voltage cut-off circuit to disconnect the system once the battery voltage level falls too low (should be fully adjustable so I can set how "aggressive" I want to be with it.) Still thinking through the optimal design for the circuit.

Wing top coming together:
20130731_215502.jpg


Outlets starting to take shape:
20130731_173455.jpg


Some detail on how I'm implementing the connections behind the wing face plate. I crafted a little aluminum plate to make a high-strength connection for the air coupling that will be subject to more forces than the typical button presses, etc. that the rest of the face will experience.
20130731_173201.jpg
 

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