Another DIY Drawer Thread - One Side only

[TrekboxX]

I really think that with one drawer it would be fine, but with two drawers it would be difficult. Copy and paste/invert your model to model a second drawer. I may be wrong, but it may prove awkward to access the mechanism...

 

[sonk76]

I really think that with one drawer it would be fine, but with two drawers it would be difficult. Copy and paste/invert your model to model a second drawer. I may be wrong, but it may prove awkward to access the mechanism...

Good question. Based on my model, I'd have about 1 13/16" (little shy of 2") space between the two. Not sure how tight that would feel in practice (will have to go to the shop and mock something up to see...)

 

[hoser]

That's a good point. Btw, when you say the opposite side, do you mean move it to the passenger side (not sure where the rear AC unit is--I know the rear AC controls are on the drivers side)? or do you mean keep it on the drivers side as it is, but just move it to the other end of the box (i.e., towards the 2nd row seats)?

If it's the latter, any thoughts on how to access the plugs? extension cord?

Yes, I was referring to the PS, 3rd row, right behind the cupholders. You would have to remove panel to check the space. Your inverter isn't very large, it might even fit next to the subwoofer. An extension cord would be fine for the high voltage 120V. Chop the female end off and wire to your standard household outlet (consider outlet box).

Or put the inverter in the little cubby hole on the PS.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/242523-second-battery-inverter-isolator-installed.html

 

[TrekboxX]

Hard to tell how much space you have from the pic, but remember you need enough space on top of the latch for your finger. Also, because of your head height relative to the slide, you'll be reaching in blind. Just a thought...

 

[OregonLC]

A few quick thoughts:

• Drawer Lid
  If you ever get stuck with your back toward an obstacle, having the ability to access the drawer from the top would be highly desirable. That's a nice feature.
  
• Slide Table
  Most of those 250+ lbs slides are rated for a flat load. That might give you another option for your table mount. If not, you could add a top slide and have the back be supported by two slides with a fold-down table. Would take up more space, but would be considerably stronger than a single slide as others have posted.
  
• Release Lever
  Is there a way to just slot the front an have just the stub stick out the front rather than notch the side?

Really like all aspects of what you've done. The CAD work is impressive. If you could print out full-size scale templates for both the wings and the anchor holes I'd be willing to shoot you a pay-pal to cover your time and postage. Would be a huge time saver to not have to re-invent that wheel.

 

[sonk76]

Really like all aspects of what you've done. The CAD work is impressive. If you could print out full-size scale templates for both the wings and the anchor holes I'd be willing to shoot you a pay-pal to cover your time and postage. Would be a huge time saver to not have to re-invent that wheel.

Unfortunately, I don't have capabilities for printing full-size templates, but I would be happy to provide the Sketchup files to those interested once I'm done (a free 3D modeling program, previously owned by Google--I'm a big fan.)

Right now, the wing dimensions on my model are approximate. I'm going to take exact measurements once I have the box built and bolted to the truck--will then update the model.

Also, happy to measure the exact bolt locations (this is of course relative to the footprint of the box [i.e., if you have the exact same footprint as mine, and want the box located exactly as I have it, then the holes would work])

 

[sonk76]

Hard to tell how much space you have from the pic, but remember you need enough space on top of the latch for your finger. Also, because of your head height relative to the slide, you'll be reaching in blind. Just a thought...

I thought about this some more, and decided against the experimenting with the side access. I've proceeded with the build with a "front-access" similar to yours.

I'm trying to design a small "cover plate" that would help hide some of the slides from the front-view just to aesthetics (this is an optional part I will make only after all else is done, and if I still have the energy.)

 

[sonk76]

Update

So I've updated my design a bit to incorporate the table-top idea right into the main drawer itself (based on all the feedback here, I decided against placing it in the wing, but at the same time I was convinced I wanted the functionality.) The challenge was to do this while minimizing the loss of space and usability in the main drawer.

So the new implementation is very simple. I've basically placed a 1/2" plywood sheet with a dado cut that can be layed on top of the drawer as it is open, which then turns the entire drawer into a big table. When not in use, it sits on two aluminum L' brackets that have been inlayed into sides of the box (see images below.) So in normal use, you can pull the drawer out and not see the table top in any way, but in case you need it, then you pull it out and it locks in place on top of the open drawer.

Plan is to inlay some cutting board material on part of the "table top" too to make it an instant cutting board as well.

I've already build much of it, so this is the plan for now (no going back...) I'll let you know how it turns out in practice.

Image below shows how the foot-print matches the top of the drawer:

...I also decided to build a mini cubicle on top-of the lock cover to try to find some functional use for the otherwise lost space (It's removable too if you want to use it as a temporary holder for screws/bolts, etc.) In practice, I figure it will be a good place to keep the keys for the drawer, so this way they are ready at hand in case I want to lock it. (it's not actually glued together yet in the picture, just trying out the parts)

Getting the staggered sides to work has proven quite a bit of extra effort, but it's finally coming together.

 

[TrekboxX]

Looking really good! I like the table top idea, just one suggestion- perhaps cut a semicircular cutout on the top center of the rear of the drawer so you can grab the top while the drawer is open. The accuride slides travel about 37" if I remember right, so they'll block access for your hand hold in the table top. Great fab work!

 

[sonk76]

Looking really good! I like the table top idea, just one suggestion- perhaps cut a semicircular cutout on the top center of the rear of the drawer so you can grab the top while the drawer is open. The accuride slides travel about 37" if I remember right, so they'll block access for your hand hold in the table top. Great fab work!

That's a great point. I'll have to test the access as soon as the slides are mounted (hopefully soon). I like the simplicity and practicality of your solution.

 

[hoser]

I like the idea of the inlaid cutting board. I'd dado cut both top and bottom of the board so that the table could be two-sided. Cutting board or table. Keeping the cutting board somewhat clean. Or is that what you already had in mind?

Funny, i was just thinking about adding a table to my ARB drawer in the same way. Except, allowing the table to be pulled out, without the drawer pulled out. That way, if you have items on the tailgate, you can pull the table without having to clear that portion of the tailgate in front of the drawer... well, nothing that is under 9" high.

 

[sonk76]

I like the idea of the inlaid cutting board. I'd dado cut both top and bottom of the board so that the table could be two-sided. Cutting board or table. Keeping the cutting board somewhat clean. Or is that what you already had in mind?

Funny, i was just thinking about adding a table to my ARB drawer in the same way. Except, allowing the table to be pulled out, without the drawer pulled out. That way, if you have items on the tailgate, you can pull the table without having to clear that portion of the tailgate in front of the drawer... well, nothing that is under 9" high.

Good idea on two sided. I'll have to give some thought on that--I had not thought of it before!

I would have preferred what you describe too regarding having that ability to pull out the table even without the drawer. In my design, I struggled with making things work without giving up too much drawer space while having the table at the bottom--I'm sure there is a way to design it that way too, I just found it much easier to minimize space loss by keeping the table at the top (my total vertical space lost due to the table is <3/4" (1/2" for the plywood [technically a little less, for those of you who follow the "actual" sizing of so called 1/2" plywood], and then an extra 1/8" air gap that I wouldn't have otherwise had)

 

[hoser]

Table positioned on the top is fine. Just need to leave a gap on the top of your drawer front so the table can slide over it while the drawer stays closed.

Not sure that would be aesthetically pleasing to you though. The ARB already has a gap in the interest of savings fingers when closing a 150 lb drawer.

 

[sonk76]

Table positioned on the top is fine. Just need to leave a gap on the top of your drawer front so the table can slide over it while the drawer stays closed.

Good point hoser. I misread your earlier post (thought you were describing having the table in the bottom.

I suppose I would have to get some additional slides in order for that functionality to be possible... hmm... (may have to wait for the next drawer...)

 

[hoser]

Here's an example of a slide out cutting board. I don't think it is on roller slides. Maybe just put some HDPE tape on the rails?

 

[Dirty Koala]

Not sure whether you already have onboard fresh water and on-board air, but I think it would be great to use that side wing area to mount the inverter, or at least an outlet wired from the inverter, an OBA outlet and a water outlet.

 

[TrekboxX]

If you do attach a cutting board to one side, make sure to seal the wood well or it will warp like heck. I'm sure you already know that, though, by the looks of your woodworking skills!

Also, if you stick to your design perhaps a simple way of keeping the table from rattling would be a couple of rare earth magnets epoxied into the rear of the table and matching steel screws in the drawer box... Or a couple of rubber bumpers on the back of the drawer face to compress against the table... Just throwing stuff out there!

 

[OregonLC]

How tall are you that a top sliding table would work? I'm 6' and it would be somewhere between bellybutton and nipples, too high to be really useful. 35's and 2-1/2" lift.

Edit: meh, just measured and with a 12" drawer top it would be just above bellybutton, completely doable. Fridge OTOH...

 

[hoser]

That's where you put out the top shelf bottles

 

[sonk76]

If you do attach a cutting board to one side, make sure to seal the wood well or it will warp like heck. I'm sure you already know that, though, by the looks of your woodworking skills!

That's a great point, and really appreciate your calling it out. I'm by no means an experienced woodworker but really enjoy working with my hands (my father is an avid woodworker, and he lets me work in his woodshop), so all advice and thoughts are very welcome.

I've also given some thought to making the entire table top out of HDPE material

For example: http://www.amazon.com/Density-Polyethylene-Plastic-Cutting-Board/dp/B00DPWED0S/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1373380177&sr=8-3&keywords=hdpe+1%2F2%22+x+19%22

I've never worked with this material before (beyond using it as a cutting board in my kitchen), any reasons to consider further or run away?

Also, if you stick to your design perhaps a simple way of keeping the table from rattling would be a couple of rare earth magnets epoxied into the rear of the table and matching steel screws in the drawer box... Or a couple of rubber bumpers on the back of the drawer face to compress against the table... Just throwing stuff out there!

The magnets were part of my current plan actually (not yet in the 3D models I've shared)--especially as I've started to think about away in which I could access part of the table top without opening the drawer, and then having full-access as designed with the drawer fully open...