Another 3B turbo build (1 Viewer)

[Fantom]

So the turbo failed due to a missed step in the rebuild but is now back (fixed under warranty).
Three years ago I did a compression check on my truck, back then it had a lot less kilometers on it and no turbo.
The numbers were:
1 - 505
2 - 510
3 - 475
4 - 500
This was with a hot engine and a good tester.
Now, granted this is done with a cold engine, same tester:
1 - 410
2 - 380
3 - 375
4 - 380

The numbers dropped a little but then again the engine does now have 528,000kms with nothing major done....other then adding a turbo but that rarely helps things.

Would a cold engine affect the numbers much? I suppose it could due to expansion under heat.

 

[ForealBoreal]

try it with a cold engine. I think you will get some better numbers.... You want to do it in the same conditions.

 

[Fantom]

That was with a cold engine.
So I finally got everything assembled and back in, took it for a test run out to Langley and back and she is running great! Better then before actually.
I got 10PSI with the wastegate on, I will test it out with the wastegate bypassed a little later, engages quickly, and no noises or leaks.
Did another compression check, this time with the engine hot,
1 - 420
2 - 420
3 - 410
4 - 420
I'm happy with those numbers, down from 3 years ago and about 100,000kms, but still within spec and all even.

 

[Wheelingnoob]

Looks great! Really nice job.

How do you think this turbo would be on a 2H?

I read that its seeing full boost around 2700RPM would that be much lower on a 2H with the added exhaust volume difference from the 3b?

Any difference in economy? Or about the same just with better performance?

Looking at putting a turbo on my brothers 2H.

Thanks!

Jeremy

 

[Fantom]

Considering this turbo was originally from a 5 Cylinder 3.0L engine, the 2H would be able to handle it easily but the turbo might be a little too small for the engine. What I found with the 3B is that the turbo starts outputting around 1300RPM (under load - 2PSI), if you leave the wastegate connected the unit maxes out at 10PSI around 2400-2500RPM under load.
The reason I say "under load" is because if you're not under load the turbo barely output anything, so when you are downshifting at 2500RPM you get no boost (just in case you didn't know - no offense).
If should work with the 2H.

One thing I did not post up here in relation to the build is this:
When I removed the weird emissions cover on the top of the turbo there is a hole left that connects the turbo output to the air input chamber. If this hole is not plugged it causes the Pressure that the turbo is outputting to feed back into the air input. That hole is the perfecct size for a 1/4NPT plug (once tapped). I would recommend using plumber's tape on the threads to give it a good seal.

 

[mainlander]

Hey Mat, anything new or change on your turbo set up? All still running well?

 

[Fantom]

Still running good, I've set it up with a normally fully engaged waste gate with 10PSI max, and a little setup from parts out of Princess that switches at the flick of a button to 14PSI max. No issues with the setup. I'm still gettting the same amount of blow by as before, which is now just attributed to the older engine and added boost.
On a recent trip I compared my truck, with about 540,000km to another BJ60 with 320,000km (ish) and the same turbo, he was running less stuff int he truck (about 1/2 the weight), and lower gear ratio, on the hills he beat me, on the straights I beat him, in the end he had better fuel economy but I had a lot more stuff and more wind resistance.
If I had to do it again I would still run this set up.