Analysis paralysis: roof racks.... tips, tricks, opinions, experiences. Discuss.

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DRANGED

Adulting: "But after this week, it'll get easier."
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Moab
So,

I've been paralyzing myself with roof rack questions and analyses.

Aluminum track-based or steel mesh/grate-based? Do I go DIY to copy/mimic a production rack/platform or just go with a known production rack?

I want that added strength of aftermarket (static and dynamic (on and off-road) load strength) and I like the gadgets of track-based AND I like the "just strap whatever wherever" of the mesh/grate/cage-based platforms, ergo I respect the merits or each platform. I say platform over basket mainly for low-profile and maintaining garage access.

I currently run an aftermarket generic 42ish" by 42ish" basket and was trying to find it's center extension, but in specing it out, by gaining the 26" center the basket would then be 20" overhang from the front-most and rear-most positions of the stock crossbars. among other weaknesses in the system, I want to do something about upgrading the roof-top carrying ability.

I understand high COG so minimizing what goes up there is a variable and I also like the idea of putting things like fuel jerries/jerrys/geris (whatever spelling ;) ) out of the passenger compartment (though I have a sceptor)...

Not expedition use, because A: what does that mean in the States anyway but B: that's not a realistic goal, although some of the expo goods make family-based car camping easier and more dialed and comfy, like an awning. 🤪😈
I mount a roof box on sometimes (makes for good soft-goods storage on road trips) and the basket for multi-day off-road camping/"expeditions" in the radius of home. Bikes go on a hitch rack so not upstairs.

I was going the Gamiviti tower route and thinking of building up a DIY extruded Aluminum platform off those, but getting good corners is kind of a crux with T-nutz or 80/20. I like the utilitarian and basic design of baja, gamiviti, SSO, and the like and could probably fab something that would mount to G's towers, but is this a case where built over bought isn't worth the hassle? I like that Prinsu uses standard slotted extruded Aluminum (thus the 80/20 ideas) and that standard bolts fit in the slots (depending on 6mm vs 8mm in aftermarket designs) and many other brands' gadgets would/could prossibly fit too, but production versions have features somewhat difficult to recreate (like sleek profile, fit and finish, corners, main structure vs. slotted bars, etc.).
Yay engineering, boo co$t to end-user for said rad engineering ;-/

I like that Rhino Rack has longitudinal tracks vs. competitor's transverse crossbars, but only 4 tracks (although wide platforms as stable bases) plus the pair of tracks in the outside bars of the platform (see pioneer platform or pioneer elevations) and they use channel-based main crossbeams for the platforms to mount to (ergo DIY with Unistrut or similar then extruded Al? 🤔 ) Other racks (front runner, Prinsu, etc.) ) don't sell their towers/rails separately BUT Rhino rack has the backbone system, which is what I kind of prefer over 3 pairs of towers... Something in my brains suggests a unified rail, attaching at all 6 factory mounting locations, would distribute load more evenly (of course depending how the load is fitted ON the eventual rack/platform ;) )

BUT the part number RTPB2, spec'd for Prado 120/GX 470, doesn't show on Rhino Rack USA's site . . . the GX 460/ Prado 150 backbone is available Stateside however...but this doesn't exact-fit, per design, a 470.

1936170

1936450
1936448




Let's see what you've got, what you use it for, what you like and dislike about it, and if you did it again which way would you go?
 
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With a kid that badass looking, I would just open up my sunroof and tell him what to hold on to.

Honestly, though, this is the same thing I've been going through, so I'm curious what people's thoughts are, also. I am planning similar use for my setup (awning support plus can-carrying), except I will also need to get skis up top in the Winter. That could be done with a topbox, but the ability to add ski/board clamps would be a plus. This may limit me to the transverse bar-style.
 
With a kid that badass looking, I would just open up my sunroof and tell him what to hold on to.

@MaverickFiveO Dude! You made my day/week!!! 🤙😆👍
Proud poppa here!! That kid is pretty rad though, for sure!

Yeah, RE: slotted racks. The Prinsu makes me think one could DIY a decent rack (T-nutz for crossbars, 80/20 for fittings) and there are some on TY, and the Baja and Rhino steel mesh trays make me think one could fab a similar (best DIY I've seen so far: ).
RE: bikes and skis, the aftermarket has support for fitting those to slotted bars. I agree with transverse bars (like Prinsu) it'd be easier to attach extant or new attachments (jeri holders, bike rack, roof boxes, etc.) vs. longitudinal (like Rhino Rack's tray). Incidentally.. It kind of looks to me like the Rhino Rack slotted bars are the same as Front Runner's ... just length-wise vs. cross-wise. hey're both wide and with a single track... Prinsu's are just extruded aluminum, in fact on the Tnutz site, they spec for Prinsu racks too... Incidentally, T-nutz has grown with respect to fittings and bracing over the last year....

I'm working through in my mind how to fab a crossbar set for a Rhino Rack tray to attach the roof box, that's also work for ski racks and such, but yeah, Prinsu and Frontrunner are set up cross-wise and would be easier for such fitting, or a DIY with extruded aluminum.....

BTW, I was able to fab Rhino Rack's supplied awning hardware to fit their bracket to my stock side rails (it's in my build thread)... But similar bracketry could be fabbed from flat steel or even a shelf-bracket from hardware store, with a vice, grinder/hacksaw, file and BFH and some unistrut caming nuts.
 
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I went through several DIY iterations to get to where we are, including:

1) Steel mesh rhino rack on top of factory bars (looked silly and was wobbly)

2) Steel mesh rhino rack on top of Gamiviti towers (stable but some wind noise, no real center support)

3) Steel mesh rhino rack on 80/20 cross bars on Gamiviti towers (crazy noisy with all the metal-on-metal vibrations)

4) Sold rhino rack and added 72" 80/20 bars along the length of the car with 3 horizontal 80/20 bars on the Gamiviti towers (sturdy, some wind noise and not the right "look")

5) Added a plywood wind fairing to the front cross bar just behind the windshield, but had to remove it due to wild oscillating at highway speed. The 72" 80/20 wasn't stiff enough to prevent flexing in the unsupported front section.

6) Added two short vertical supports under the front cross bar with suction cup feet and put the wind fairing back on. Perfection!

We don't load up the roof with gear, it has the awning and mounts for a shovel and axe. I wanted to keep it low and unobtrusive, and be able to throw a kayak/canoe on it when needed. In the winter I toss my skis/snowboard up there while I dress. I really like the ability to add stuff to the 80/20, but corner construction like you mentioned can be a pain. There are maybe 80 t-nuts on it! Not sure where I am cost wise but at least I'm finally happy with it. FWIW I wish I could afford a prinsu style rack.
 
Well that is impressive! Got a parts list?
 
@James C cool rack idea, but I have to ask..how long have you had that plate and what was it on originally?
 
I went through several DIY iterations to get to where we are, including:

1) Steel mesh rhino rack on top of factory bars (looked silly and was wobbly)

2) Steel mesh rhino rack on top of Gamiviti towers (stable but some wind noise, no real center support)

3) Steel mesh rhino rack on 80/20 cross bars on Gamiviti towers (crazy noisy with all the metal-on-metal vibrations)

4) Sold rhino rack and added 72" 80/20 bars along the length of the car with 3 horizontal 80/20 bars on the Gamiviti towers (sturdy, some wind noise and not the right "look")

5) Added a plywood wind fairing to the front cross bar just behind the windshield, but had to remove it due to wild oscillating at highway speed. The 72" 80/20 wasn't stiff enough to prevent flexing in the unsupported front section.

6) Added two short vertical supports under the front cross bar with suction cup feet and put the wind fairing back on. Perfection!

We don't load up the roof with gear, it has the awning and mounts for a shovel and axe. I wanted to keep it low and unobtrusive, and be able to throw a kayak/canoe on it when needed. In the winter I toss my skis/snowboard up there while I dress. I really like the ability to add stuff to the 80/20, but corner construction like you mentioned can be a pain. There are maybe 80 t-nuts on it! Not sure where I am cost wise but at least I'm finally happy with it. FWIW I wish I could afford a prinsu style rack.


@James C
Yeah, that's kind of the basic frame I was considering (although you have more stout plate bracing), but I was thinking the 2 channel or better yet, the 3-channel as crossbars, which might afford more rigidity compared to the 1x1 crossbars. But I don't think that's what you were going for in your build.

I've seen folks use the 1x2 and 1x3 as crossbars in the factory side rails okay, but it gets close to the roof at center (w/i 0.5") and fore-aft they're not level as there's a slight arch to the siderails and roofline. Thus, enter the height-adjustable gamiviti (as you're running) towers to bridge roof to a comprehensive extruded Al rack. I was thinking the 1/4 round 1x1 for the outside laterals. FWIW, I've been comparing and tnutz seems the same extruded as 80/20 but way le$$ and tnutz has grown their fittings options over the last year too.

Side rails track bottom (makes 1/4 round curve down, but top track would be more functional) and inside
and they have these angle braces for corners and these round 1/4 corners that might be better yet...
1939074

1939076
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As I mentioned, it's interesting they spec some 1x2s for "Prinsu" racks too, but I think they're just precut to Prinsu lengths.
 
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@DRANGED
Nice, I hadn't even heard of tnutz before - if it's a better price I say go for it. If you ran 1x2 or 1x3 between the towers it would be a lot stiffer, and then you could do the 1x1 or quarter rounds laterally to tie it all together. I guess it really depends on where you want the load.

@subspd
I could probably put together a list of the 80/20 rails, plates and fittings and count the exact number of t-nuts, but the 1/4" bolts are in several different lengths depending on their location so that wouldn't be exact. Let's just say it took a lot of trips down to Lowe's for bolts.

@CO_Hunter
License plate? We've had it for about a year (very lame personal meaning to my wife and me :p). 5HKxxxx came with it when we purchased. Why?

Did @Formations ever get to a production point with the Prinsu-style rack?
 
From the pic in post 5 it looked like one the vintage brown and yellow CA license plates.
 
Oh, yep. They have a new one of those now as a vanity plate. Pretty popular out here because they basically look black
 
The square 80-20 would be noisy due to the slot and the wind resistance.

I make one for 100 series years ago. Use Bosch 50 mm X 12 mm framing and it look much more streamline.
 
The square 80-20 would be noisy due to the slot and the wind resistance.

I make one for 100 series years ago. Use Bosch 50 mm X 12 mm framing and it look much more streamline.
They make singe, double and triple non-slotted (ergo 4 slot-square, 3 slot square, 2 slot square and 1 slot square.) and I believe 80/20 has a rubber insert for a leading edge slot that gives it a rounded surface of attack.
So there are options. The extrudes Al is kinda limitless...
 
Has anyone tried 4 factory oem cross bars on the stock oem side rails?

Then drilling two holes per crossbar to fit the front runner tie down rings?

I rarely use the roof rack, but I could ocassionally put things up there such as bulky lightweight stuff like sleeping bags, pillows, ground tents, etc in cargo bags?
 
Has anyone tried 4 factory oem cross bars on the stock oem side rails?

Then drilling two holes per crossbar to fit the front runner tie down rings?

I rarely use the roof rack, but I could ocassionally put things up there such as bulky lightweight stuff like sleeping bags, pillows, ground tents, etc in cargo bags?

Unless you have found some really cheap oem cross bars from a junk yard or a part-out, two of them (part number 63409-60040, or 63409-60090) will cost you more than actual Frontrunner load bars. If you really need four bars to use occasionally, you can just buy cheap generic bars on ebay for $50/pair that clamps on your roof rack side rails.
 
I was thinking of buying or inheriting for cheap used oem cross bars from someone who is upgrading to a 3rd party roof rack
 
Anyone tried the Rago Fabrication modular rail system? It is pretty low profile, seems like it would be decently capable and still retains the stock look.
 
I haven’t but was looking at it the other night. It’s nice and maybe it’s just me but seems very pricey for what it is
 

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