I do a lot of off-roading and overlanding, often in the high temps of the desert SW. My 200 is heavy with lots of aftermarket add ons, bumpers, skids, sliders, rack, etc. My OEM radiator is at the end of its life. I’m looking for a quality aluminum radiator that can provide better cooling. Anyone know of a good current manufacturer?
Aluminum Radiator
- Thread starter AZAA
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Are you seeing high coolant temps via ODB Fusion or similar? Any reason to not throw another OEM (updated version) in and go another 200k?
Looks like you’re in AZ so you’re definitely seeing some of the hottest temps in the country but I thought these beasts were built just for this as is.
Looks like you’re in AZ so you’re definitely seeing some of the hottest temps in the country but I thought these beasts were built just for this as is.
- Thread starter
- #5
Yes, I've already contacted them!
bloc
SILVER Star
IMO you'll never surpass toyota's testing and design standards on something like cooling a landcruiser. The updated part from late 2018 will have seen far more validation than even CSF puts into their stuff.
Toss in the new genuine toyota part and drive on. As long as the rest of your cooling system is healthy you will not have water temp issues.
For the record at 200k you should be looking at fan support bearing bracket and clutch. I'd also consider thoroughly cleaning your AC condenser core.
Toss in the new genuine toyota part and drive on. As long as the rest of your cooling system is healthy you will not have water temp issues.
For the record at 200k you should be looking at fan support bearing bracket and clutch. I'd also consider thoroughly cleaning your AC condenser core.
Moby
GOLD Star
The other consideration with going AL is mounts. AL is a lot less tolerant to flex than copper/brass. I put a Ron Davis "direct fit" into my FJ-62/2FE with the biggest electric fan I could fit. Not only did it not cool anywhere near as well as OEM rad/mechanical fan but it cracked. And Ron Davis told me, effectively, that it was my fault for mounting a radiator marketed as direct fit as, well, a direct fit. I'm not saying all AL radiators in a stock location will crack but it is something to ask the manufacturer about if you do go AL.
bloc
SILVER Star
This.
OEMs didn’t move to plastic end tanks solely because it is cheap. Definitely a factor, but the polymers give other advantages.
In general principle, there aren’t any better radiators for any model of land cruiser than the one Toyota uses.
My take on it is — the only time to move to an aftermarket radiator is when Toyota has discontinued the original.
My take on it is — the only time to move to an aftermarket radiator is when Toyota has discontinued the original.
@AZAA what did you end up getting?
My radiator cracked at the head at 85K! Not sure if this was a result of any other fault. Car seemed to be working fine since my few weeks of ownership. I had not noticed any overheating and it still isn't overheating but definitely interested in getting the best radiator I can since I am going to be adding bigger tires and extra weight.
My radiator cracked at the head at 85K! Not sure if this was a result of any other fault. Car seemed to be working fine since my few weeks of ownership. I had not noticed any overheating and it still isn't overheating but definitely interested in getting the best radiator I can since I am going to be adding bigger tires and extra weight.
Related to cooling, perhaps consistent cooling with time, I have opted to install this mesh behind the grill shortly after I purchased my LC at 5 miles to prevent bugs (there are lots of them) and any stones (unlikely, but possible) from hitting the radiator, oil cooler and AC condensor. Everything important still looks brand new 2-1/2 years later.
Very happy with it and cleaning, including removing bugs has become really easy.
Very happy with it and cleaning, including removing bugs has become really easy.
Last edited:
bloc
SILVER Star
Incredibly common. The updated Genuine Toyota part solves the issue.
2008-2018 Radiator Failure and Public Service Announcement
Edited by Moderator to change date range in title Curious who else has had a failure of their radiator on their 200 of the 08-10 model years by a crack on the top next to the molded in platform. I got lucky and found mine before it was catastrophic. I notified @TexAZ because I know his truck...
forum.ih8mud.com
Thanks for the link. Yeah I guess it is common. So is there a need for additional cooling capacity for heavier rigs in general?Incredibly common. The updated Genuine Toyota part solves the issue.
2008-2018 Radiator Failure and Public Service Announcement
Edited by Moderator to change date range in title Curious who else has had a failure of their radiator on their 200 of the 08-10 model years by a crack on the top next to the molded in platform. I got lucky and found mine before it was catastrophic. I notified @TexAZ because I know his truck...
Have pics?
bloc
SILVER Star
No. I’ve been very active in this section for five years and cannot remember a single credible report of temperature issues on a rig with a healthy well-maintained cooling system.
This means as miles go up and up components like the fan clutch and support bracket should be changed as PM.. but IMO you aren’t there yet. Im thinking more like 150-200k, based on what I’ve seen from my 185k mile cruiser and others posting here.
Low resolution pic (zoom in of existing photo) of the insect screen mesh which I bought on aliexpress.
Had to trim it to fit around the logo/radar setup. With a bit of search there maybe one which already has a cut out for it.
Even though low cost, made of plastic (mesh insert is actually stainless steel) and basic mounting setup, it has stayed in place with zero issues for the last 2-1/2 years.
At purchase back in Dec 2020 I was thinking if it works, great, then it keeps everything clean and neat and if it does not, say it goes lose, it will just sit in front of the radiator without the risk of touching any moving parts. Been perfectly fine though including driving in heavy rain and wind conditions. One of the best low cost upgrades I have applied.
Last edited:
bloc
SILVER Star
In firefighting we sometimes use a tactic called positive pressure attack, where we'll point a very powerful fan into the front door and break the window of the fire room, at which point the fan creates a flow path taking much of the smoke and heat out of the rest of the house. It's pretty dramatic how quickly the conditions can improve inside while the fire is still burning, making the rest of the structure more survivable for victims, much easier for us to operate to find victims and find & put out the fire. It is ultimately making a very very low, but still increased, pressure situation at the front door to force the air/smoke out the lower pressure environment outside that window.
Having a screen on the fire room window cuts that flow path down dramatically. Like 75% reduction or more. Granted, this is a very low pressure scenario, but I'm not sure how much pressure is created at the grille either. Or how much that restricts flow compared to the already restrictive condenser/radiator/etc.
Our cooling systems are very robust.. I don't think having that mesh grille guard would cause any real temperature concerns, but my gut is telling me it will have an impact and the fan is going to have to pick up the slack. Edit: whether this is a significant amount of slack pickup or not probably has to do with other elements of a build.. how much harder is the vehicle having to work to go 75mph from front bumper, rack, tires, etc.
Having a screen on the fire room window cuts that flow path down dramatically. Like 75% reduction or more. Granted, this is a very low pressure scenario, but I'm not sure how much pressure is created at the grille either. Or how much that restricts flow compared to the already restrictive condenser/radiator/etc.
Our cooling systems are very robust.. I don't think having that mesh grille guard would cause any real temperature concerns, but my gut is telling me it will have an impact and the fan is going to have to pick up the slack. Edit: whether this is a significant amount of slack pickup or not probably has to do with other elements of a build.. how much harder is the vehicle having to work to go 75mph from front bumper, rack, tires, etc.
Last edited:
With that low pressure of a fan/system you might be right on the cusp of laminar-ish vs turbulent airflow or something like that. Given the number of aftermarket mesh or sort of enclosed grilles on the market, I wouldn’t sweat it too much. At higher speeds you’re ramming a ton of air into the front of these rolling bricks. At lower speeds, make sure your fan clutch and fan blades are in good condition and I bet it’s totally fine.
I don't think putting a mesh there is a good idea and more than certainly will compromise airflow at speed. It's solving a problem that isn't there IMO. If towing at all, or using it in any high load situation, I would really recommend taking that off. Speaking as someone that works in the aeronautical field.
To the OPs question, I wouldn't opt for an aftermarket radiator. If it comes down to cooling performance, my bet would be on the factory radiator to have more surface area with denser pitch fins.
About the only cooling issues I've seen on these forums (other than that typical crack) are the ones self inflicted with the addition of bumpers and armor, or removing the top radiator baffle from the engine bay. Under armor if not designed right can really impact airflow through the engine bay
I've towed a combined 15k load in 115F weather. The cooling system in the 200-series is robust and handled it without a sweat. Guess that would be expected as these vehicles are commonly used and abused in some of the hottest places in the middle east. On sand no less.
That said, I will be upgrading the tranny cooler before summer. At a scaled 15,620lbs, I've been able to trip the auto transmission hot temp logic at 266F on more extreme grades, where it goes into a more regimented torque converter lock-up strategy to reduce heat. It's managing okay to prevent from tripping the overtemp at 302F. But I'd like to help it out with a larger tranny cooler.
To the OPs question, I wouldn't opt for an aftermarket radiator. If it comes down to cooling performance, my bet would be on the factory radiator to have more surface area with denser pitch fins.
About the only cooling issues I've seen on these forums (other than that typical crack) are the ones self inflicted with the addition of bumpers and armor, or removing the top radiator baffle from the engine bay. Under armor if not designed right can really impact airflow through the engine bay
I've towed a combined 15k load in 115F weather. The cooling system in the 200-series is robust and handled it without a sweat. Guess that would be expected as these vehicles are commonly used and abused in some of the hottest places in the middle east. On sand no less.
That said, I will be upgrading the tranny cooler before summer. At a scaled 15,620lbs, I've been able to trip the auto transmission hot temp logic at 266F on more extreme grades, where it goes into a more regimented torque converter lock-up strategy to reduce heat. It's managing okay to prevent from tripping the overtemp at 302F. But I'd like to help it out with a larger tranny cooler.
bloc
SILVER Star
Again I don't think it'll necessarily overheat the truck, but I do believe it will make the fan work harder than it would otherwise.
Plus yes the airflow is much greater, but so is the required horsepower which moves far more heat through the cooling system than low-speed driving.
The 80-series put a ton of strain on the fan clutch just from having lights on the bumper spaced multiple inches out from the grille. There would still be a ton of air ramming into the grille at freeway speeds even with the lights.
