Alternator Harness Clip Broke (1 Viewer)

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Time to get some IH8Mud advice. In the process of replacing my 100 series alternator the snap or "push down" plastic piece of the harness that plugs into the back of the alternator that keeps it secured broke. The plastic connector is perfect otherwise and does plug into the alternator but I fear that it will wiggle loose on the road/trail without being secured by the pressure clip. What is everyone's thoughts? Should I pin a new connector or is there some brilliant hack to keep that plug in that someone knows about and would like to share? The space under there is so tight I dread pinning a new connector.
 
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This little clip is what broke off. Otherwise the connector is fine.
Screen Shot 2021-11-16 at 9.01.43 PM.png
 
The space is certainly tight. I've turned my steering wheel fully passenger (right) and removed the front fender skirt and you get a clear view of it all. For me, the hardest part of changing the alternator is separating that connector. The thing nearly fuses together over time. Replacing is the best option but I think an acceptable hack would be to heat shrink tube over the entire connector!
 
The space is certainly tight. I've turned my steering wheel fully passenger (right) and removed the front fender skirt and you get a clear view of it all. For me, the hardest part of changing the alternator is separating that connector. The thing nearly fuses together over time. Replacing is the best option but I think an acceptable hack would be to heat shrink tube over the entire connector!
I wish I had thought about turning the wheel before doing all this. I have seen some mention of taking the tire off as well. I might try the shrink tube but I'm not sure there is anything for the shrink tube to grab onto on the alternator side. I'll take a look in the am.
 
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This one is staying in the family. 2000 LX470 for my daughter. I needs to be reliable as possible. Strangely though, out of an LC 80 series, Lexus 100 series, and LC 200 series, the LX470 has given me the most issues, but to it's credit it just passed 310K on the ODO.
 
Use silicone tape- it should hold it, stand up to the heat and be relatively easy to remove.
 
Hmm, now we're getting there but that connector is the outside connector. The piece it plugs into on the alternator goes inside the wire harness connector but I can try this.
 
The space is certainly tight. I've turned my steering wheel fully passenger (right) and removed the front fender skirt and you get a clear view of it all. For me, the hardest part of changing the alternator is separating that connector. The thing nearly fuses together over time. Replacing is the best option but I think an acceptable hack would be to heat shrink tube over the entire connector!
Same. I probably struggled for a good hour getting the plugs on the back of the alternator off.
 
It really was hard to get off but now that that pressure clip has broken it comes off so easy, hence my issue.
 
I've put zip ties around the outer edges before until I order another housing. The park neutral connector is particularly difficult to fix.

Honestly, I've done this on a ton of connectors. I always have a broken one waiting on me or waiting on connectors.

In the alternators case I'd probably cut it and re solder the pigtail that everyone should have when they go after that job.
 
Alternator Connector Thread with part No
I should have read this thread first.
Yes. I had the same issue and replaced the plug with an oem part. No cutting of wires needed. Wire ends with terminals are removed one at a time from the old plug and then inserted into the new one.It's not to bad with the alternator removed, lots of room to work underneath, but probablly near impossible with it installed.
 
I'm going to tell everyone that replaces their alternator to be smart and have an extra connector ($7) on hand so you don't have to stop mid-install to hunt down a new one after the one you pulled off the alternator crumbles in your hand. I also think, as long the pins are intact and not damaged from the old connector, buying a new F-type connector is easier and better than buying one of the pigtails you see on Ebay.

Part #
90980-11349 worked beautifully for a 2000 LX470 (this is the 3 wire connector)

  1. Remove the pins from old connector (I used precision flathead screwdriver to release each one)

  2. Insert each pin into the same position in the new connector until you hear it click

  3. Once all three pins are in pull out the white plastic lock from the open face of the connector

  4. Pull the boot cover back over the connector and insert until you hear it click into the new alternator

Screen Shot 2021-11-17 at 10.05.26 PM.png
 
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This one is staying in the family. 2000 LX470 for my daughter. I needs to be reliable as possible.
It needs to be as reliable as possible for EVERYONE who is going to drive it. Now and in the future.

Shouldn't even be a question.

Fix it correctly. Yeah, its tight in there....its no fun, so what. Do it.

Compare the little bit of trouble it is to fix it now (when and where you want to) to being stranded someplace (no doubt at the worse possible time).
 
It needs to be as reliable as possible for EVERYONE who is going to drive it. Now and in the future.

Shouldn't even be a question.

Fix it correctly. Yeah, its tight in there....its no fun, so what. Do it.

Compare the little bit of trouble it is to fix it now (when and where you want to) to being stranded someplace (no doubt at the worse possible time).
I agree with you and this connector makes this an OEM perfect and simple fix.
 
Does anyone know the part number for the weather boot that covers this connector? Mine is ripped and I would like to replace it.
 
To clarify I am looking for this connector cover for the rear circled in red. It has a part number 82821-30510 but it comes up empty on all my part searches.

Alternator Connector Cover1.jpg
 

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