Alternator Harness Clip Broke

[awesomeissquid]

To clarify I am looking for this connector cover for the rear circled in red. It has a part number 82821-30510 but it comes up empty on all my part searches.

View attachment 2978673

Closing the loop on this for anyone in the future. Spoke with my parts guy at the local Toyota. The part number on the boot does not come up in any of their databases. The only conclusion we came up with is the boot is only provided as part of the wiring harness itself and is not available separately.

 

[jerryb]

i searched for 30 minutes on this last week or whenever. best i came up with after looking at real OEM catalogs from yaziki sumi etc.

short of oem harness.
I'd order an assortment of something like this if I was in that position. Yes, from ali.

yaziki rubber plastic boot wire cover alternator terminal sumi toyota nissan positive insulator

 

[awesomeissquid]

i searched for 30 minutes on this last week or whenever. best i came up with after looking at real OEM catalogs from yaziki sumi etc.

short of oem harness.
I'd order an assortment of something like this if I was in that position. Yes, from ali.

View attachment 2989665
yaziki rubber plastic boot wire cover alternator terminal sumi toyota nissan positive insulator

Good find! I am going to attempt gluing my ripped boot back together as a first fix. If that doesn’t work I will decide if I want to go your route or swap the connector and alternator for the four pin, 150amp alt in the newer models.

 

[2020 Rocks]

When this happened to me I used liquid electrical tape, once dried followed by black electrickity tape.

 

[Flipped Bezel]

i searched for 30 minutes on this last week or whenever. best i came up with after looking at real OEM catalogs from yaziki sumi etc.

short of oem harness.
I'd order an assortment of something like this if I was in that position. Yes, from ali.

View attachment 2989665
yaziki rubber plastic boot wire cover alternator terminal sumi toyota nissan positive insulator

This post is not related to the boot or 3 pin connector posted here, but would anyone happen to know the late model OEM 4 pin connector number offhand? I've done several searches and read through a few long alternator threads and still unable to find the Toyota (or equivalent) part number. I have found aftermarket plugs (with terminals inserted already) on ebay and similar sites but having trouble finding OEM connector housing. On the aftermarket ones, I am not sure if the center locking tab can be pulled to remove the pigtails and use only the connector housing. I don't want to cut/splice but use the original terminals if possible.

I have an alternator replacement job coming up and wanting to have this on hand in case mine breaks upon removal. Thanks in advance!

 

[hoser]

@Flipped Bezel The 4-pin connector is (PN 90980-11964). It is possible to carefully de-pin them off the old connector and install them on the new one. If you botch the pins, the pigtails are (PN 82998-12440).

 

[Flipped Bezel]

@Flipped Bezel The 4-pin connector is (PN 90980-11964). It is possible to carefully de-pin them off the old connector and install them on the new one. If you botch the pins, the pigtails are (PN 82998-12440).

Thank you very much!

For some reason I could not find this number anywhere even after reading through a few double digit page threads on alternators and performing my best google fu.....

 

[Ming89FJ62]

Have you reached out to @Coolerman?

 

[DownByTheRiver]

Just to clarify here, the connector has to be removed to de-pin from the front, correct?

 

[awesomeissquid]

Just to clarify here, the connector has to be removed to de-pin from the front, correct?

Correct. You will disconnect the connector on the back of the alternator and then there are a few clips into the fender that can be removed so the pinning can be done from the top of the engine.

 

[DownByTheRiver]

Thanks, ordered a new connector from the dealer earlier. Was hoping it was like every other connector ever made

I cannot get that thing off to save my life. I may have to destroy it. My lug is also welded to the nut via rust. Insane.

 

[wrigh003]

Struggled with this whole fun circus when I redid my alternator last summer. It was bad enough that the truck was parked in the back yard a few weeks- too hot to work on it and just SUPER frustrating, so it sat. I have gorilla hands and was trying not to just hulk smash the old one. Had to, eventually, but learned in that process I shoulda just done that from the start and then just taken the pins from the old connector, put into new connector, plug to new alternator, done.
So, order of ops:

• Order new connector
• Unbolt alternator
• smoosh old connector with channel locks and rip it out, realizing in process that it wasn't ever coming out with just hand pressure
• Put old pins into brand new connector, leaned over top of engine compartment
• Replace old alt with new
  • Fun subthread- replace power steering lines from reservioir that leaked all into the old alternator and probably killed it
• Done

Also- the ripped boot? I'm pretty sure mine's either missing or wasn't there to start. The connector itself is waterproof, mostly, so the boot is just another layer of passive protection. Either just tape it up with electrical tape or whatever seems right. It's not gonna hurt or help anything either way except to look OEM if someone ever eyeballs the back of your alternator, which as you know isn't gonna happen.

 

[DownByTheRiver]

HA! Damn you must've put some bad juju on me, because as I was trying to get the alternator connector off just now, the power steering line started spraying! The other picture is how I handled the alternator connector not coming off.

Just put an order in for the new lines for 500 DOLLARS. Makes me sick, but I'm leaving town Sunday and don't have a choice.

 

[wrigh003]

HA! Damn you must've put some bad juju on me, because as I was trying to get the alternator connector off just now, the power steering line started spraying! The other picture is how I handled the alternator connector not coming off.

Just put an order in for the new lines for 500 DOLLARS. Makes me sick, but I'm leaving town Sunday and don't have a choice.

View attachment 3057510

View attachment 3057512

I used Gates 3/8 and 5/8 high pressure line to replace those and it was about $30 total. I wasn't gonna pay the OEM cost. I'm sure someone will be right by to tell me how my car's about to explode, but they've been secure, not leaking, and there for over a year.

I'd cancel that $500 order and swing by Autozone or Advance and see if they've got bulk hose.

 

[hoser]

@wrigh003 How did you terminate the Gates high pressure hose?

 

[BnvS]

@wrigh003 How did you terminate the Gates high pressure hose?

Terminate I thought the power steering line's just fit right into the power steering reservoir no? Now I dont know if it changes on the bottom when connecting it to the power steering pump itself.... Is that what you are referring to @hoser

 

[hoser]

This is the $500 hose (44410-60510) that goes to/from the power steering rack. One side does return fluid into the reservoir but the other side is the high pressure side (circled in red) that goes from the pump to the rack. Approximately 1500 psi... like your brake lines.

I'm an OE guy but I couldn't stomach the cost. I went with aftermarket for ~$100. Sitting in the garage waiting to be installed.

 

[wrigh003]

@wrigh003 How did you terminate the Gates high pressure hose?

Just regular stainless worm gear hose clamps. I believe the hard lines/ high pressure are between the pump and rack, the reservoir supply and return lines to/from the pump are less pressurized, and that was what was leaking so badly on my truck. 20yrs and 230k of driving and they were pretty porous.