So I go out to start my cruiser this morning and nothing, completely dead. I have a dual battery setup and both batteries where drained. Once I got a jump and the engine was running the voltage would completely dropped off on the gauge at idle. Once I started driving the voltage would come back up.
Not enough for info for me to fully damn the alt/VR, but I'm asking why BOTH batts were discharged? What kinda dual batt setup ya running?
As far as the alt, Anyone know how to 'full field' a Toy alt?
Checking output during a quick full field test would tell ya without doubt if the alt/VR were bad. I'd clean/inspect all the connections, fully recharge the batts, and only then recheck the system (don't overlook belt tightness) and determine if the alt is bad. Back to the connections for a moment... Realize that the alt senses system voltage and determines if charging should occur. Resistance in this 'sensing' circuit or connections will allow the alt to undercharge.
arrggg sounds like a drain. I bet if you charge them back up, run the rig for a day and when you get home take off both neg. ground terminals the rig will start the next day.
arrggg sounds like a drain. I bet if you charge them back up, run the rig for a day and when you get home take off both neg. ground terminals the rig will start the next day.
If you drain a regular battery down completely, you really want to put it on a charger. The alernator can do it but better not to put the drain on it. The dual battery setups like yours should be able to handle charging one from a complete drain.
Did you leave a light on in the cab? You can pull fuses with it off and put a current meter in and see where the load is coming from if you have one. You can start with the battery connection just make sure your meter can handle it in case you got a big parastic load (high current).
If you drain a regular battery down completely, you really want to put it on a charger. The alernator can do it but better not to put the drain on it. The dual battery setups like yours should be able to handle charging one from a complete drain.
Did you leave a light on in the cab? You can pull fuses with it off and put a current meter in and see where the load is coming from if you have one. You can start with the battery connection just make sure your meter can handle it in case you got a big parastic load (high current).
Nope, no lights on. The cab lights are LED's anyways. I doubt one of them could drain two batteries. What do you mean by this, "the dual battery setups like yours should be able to handle charging one from a complete drain."
After work I will have to do some investigation into the drain.
I meant some people with dual batteries have a marine battery they discharge fully and use the main battery to run on. Think the isolator can handle charging a dead battery slowly with a good main one. I would atleast pull the main battery and charge it on a charger. A alternator is not made to charge a completely dead battery. It is better for the batteries and alternator to put them on a charger so you can avoid the added stress ot the alternator.
I agree the LED's would not do that. Sounds like you have a short somewhere to kill the batteries like that or a big load. Like a broken bulb or something getting shorted.
I'll 2nd the above; do not rely on the alt to recharge a drained battery. Use a a decent charger, like one that is microprocessor controlled if you have the option. However, a manual one will still charge better than a alt. You know the alt never fully charges a batt during normal use, it's just a function of the beast.
So the drain was caused by a 12 volt aux plug I wired into my rear storage boxes. Pretty obvious really because it was new to the system. I wanted to do some testing first though to be certain that was the problem. I wired the plug directly off the battery (w/ a fuse) so I could have power at the plug with the vehicle off. I didn't think it would be a problem but something is obviously not right. I don't see why the plug would cause a drain though, unless it is shorted internally or something. Basically the plug is like an open circuit until something is plugged into it, right? No load no drain.
On another note. Hopefully I didn't ruin my alternator because I drove around earlier and basically charged the dead batteries with my alternator. I know you guys say this is bad, but how bad on the alt is it really?
Damn Hillbilly got this one!
I got thrown by the fact that both batts were dead. I'd take a hard look at your isolator system (looks like it's built off the Ford solenoid idea) it ain't too hot in the 'isolation' dept.
As far as your latest questions, the plug and circuit is dead per se, until a full circuit is completed, whether that be by a device plugged in, or by an abnormal short.
Basically the plug is like an open circuit until something is plugged into it, right? No load no drain.
On another note. Hopefully I didn't ruin my alternator because I drove around earlier and basically charged the dead batteries with my alternator. I know you guys say this is bad, but how bad on the alt is it really?
Thats right it should be an open circuit until you plug something into it. I wired a 12V plug to my rear cargo area and it has a fuse. I would look over the wiring again and make sure nothing is exposed.
I am sure your alternator is probably fine but it just puts a big load on it and things can get hot with the constant stress. I have driven mine home with a dead battery after getting a jump but it goes on the charger when I get home. The new microprocessor controlled ones work well and are not much.
If everything looks fine, I would start with changing the fuse on the wire going to the outlet.
I got thrown by the fact that both batts were dead. I'd take a hard look at your isolator system (looks like it's built off the Ford solenoid idea) it ain't too hot in the 'isolation' dept.
I talked w/ Darren (12voltguy) whom I got the setup from. There was a misunderstanding on my part as to what position the three-way switch that comes with the kit was supposed to be in. I had the switch in the "emergency" position, which is used for jumping off the second battery when the main dies. Long story short, having the switch in this position didn't have the second battery isolated and allowed both to drain. I now know the proper positions for the switch so this shouldn't happen again. I guess better to learn that now rather than being in the middle of nowhere.
I am sure your alternator is probably fine but it just puts a big load on it and things can get hot with the constant stress. I have driven mine home with a dead battery after getting a jump but it goes on the charger when I get home. The new microprocessor controlled ones work well and are not much.
I would not sweat this. Your alternator can handle charging up your dead batteries. What is the running voltage at the battery terminals once charged? Assuming i's 14-14.5 volts, no battery charger is going to do better. You found a constant drain AND a flaw in your dual battery set up. You have fixed the problem. Time to drive on and be happy.
BTW- having a battery charger is extremely useful. Since they are cheap, you should buy one since you will need it for sure in the future.
