Alternator appears to be just about dead

[Live to Ski]

Beno: from a sociology point of view, I'm all ears to this conversation and your observations. A very interesting conversation and relevant since I'm a kinda-sorta long time mudder (well, since 2004 or so) who just jumped on the 100 camp.

Can you elaborate? If you want to take off-line to PM, I'm cool with that. Just really interesting....

 

[OGBeno]

Beno: from a sociology point of view, I'm all ears to this conversation and your observations. A very interesting conversation and relevant since I'm a kinda-sorta long time mudder (well, since 2004 or so) who just jumped on the 100 camp.

Can you elaborate? If you want to take off-line to PM, I'm cool with that. Just really interesting....

Email or give a call sometime.

 

[abuck99]

^Noted Beno - it's hard to convey context or tone in a post, but I guess it's just how the commentary landed (for me).

 

[Brian Waag]

Yeah, the implication is not a positive one. Times change, communities change, people change. Such is life.

I've not found a better (i.e., helpful, timely, lowest prices) source for toyota parts than Conicelli Toyota (www.partznet.com OR Conicelli | Genuine OEM Toyota Parts & Accessories | Conicelli Toyota a Partznet Co.)

They will sell you parts at unbeatable prices regardless of your demographics.

Thanks for the tip! Ok, well now back to my original post topic, as the thread took a kinda odd turn..... Anyhow, I ended up buying a new alternator at the local Toyota Dealership in Manhattan Beach, plead my case, and they give me a 15% discount, total with tax was $328.63 which includes $60 for a "core" charge (returning the old alternator). And yes, they are all re-manufactured. The dude said that he could most likely get me a brand new one, but at a much higher price and longer lead time, so "no thanks" and took the reman. Thought about doing the replacement myself, the 2 procedures I found on MUD were: 1) Go in from the front and remove the radiator (no thanks) or access from the front PS wheel well (uh.... maybe, but no time), so just dropped it off at my local mechanic. Didn't ask for a quote as the guy is reliable and always fair pricing.

Next up: Replace the POS Sears Diehard Platinum primary battery! (That's a whole 'nother issue that I posted about last year....)

 

[vman07]

Curious why you wouldn't buy the Denso reman. alternator on Amazon that several Mud members have reported using? (also linked in this thread) It's going for $190 versus the $328 you just paid...

 

[Spike555]

Any issues with the Denso?

Nope. Been in for over a year now. Denso is the OEM supplier. Direct fit. Works great. And I still have my old one which works.

 

[Spike555]

Curious why you wouldn't buy the Denso reman. alternator on Amazon that several Mud members have reported using? (also linked in this thread) It's going for $190 versus the $328 you just paid...

From the sounds of it it was a time issue. He has more money than time. And if that's what he has to do then thats what he has to do.

 

[Spike555]

Thanks for the tip! Ok, well now back to my original post topic, as the thread took a kinda odd turn..... Anyhow, I ended up buying a new alternator at the local Toyota Dealership in Manhattan Beach, plead my case, and they give me a 15% discount, total with tax was $328.63 which includes $60 for a "core" charge (returning the old alternator). And yes, they are all re-manufactured. The dude said that he could most likely get me a brand new one, but at a much higher price and longer lead time, so "no thanks" and took the reman. Thought about doing the replacement myself, the 2 procedures I found on MUD were: 1) Go in from the front and remove the radiator (no thanks) or access from the front PS wheel well (uh.... maybe, but no time), so just dropped it off at my local mechanic. Didn't ask for a quote as the guy is reliable and always fair pricing.

Next up: Replace the POS Sears Diehard Platinum primary battery! (That's a whole 'nother issue that I posted about last year....)

I did this job via moving the power steering pump, PIA job but worth saving the coin for me. Took me about an hour and a half doing it for the first time on this truck.

 

[dogdaysindurham]

What size is your DHP? Is it the 31M? If so I suspect that its not getting enough charge (current) from the alternator. When I was looking at the fsm, it seem to suggest that 30 amps was the max current that the alternator charging circuit could supply to the battery. But Odyssey recommends at least 45 to 50 amps. Also the present voltage on the oem regulator is a little low at 14.2, where the float charge for these AGM (absorbment glass mat) lead acid should get closer to 14.7. What ends up happening is the battery never gets fully charged to 100% and overtime loses its overall capacity.

I also think the alternators have a sense line and the ecu regulates the output a bit for economy purposes. From my understanding it will changes the field current going through the field coil and this modulates the alternator output.

I ended up getting a voltage booster diode that bumped my voltage closer to 14.5 that seemed to get me closer to 90%. A lot of folks in Oz do this for their dual battery set up. I also only have a group 65 dhp, so my max charge requirement is close to what the alternator can provide. I also hook it up to an odyssey agm battery charger to top it off about once a month. My dhp is going on 8 years now.

 

[vman07]

I ended up getting a voltage booster diode that bumped my voltage closer to 14.5 that seemed to get me closer to 90%. A lot of folks in Oz do this for their dual battery set up. I also only have a group 65 dhp, so my max charge requirement is close to what the alternator can provide. I also hook it up to an odyssey agm battery charger to top it off about once a month.

Can you provide any more info on the voltage booster you installed? The voltage on my LX rarely exceeds 14.0v....

 

[abuck99]

What size is your DHP? Is it the 31M? If so I suspect that its not getting enough charge (current) from the alternator. When I was looking at the fsm, it seem to suggest that 30 amps was the max current that the alternator charging circuit could supply to the battery. But Odyssey recommends at least 45 to 50 amps. Also the present voltage on the oem regulator is a little low at 14.2, where the float charge for these AGM (absorbment glass mat) lead acid should get closer to 14.7. What ends up happening is the battery never gets fully charged to 100% and overtime loses its overall capacity.

I also think the alternators have a sense line and the ecu regulates the output a bit for economy purposes. From my understanding it will changes the field current going through the field coil and this modulates the alternator output.

I ended up getting a voltage booster diode that bumped my voltage closer to 14.5 that seemed to get me closer to 90%. A lot of folks in Oz do this for their dual battery set up. I also only have a group 65 dhp, so my max charge requirement is close to what the alternator can provide. I also hook it up to an odyssey agm battery charger to top it off about once a month. My dhp is going on 8 years now.

Interesting data. I never see anything over 14.0v output on my Scanguage. Typical is 13.3-13.7 range. Voltage starts high (14.0) but eventually drops and hovers around 13.3-13.5, so your "sense line" theory may be plausible. Ive got a group 27 (Durlast Gold) non-agm and I put slow charger (3.48amps) on it 1x a month as well, and it takes hours of charging to recover, which tells me my charging system doesn't keep up on my short trips, or Ive got a current draw somewhere ( need to check that).

 

[2001LC]

Thanks for the tip! Ok, well now back to my original post topic, as the thread took a kinda odd turn..... Anyhow, I ended up buying a new alternator at the local Toyota Dealership in Manhattan Beach, plead my case, and they give me a 15% discount, total with tax was $328.63 which includes $60 for a "core" charge (returning the old alternator). And yes, they are all re-manufactured. The dude said that he could most likely get me a brand new one, but at a much higher price and longer lead time, so "no thanks" and took the reman. Thought about doing the replacement myself, the 2 procedures I found on MUD were: 1) Go in from the front and remove the radiator (no thanks) or access from the front PS wheel well (uh.... maybe, but no time), so just dropped it off at my local mechanic. Didn't ask for a quote as the guy is reliable and always fair pricing.

Next up: Replace the POS Sears Diehard Platinum primary battery! (That's a whole 'nother issue that I posted about last year....)

I've not actual done a alternator, but more than my share of T-belts. It should be a . Seem you could leave in the radiator. Try pulling air box, dr. belt then move power steering pump. Remember to cover radiator fins with cardboard to protect "IF" you pull fan/fan shroud to get out of your way for extra room. See T-belt job on Snowy in my signature.

VVVV
VVV
VV
V

 

[dogdaysindurham]

Can you provide any more info on the voltage booster you installed? The voltage on my LX rarely exceeds 14.0v....

Hey sorry, I've not had a chance to check this board much recently. I got mine through ebay from Oz. HKB Electronics, the MK3. Alternator Voltage Booster (MK3) for Prado/Hilux/Landcruiser | eBay It wasn't quite as expensive when I bought it a few years ago.

HKB Electronics - MK3 Mini blade 7.5A (Electronic fuse version)

I think a few folks have made their own. But it's been reliable for me and from what I have read from users in Oz.

 

[vman07]

Hey sorry, I've not had a chance to check this board much recently. I got mine through ebay from Oz. HKB Electronics, the MK3. Alternator Voltage Booster (MK3) for Prado/Hilux/Landcruiser | eBay It wasn't quite as expensive when I bought it a few years ago.

HKB Electronics - MK3 Mini blade 7.5A (Electronic fuse version)

I think a few folks have made their own. But it's been reliable for me and from what I have read from users in Oz.

thank you for the info!

 

[jerryb]

this goes into the 7.5 ALT-S slot? and gives a .5 boost? I'm thinking I'm getting old and not keeping up or something. I want one of these.

 

[rroverbkk]

Now I'm not sure if I'm cool or not cool here.