Alternator appears to be just about dead (1 Viewer)

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Brian Waag

Brian Waag

Joined
Jan 28, 2005
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Well - Came back from a great, albeit short, trip to the Eastern Sierra Nevada mountains this weekend, all went well, put 700+ miles on my 100 getting there and back. This morning, jumped in the Cruiser to head to work and the dreaded battery light came on the dash. I have dual batteries with a battery mgmt system, and appears that the alternator died. Battery voltage on the primary is 12.4v, secondary is 12.8v with engine off. Turned engine on, and battery voltage on primary dropped to 12.2v. Checked the + wire coming from the alternator that bolts onto the battery connection to confirm the voltage and never jumps up.

Anyhow, started the painful process of trying to order a new one. I know that CDan has retired, moved on, etc., so just tried to reach out to Beno, who I heard has now gone solo? I searched on the forum and saw posts by Beno but his signature says "Onur"? Assuming this is one and the same and was hoping that someone can confirm this is one and the same and he's still in the business. Also left a vmail and sent PM so just double-checking that he's still around?

If not, anyone have suggestions as to who provides MUD members any reasonable discounts? Really hoping to avoid paying full retail and also want to set up a parts purchasing relationship with someone trusted as I have quite a few other OEM parts I want to start replacing.

Thanks!!
 
Yes, Onur = @beno

His contact info should be in his sig line.

Just out of curiosity, did you have the alternator tested just to be sure?

Brian Waag said:
Well - Came back from a great, albeit short, trip to the Eastern Sierra Nevada mountains this weekend, all went well, put 700+ miles on my 100 getting there and back. This morning, jumped in the Cruiser to head to work and the dreaded battery light came on the dash. I have dual batteries with a battery mgmt system, and appears that the alternator died. Battery voltage on the primary is 12.4v, secondary is 12.8v with engine off. Turned engine on, and battery voltage on primary dropped to 12.2v. Checked the + wire coming from the alternator that bolts onto the battery connection to confirm the voltage and never jumps up.

Anyhow, started the painful process of trying to order a new one. I know that CDan has retired, moved on, etc., so just tried to reach out to Beno, who I heard has now gone solo? I searched on the forum and saw posts by Beno but his signature says "Onur"? Assuming this is one and the same and was hoping that someone can confirm this is one and the same and he's still in the business. Also left a vmail and sent PM so just double-checking that he's still around?

If not, anyone have suggestions as to who provides MUD members any reasonable discounts? Really hoping to avoid paying full retail and also want to set up a parts purchasing relationship with someone trusted as I have quite a few other OEM parts I want to start replacing.

Thanks!!
Click to expand...
 
Check the grounds to it, make sure no wires are corroded and you have a good contact with the battery. Now take a volt meter and put it on 20v, then put it on the battery with the engine running, if it reads 13.5-14.5 or something then the alternator is charging and regulating voltage. If it keeps dipping and eventually go below 12V then it's likely the alternator is shot.
 
FxFormat said:
Check the grounds to it, make sure no wires are corroded and you have a good contact with the battery. Now take a volt meter and put it on 20v, then put it on the battery with the engine running, if it reads 13.5-14.5 or something then the alternator is charging and regulating voltage. If it keeps dipping and eventually go below 12V then it's likely the alternator is shot.
Click to expand...
Yep - Did all the checks you mention with my trusty Fluke 83 multimeter. Voltage never jumps up when turning the engine on, even when stepping on the gas and bringing it up to 3k RPMs. Positive terminal of my meter was on the wire coming directly off of the alternator where it bolts onto the positive cable assembly that attaches to the battery. Good, clean, tight connections.
 
94SRUNNER said:
Yes, Onur = @beno

His contact info should be in his sig line.

Just out of curiosity, did you have the alternator tested just to be sure?
Click to expand...
I called him up and also sent a PM. Played phone tag and unfortunately he's not taking on any new MUD members (sigh....), but perhaps in the future.

No, as I'm a very impulsive individual, I didn't have it checked first due to the outcome of the troubleshooting I did on the electrical system (see replies below). Pretty darn confident that the alternator is the problem due to the readings I had on my meter.

I called the local Toyota dealer and pleaded my case, he gave me 15% of list price, but still a shot to the gut....
 
94SRUNNER said:
Yes, Onur = @beno

His contact info should be in his sig line.

Just out of curiosity, did you have the alternator tested just to be sure?
Click to expand...

Thanks for the referral Peter but I am currently NOT accepting any new clients from MUD. I don’t foresee this changing anytime soon considering the rapidly changing MUD demographics.
 
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I have had good luck ordering parts recently from @Kedwards Toyota of South Atlanta. Really simple checkout process and parts shipped quickly.

MUD discount 25% I believe.
 
beno said:
Thanks for the referral Peter but I am currently NOT accepting any new clients from MUD. I don’t foresee this changing anytime soon considering the rapidly changing MUD demographics.
Click to expand...
Onur - Sorry I missed your call yesterday, however thank you again for getting back to me. As mentioned on my vmail back to you, if at some point in the future you do take on more MUD clients, please let me know. Also, not sure the implication of your comment about "rapidly changing MUD demographics"?
 
Brian Waag said:
Onur - Sorry I missed your call yesterday, however thank you again for getting back to me. As mentioned on my vmail back to you, if at some point in the future you do take on more MUD clients, please let me know. Also, not sure the implication of your comment about "rapidly changing MUD demographics"?
Click to expand...


Yeah, the implication is not a positive one. Times change, communities change, people change. Such is life.
 
On a tangent, I've been really wanting to rebuild my alternator myself. It's something my dad used to do with me as a kid for our cars. But I ran into some trouble sourcing all the replacement parts.

From my research so far, the 05+ 130 amp alternator isn't fully rebuildable with OEM parts (if you try and do it on your own). A dedicate shop might be able to, but no of my local ones could promise me they were using a made in the USA/Japan voltage regulator or current rectifier. I'm trying to find out when Denso does their rebuilds where they are sourcing the voltage regulator / current rectifier. I tried contacting Denso to no avail.

From what I can tell, Toyota/Denso switched to a design where the voltage regulator, current rectifier, are soldered into the stator. Toyota at one time offered this all in one unit combined stator, voltage regulator, and current rectifier, but it costs almost 2x what a reman Denso costs. I believe one can replace the bearings and brush from the dealer.

Honda Denso guide that illustrates the issue, to replace the voltage regulator and current rectifier one has to use cut the stator connection and resolder it later.
Honda CSC29 Voltage Regulator Replacement
 
dogdaysindurham said:
For some folks it's hit and miss with the Denso rebuilds.

From my research so far, the 05+ 130 amp alternator isn't fully rebuildable with OEM parts (if you try and do it on your own). A dedicate shop might be able to, but no of my local ones could promise me they were using a made in the USA/Japan voltage regulator or current rectifier. I'm trying to find out when Denso does their rebuilds where they are sourcing the voltage regulator / current rectifier. I tried contacting Denso to no avail.

From what I can tell, Toyota/Denso switched to a design where the voltage regulator, current rectifier, are soldered into the stator. Toyota at one time offered this all in one unit combined stator, voltage regulator, and current rectifier, but it costs almost 2x what a reman Denso costs. I believe one can replace the bearings and brush from the dealer.

Honda Denso guide that illustrates the issue, to replace the voltage regulator and current rectifier one has to use cut the stator connection and resolder it later.
Honda CSC29 Voltage Regulator Replacement
Click to expand...

Solid and correct information.

Toyota-- like all massive global conglomerates-- is trying to cut down on as many part numbers as possible. A lot easier in totality replacing an alternator (2-3 bolts max and a belt) vs rebuilding one. Just does not make financial sense when considering economies of scale in massive part procurement schemes with hundreds and hundreds of suppliers like Toyota's keiretsu.
 
Toyota McGeorge is the cheapest around if you’re able to wait a few days. I took my core back to my local toyota and they gave me $30 back
 
beno said:
Thanks for the referral Peter but I am currently NOT accepting any new clients from MUD. I don’t foresee this changing anytime soon considering the rapidly changing MUD demographics.
Click to expand...

Wow-Nice post. This is the second jab I've noticed you've thrown towards Mud members in the 100 series forum in the past few weeks. Good to know you don't want or need any "new" business from Mud, but more so, what you think about the changing demographics here on Mud not suiting your business model; what ever that is. It's not that Mud members that have changed, it's the dealers that adapted their online business model which cut you out of reselling parts. Buy better or blame the dealer for getting more competitive, but blaming buyer behavior is pretty sad.

OP- you'll find competitive pricing (25-30%+ off list all day long) and excellent support from several competent online Toyota dealers that actually want and value your business. It doesn't take a consultant to look up the right part numbers, most all that information is available to you online or from your local Toyota parts dept.

It's my understanding (at least in North America) the currently available Toyota OEM alternators for our 2UZFE are all re-manned units (there are no "new" from Toyota in North America). It looks like you can still get a "new" unit shipped directly from Japan or UAE but the prices are out of sight ($1295 from Japan:eek:). The Denso units are also a remanned and available from several sources for far less than 1/2 Toyota OEM reman price as indicated above on the Amazon link.

Denso states that it sub's their rebuilding out to approved contract vendors: who? Good question. But it who ever the contractor, they have to meet Denso's requirements, which should be but may or may not be better than other aftermarket sources.

As far as rebuilding, most of the time it's the brushes that wear out not the regulator failing. Fading output indicates maybe your brushes are done. You can test for regulator. You could try and simply replace the brushes which will set you back $14. Pn# 27370-58460. If you want to replace the bearings as well 90068-10142(front) 90099-10140(rear). **These part numbers were for my 05 so check compatibility for your model year.

Good luck.

#a-mud-deplorable :grinpimp:
 
Rolocado said:
Toyota McGeorge is the cheapest around if you’re able to wait a few days. I took my core back to my local toyota and they gave me $30 back
Click to expand...
I never considered returning cores locally, thanks for the heads up!

Be nice if all members were as helpfully, respectfully and remember this is what mud is all about.
 
abuck99 said:
Wow-Nice post. This is the second jab I've noticed you've thrown towards Mud members in the 100 series forum in the past few weeks. Good to know you don't want or need any "new" business from Mud, but more so, what you think about the changing demographics here on Mud not suiting your business model; what ever that is. It's not that Mud members that have changed, it's the dealers that adapted their online business model which cut you out of reselling parts. Buy better or blame the dealer for getting more competitive, but blaming buyer behavior is pretty sad.
Click to expand...

Actually it's not about you or the 100 series section. You had nothing to do with this this--you just got here, relatively speaking. ;)

This isn't about cheap parts, reselling, etc. I was in the Toyota parts world and helped create the competitive environment here on MUD a decade ago.

My commentary is about the philosophical and sociological nature of owning a Land Cruiser.

It's not all about you. ;)
 
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