Years ago when I swaped in a 350, I was able to buy a tape like product at the hardware store which perminantly bonds to itself but is not sticky. 14 years later it still is in place. It is likely still availible. It was also thicker than electrical tape.
Great stuff. Sounds like you're referring to self bonding silicone tape. The roll I have has an interleaved liner that must come off before use. It activates by stretching the tape, then wrapping it to itself.
I use it where ever I want to seal a wrap of regular electrical tape. Or by itself for short runs. I'm pretty sure that I got it mailorder, can't remember where, but it's definitely still availible.
I have a sneaky suspicion that the fusible link wasn't actually there. My harness went up in smoke last summer from the fuse box all the way to the battery because I didn't have a fusible link. I had just finished rebuilding my 2F and wanted to drive the truck ASAP so I bought a good used harness. But if this was caused by a short the problem may still be there and without a fusible link you might be in the same boat before long.
Also, it looks like your stock ground strap (black w/yellow stripe) is going to the engine somewhere. It's hard to tell from the picture, as other ground leads may be going to the frame, but the stock ground strap goes to the frame, near the base of the right (p/s) shock.
Years ago when I swaped in a 350, I was able to buy a tape like product at the hardware store which perminantly bonds to itself but is not sticky. 14 years later it still is in place. It is likely still availible. It was also thicker than electrical tape.
It is likely made by 3M/Scotch .... 130*C tape... yellow & red box, self vulcanizing... I use it all the time for motor lead connections... up to 4160 Volts AC.... good stuff, but can be pricey... $18-$21 a roll... I love it.
Mark A - Yes, new fusible link going in today. Yes, one of the wires that melted was the white with blue stripe. The wires at the speedometer head that you mentioned.....are you talking about where the wires attach to the gauge cluster? I'll check that out....correct me if I'm looking in the wrong spot.
bikersmurf - "Magic Wrap".....got it! Thanks a bunch.....100 psi, huh? Good stuff
mickeymouse - Thanks for the offer on the connectors and wire bits......I'll let you know when I get to that point. I appreciate the help!
ken_79-fj40 - I'm certain there's not a fusible link, so it will go in today. Bummer about yours. How much did the new(er) harness run you?
Blue77FJ40 - the black with yellow strap goes to the bolt that mounts the engine hoist hook. The negative side battery cable runs to the frame location that I believe you're describing. Is that right?
I've never seen the stock ground cable go from the battery to the motor (engine hook). Doesn't mean that it's wrong, just that I've never saw that before. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong.
Yes, the stock ground cable termination point is where I mentioned previously.
Re Mark A. comment: yes, the blue/white wire that starts at the alternator and eventually goes through the firewall to the ammeter, see how that's doing. Hopefully, there's no signs of melting, etc. The ring of wiring that attaches to the back of the speedo cluster is what Mark is also referring to.
Don't forget to disconnect the battery when you pull out the gauge cluster to check wiring behind the speedo. Keep an eye on the ammeter connections, I've have mine come loose and cause problems. Good luck, and nice temp wiring job.
It was hearing stories like this that finally motivated me to install a couple of fire extringuishers in my cruiser. Vibration can do some real damage. Last weekend I was out in Joshua Tree and the washboard roads were so bad they loosened bolts that I probably would've broken trying to remove. Even ones with lockwashers weren't effective, all 4 nuts on one of my steering studs worked loose, so now everything gets locktited. The most random one was the two tiny little screws holding the speedometer face on, I only noticed it when the speedo was acting weird because the needle was rubbing.
It is likely made by 3M/Scotch .... 130*C tape... yellow & red box, self vulcanizing... I use it all the time for motor lead connections... up to 4160 Volts AC.... good stuff, but can be pricey... $18-$21 a roll... I love it.
You can find the same stuff at Walmart in the plumbing section for about $6/10ft, and in different colors. After about a day that stuff fuses together and becomes a solid rubber coating. I just wrapped the ammeter connections in back of the gauge cluster last week with this stuff.
Not only does it work great for eletrical items, but also a expedient field repair of heater and radiator hoses. The only downside, well, two actually. It's not oil/gas resistant, at least not for long. And sometimes it works so well that you get lazy and tend to leave it on longer than intended.
The ground from the battery goes straight down to a threaded hole on the frame. There is another ground cable that also attaches to the frame across from the starter that attaches to the starter mounting bolt closest to the frame.
The ground from the battery goes straight down to a threaded hole on the frame. There is another ground cable that also attaches to the frame across from the starter that attaches to the starter mounting bolt closest to the frame.
Thanks for this bsevans....that's exactly what I have. Additionally, though, I have the grounding strap (black with yellow stripe) as mentioned above (going from the negative battery terminal to the engine hoise hook mount). I think it showed up there when I had the engine swapped last year. Don't know if it does any good, but it certainly can't do any harm, right?!
ducktapeguy - Yes, with all the plowing I do (running with the tires chained up, bad roads, bumping into snow berms, etc) causes tons of vibration and I'm constantly tightening bolts and nuts that I find loose. I've even lost bolts out of the hood hinges.....crazy.
I picked up a fusible link at the auto parts store today....blade type with a 30 amp fuse. Is that enough though? Would 40 amps or greater be better? A little help, please......
I can say from running my 73 with the 35-40 amp stock alternator, that the electric motor on the western plow we had pulled alot of juice. It sat alot back then before we restored it back to a daily driver, so it was not in top shape. But the battery was constantly discharged, plowing at night the heaters and lights would nearly dim out when lifting the blade. Ammeter ran on the charge side all the time.
I'm wondering if you were pulling too much juice. A bad ground or something from the plow motor could cause a lot of resistance, as could a bad VR, etc... I would double check all major grounds, even if they look good, and perhaps the condition of the battery. As other mentioned, all the amps from the alternator pass through the ammeter in the dash. If you were pulling lots of power, it could be melted there.
Personally if I ever sat up a plow on a 40 again, I would run dual batteries and a second alternator of higher output just for the plow, or run a hydrualic pump off the engine, and scrap the whole electric settup. They just have trouble keeping up with that much power demand in my opinion.
I know at least the 78 and 79 fusible links are discontinued by Toyota. My plugs for the stock one on the used harness I bought were good so I bought some GM fusible link wire from Napa and made my own. I think I paid $250 for the harness but it was from cruiserparts who do occasionally seem to be pretty proud of their stuff. But they are 2 hours from me and I had it the same day I found out they had one. The harness is mint, and I had the truck running in an afternoon.
MoCoNative - You're right, running the plow (for sometimes 20+ hours at a stretch) with lights, heater fan, and wipers pulls a lot of juice. I will double check all the grounds.....good call. Battery is a good, newer Exide, so I don't think that's the problem. The ammeter does spend a lot of time in the + side, though.
I'm toying with the idea of a second high output alternator to run a stick welder off of.....perhaps it could double duty for the plow....hmmmm.....thanks for the idea.
I think I'll just crimp up a section of 14 gauge fusible link and stick the rest of the roll in my trail spares box with some butt splices for back ups.....
Cruiserstuff: Bsevens said it better re stock ground clamp mount. I meant to say on the p/s frame rail, under the base of the shock mount *tower*. As mentioned, its a captive 8 x 1.25mm nut in the frame. Good luck with your fusible link install.
Good news....pulled the gauge cluster and found no discoloration on any of the wires or connectors. Whew!! Of course, I broke the speedo cable, but it needed to be replaced anyway. On my way to get the fusible link right now.....
Bsevens: I see no problem grounding the battery negative to the engine block. The starter is therefore grounded to the block. The second ground you mention from the frame to the starter bolt grounds the frame. Maybe I am confused??
"The eagle has landed".......I mean, "The link has been added."
I crimped up a few extras for the trail spares box.....
.....and dropped one in this morning. Now I'll sleep better knowing this is in place. Since I have quite a bit left over (and in the interest of safer land cruisers everywhere) I'll ship a 6" section to anyone who wants one until the rest of the roll is gone. Just PM me your mailing address and I'll send it off to you.....
I have enough for maybe 6-10 more 6" sections of 14 gauge of fusible link if anyone else is interested. PM me your name and address and I'll throw it in the mail for ya. FREE protection for your cruiser.....like grant5127 said, "An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure........"
