All rubber fuel lines on Aisin Carb?

[mikeob1]

I am thinking about putting barbed connectors on my Aisin carb for the In and Out fuel lines and just running rubber 5/16" line from Checker. This is on 74 Fj-40.

Anybody think this is a horrible idea?

I guess I could replace the metal lines and the rubber lines, but seems like would be fewer parts to just do rubber.

I'm going up to Hardware store to see if I can find a barbed connector that would fit in my carb.

 

[FJ40Jim]

I am thinking about putting barbed connectors on my Aisin carb for the In and Out fuel lines and just running rubber 5/16" line from Checker. This is on 74 Fj-40.

Anybody think this is a horrible idea?

Yes, running 6 feet of rubber fuel hose around on a hot engine qualifies as a horrible idea.

The formed steel fuel feed line is still available new from Toyota for ~$40.

The return line is NLA, AFAIK. But it is relatively easy to hand bend, and less likely to leak, since it just drains back to the tank.

 

[caz]

I bent up my own using hydraulic lines. The compression fittings for the ends are available from Mcmaster or even the hardware store. Mine originally had partial rubber lines on it from the PO.

 

[mikeob1]

Yes, running 6 feet of rubber fuel hose around on a hot engine qualifies as a horrible idea.

The formed steel fuel feed line is still available new from Toyota for ~$40.

The return line is NLA, AFAIK. But it is relatively easy to hand bend, and less likely to leak, since it just drains back to the tank.

Good point, Jim. I guess even though the rubber is rated to 275 degrees, it could be hazardous. I think I'm going to go the metal route for fuel inlet from pump to carb and keep the metal return line. Do you know if the compression fittings are NPT or are they some metric variety?

I bent up my own using hydraulic lines. The compression fittings for the ends are available from Mcmaster or even the hardware store. Mine originally had partial rubber lines on it from the PO.

Nice looking engine, CAZ! Did you end up using 5/16" or 3/8" line, and do you single flare or double flare?

I notice Jegs has aluminum line. Is there any opinion on steel or aluminum?

 

[caz]

Nice looking engine, CAZ! Did you end up using 5/16" or 3/8" line, and do you single flare or double flare?

Sorry, should have looked this up the first time! I was being Lazy

Tubing - McMaster-Carr
Fittings - McMaster-Carr

There is no flare necessary.

CAZ

 

[Coolerman]

The compression fittings for the ends are available from McMaster Carr or even the hardware store.

Great looking engine bay!

As far as anyone has been able to determine, the OEM compression fittings are NLA from any source. At least not on the early FJ40's. The fitting is believed to be a 13mm x 1.5 size for 8mm line. You can make your own from 5/16 line and a 5/16 ferrule but you must use your old compression nuts. That's what I did though the line is still available from Toyota.

That said, do the later models use different fittings? If not how did you adapt your carb to handle standard fittings?

 

[MoCoNative]

I made up a new hard line and got the just the nuts from SOR, a couple years ago now. Used 5/16 fuel line from NAPA and some of the ferrules at ACE hardware, good cheap source for them.

When I ran a Holley, I had nothing but trouble from the rubber line we spliced into the factory line over to the carb. It only ran about 12 inches along the valve cover and in, but it required replacement about once a year.

I still get vapor lock, even with metal lines, going to work on a little heat shielding this summer near the carb.

 

[malcb]

I bent up my own using hydraulic lines. The compression fittings for the ends are available from Mcmaster or even the hardware store. Mine originally had partial rubber lines on it from the PO.

X2 on the nice engine bay, wish mine looked like that.

Did you plate or paint the metal finish parts?

(And whats the red wire fromthe battery to the carb?)

 

[FJ40Jim]

This tubing can also be used for engine and chassis fuel lines:
Mcmaster bundy tube
Type: Roll-Formed Carbon Steel Coiled Tubing
Material: Zinc-Plated Carbon Steel
Outside Dia.: 5/16" (.3125")
Outside Dia. Tolerance: ±.003"
Inside Dia.: .257"
Wall Thickness: .028"
Length: 21' 8"
Metal Finish: Coating is silver-colored
Maximum Pressure: 2,100 psi @ 72º F
Operating Temperature Range: -40º to +250º F
Metal Bendability: Bendable With Bending Tool
Temper: Soft (Annealed)
Tensile Strength: Low
Metal Construction: Roll-Formed (Bundyweld)
Metal Flareability: Flareable
For Use With: Fuel, Hydraulic Fluid
Shipped As: Coil
Specifications Met: SAE J527
Compatible Fittings: Compression, Flared

 

[caz]

X2 on the nice engine bay, wish mine looked like that.

Did you plate or paint the metal finish parts?

(And whats the red wire fromthe battery to the carb?)

Thanks!

All bolts/brackets/etc... are yellow cad plated.

The red wire is from the solenoid on the carb. I was having trouble getting it to run right and put it directly to the battery to eliminate any question of bad ground.

 

[FJ40Jim]

Caz, is the yellow cad done at home w/ a kit, or did it all go to a professional plating shop?

 

[caz]

It is a plating shop that we use here at work. I think it was a $100 lot charge for pretty much all of the bolts/brackets/hoses from my entire truck. I usually save up Toyota bolts and take 5 gallon buckets at a time.

I spent a lot of time in front of the wire wheel getting paint and thick grease off. Otherwise, he cleans the stuff very well first, cad plates it, then does the yellow.


I like cad a lot more than zinc. It is much less "brittle" and does not flake off. The down side is that it does not shine quite as nicely as zinc, but it does last longer.

CAZ