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James C

James C

Joined
Dec 4, 2017
Threads
13
Messages
362
Location
Livermore, CA
Better late than never

2000894


Purchased in December 2017: 2004, 121k miles. We were looking all over the state and found one sitting on the side of the road a quarter mile from our house with a for-sale sign. 100% mom truck.

Upgrades
OME front suspension, 886 front w/9000 struts
Dobinsons C59 701V rear springs
JBA high caster UCAs
Resonator chop / re-route out the side
Body mount chop
Level 8 Strike 6 wheels (17x9, -12mm offset)
285/70-17 BFG KO2s
Rear diff breather extended to gas cap door
Metal Tech rear brake lines
DIY extended rear sway bar end links
Grom TOYLU3 with usb port
Viair 400P compressor hard mounted on rear right 3rd row seat bracket
Backup camera relocated to inside upper rear window
FT-2980R ham radio in center console, SBB1 antenna on PS fender
Scangauge II
Metal wire grid attic rack
Plasti-dipped grill and emblems
OPOR sliders
Converted sunroof to skylight (it rattled)
DIY 80/20 roof rack with Gamiviti towers
Odyssey 34R PC1500T battery with Ruff Stuff tray
Blue Sea 12-slot fuse block
150A circuit breaker and Blue Sea Maxi fuse block
Sherpa Offroad rear tube bumper (welded by Lil B's while Austin fixed his wrist)
ARB 2000mm awning with room
Rocksteady aluminum skid plates (3 piece + LCAs)
Dissent Offroad front bumper
HF Badlands 12k winch
Wotefusi (Amazon) snorkel

Maintenance
Mobil1 synthetic oil every 8k
Tires rotated every 3k
U-joints and slip yokes greased every 5k or after wetness
Aisin timing belt / water pump kit
Mobil1 75W-90 gear oil in diffs (rear every 10k, center & front every 15k)
New front and rear sway bar bushings
New OEM LCAs
New OEM tie rod ends
New OEM front sway bar end links
OEM brake pads
1x transmission drain / refill @ 141k
Front wheel bearing assemblies from Blue Pit

I'll try and post some specifics with pictures of some of the wrenching and adventures.
 
Last edited:
Looks good. Just out of curiosity, why did you change from OEM upper control arms?
 
Thanks! Changed them with the lift because a) the originals were worn out and b) the OEM UCA geometry isn't ideal for 2"+ lifts. There is the possibility of OEM UCAs hitting the coils as the suspension is unloaded if you have a lift. That and the ball joint angle.
 
New suspension
suspension upgrade

suspension upgrade

OME and JBA

Resonator delete
Resonator delete

Resonator delete


Replaced OEM hitch with Metal Tech hitch to gain a few inches of clearance
hitch before and after

hitch before and after


Compressor mount
brackets

brackets

compressor mounted

compressor mounted


DIY rear end links
End link

End link


Bumper trim
Bumper trim

Bumper trim


Audio USB port in cig lighter
USB audio

USB audio


Super ghetto rear camera relocation
Camera relocate

Camera relocate

 
Okay. I’m still learning. I was under the impression that if you stayed 2” or under then the stock ones were okay.
 
Cooperd0g said:
Okay. I’m still learning. I was under the impression that if you stayed 2” or under then the stock ones were okay.
Click to expand...

They'll definitely work, but the geometry will be out of sync. You could get away with it but it's not ideal - if you lift your truck I would look at aftermarket UCAs when your stock ones wear out. The JBA ones aren't prohibitively expensive and they allow you to easily replace the ball joint when it wears out.
 
Way ahead of me! Nice build... I can't decide on that Dissent bumper vs a full bumper.
 
It doesn't have the approach angle of some other offerings but the craftsmanship is incredible.
 
I get a little nuts about rattles and strange sounds, and usually won't rest until they've been fixed. Recently had rattle start in the front DS, sounding like it was coming from the wheel well. I checked and re-checked the suspension and couldn't find anything. I was giving up when I remembered that my battery tray is bolted to the wheel well. Sure enough, the bolts holding it in were just loose enough to let it rattle against the wheel well, which I could feel in my feet.

I put a 1/8" sheet of high-temp silicone in between the tray and wheel well and added some loctite to the bolts. The truck is quiet again, at least for now!
 
This is looking perfect. What is the rear bumper? Did you paint the black underneath it?
 
Looking very nice and you are super anal about maintenance and repairs. You have done a lot good things suspension wise. LOL

Could you post pictures of the passenger side where the opor rock slider middle leg attaches to the frame and overlaps the rock steady transfer case skid plate bracket?

I’m having trouble mounting the rock steady transfer case bracket because the slider leg is already using that same hole on the frame.

I might have asked for pictures before but can’t remember.
 
Nice work. I'd love info on your DIY rear sway links. Parts list? Thanks.
 
HomersCanyonero said:
Could you post pictures of the passenger side where the opor rock slider middle leg attaches to the frame and overlaps the rock steady transfer case skid plate bracket?
Click to expand...
No problem, here ya go:
1969048


I cut the OPOR slider arm, as I wasn't using that hole anyway. Still need to bold the bottom - I just need to get a nut welded to a plate that I can drop down in the frame. Not a big fan of nutcerts.

estoddart said:
Nice work. I'd love info on your DIY rear sway links. Parts list? Thanks.
Click to expand...

McMaster-Carr
1x Steel Threaded Rod, 3/8"-24 Thread, 2' Length; Part number 98957A805
2x Steel Ball Joint Rod End, 3/8"-24 Right-Hand Female Shank, 3/8" Ball ID, 13/16" L Thread; Part number 60645K341
2x Zinc-Plated Steel Washer for Ball Joint Rod End, Fits 3/8" Shank Size; Part number 95034A300

Other (probably find at Lowes or HD)
2x Grade 8 3/8" 2" length bolts
2x Grade 8 3/8"-24 Thread nylock nuts
2x Grade 8 3/8"-16 Thread nylock nuts
2x Packs of 3/8" grade 8 washers
2x 3/8x1/2x1-1/2" Steel Spacer
 
Got it on the overlap of the slider middle leg and the transfer case bracket. Im currently using both bolts to hold the slider. But maybe I can cut the lip on the RockSteady bracket


755781B3-FFF4-4A34-82D9-CACF36068ED5.jpeg
 
Made a little mod to my Sherpa rear bumper. The original design has all the weight of the swingout arm on the latch bracket, so I had a little shelf welded on (not by me unfortunately) to carry the load. Didn't get a pic before painting but this is the final product:

1975805
 
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