- Thread starter
- #281
Thanks for the glow input. Unfortunately the 12v ones I can't glow much longer than 8 seconds before they blow up. 24v might be different.
Builds AK HJ-75 (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter coldtaco
- Start date
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AussieHJCruza
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Do you know what voltage glow plugs it has in it? Super glow trucks originally had 6 volt glow plugs, depending on the coolant temperature, the controller would hit them with 12 volts for about 3 seconds, at which point the glow light went off, you started the engine, and then the controller would give them 6 volts for 20 seconds or so after the engine was running to smooth out the idle.
The non-superglow trucks had 10.5v or 12v plugs depending on what setup they ran, and would need about 20 seconds to get them nice and hot. Is it possible that maybe your truck still has 6 volt plugs in it which could explain why they're failing?
The non-superglow trucks had 10.5v or 12v plugs depending on what setup they ran, and would need about 20 seconds to get them nice and hot. Is it possible that maybe your truck still has 6 volt plugs in it which could explain why they're failing?
- Thread starter
- #283
I replaced the 6V with 11V and disconnected part of the slow glow system and just doing manual glow.
Hello Coldtaco,
Would you mind mentioning the advantages of an aluminium rad please?
Would you mind mentioning the advantages of an aluminium rad please?
- Thread starter
- #285
I can get a new rad
cheaper to ship from down under the truck is my daily driver and not for off-road, much. And was able to customize it some. Just from observing on here and other places it seemed like a stock rad for my 2h was not available or very hard to find, which seems hard to believe given the amount of these trucks still on the road.Best reason is it's shiny
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You could certainly be right about the 24v truck. The 12v trucks engine was new and needed nothing and started easily. The 24v truck was another story and was mostly what I was talking about. I have no doubt you know this truck like the back of your hand.
Great read by the way, took me about a week to get through the whole thread. Your drive home, it reminds me of drives home from Panama. It was-is exactly 4450 miles from where I lived in Panama to where I lived in Wyoming if I took the most direct route.
Cheers
I can get a new rad
Best reason is it's shiny
Well! Coldtaco, i asked, and i received. Right to the point! Thank you sir.
I do wish to say, i was hoping for some info on the performamce of alu rads compared to the regular ones. Not complaining, just hunting. Cheers big ears! You're slowly turning your pick-up into an automotive ideal.
- Thread starter
- #288
From all my readings supposedly copper/brass perform better and are more robust.
My experience: OEM vs Aluminum
If you push your Cruiser hard (high EGT's) the end result will be an elevated water temp. regardless of type of radiator.
The difference: (again based on my experience) Once you back out of the throttle resulting in lower EGT's, the aluminum radiator will cool at a quicker rate that the OEM.
It's difficult for me to gauge the difference in structural integrity. If you stick a limb through the grill, they are both toast.
If you push your Cruiser hard (high EGT's) the end result will be an elevated water temp. regardless of type of radiator.
The difference: (again based on my experience) Once you back out of the throttle resulting in lower EGT's, the aluminum radiator will cool at a quicker rate that the OEM.
It's difficult for me to gauge the difference in structural integrity. If you stick a limb through the grill, they are both toast.
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- Thread starter
- #290
New rad installed. Haven't been able to run it on my test road yet to see how it does.
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From my experience you can keep EGTs low using a good quality intercooler. I have had one custom made by PWR who made coldtaco's radiator. Also lots of ceramic coatings help. The correct exhaust size. A properly tuned IP. Cooling the turbo with oil and water and the oil system on the truck having a nice big fat cooler. And obviously a good working cooling system. I have had a diesel built that was the only one like it I have ever seen in a Japanese truck so I learned a lot about all this during that process.
Cheers
New aluminum radiator from Odd Iron Off Road ............. check
Custom made air / water Intercooler ............................ check
Garrett turbo (Odd Iron) ............................................. check
3" exhaust ................................................................ check
Rebuilt IP / diamond cut injectors ................................ check
From my experience, consistent EGT's as low as 750-800 degrees will effect water temps.
Sorry for the highjack....
Custom made air / water Intercooler ............................ check
Garrett turbo (Odd Iron) ............................................. check
3" exhaust ................................................................ check
Rebuilt IP / diamond cut injectors ................................ check
From my experience, consistent EGT's as low as 750-800 degrees will effect water temps.
Sorry for the highjack....
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- Thread starter
- #293
I've been thinking about the water overheating thing all year. Maybe you can run this thought across with Rob. How about if one would be able to install some kind of radiator inbetween the turbo water out and where this hose goes into the block?
- Thread starter
- #294
So, just got back from my "test" track. About 30mi. one way. Ambient temp 65F. HWY that is not flat all the way, at least half if not a little bit more has slight up and down. Coming back to town has most of the ups. 65mph. If I remember correctly I think I was getting about 205-210F with one 215F. Now It stayed at 180F for about 90% of the time with 185 for the other 10% of the time. I did also slightly retard the fuel timing. So average 180F water, egt 625F, and boost about 8psi. After getting back in the garage, the top of the radiator is just about too hot to touch, but the bottom is luke warm to warm. So, maybe I have finally beat the heat dragon.
Coldtaco, Did you totally remove your "super-glow" system or just by-pass it with a Wilson Switch?
Mine is bypassed with a Wilson switch, and I don't even use it until it goes below 40 Fahrenheit.
I usually just manually heat for about 3-4 seconds. Are you going longer than that with 11 volt plugs?
Mine is bypassed with a Wilson switch, and I don't even use it until it goes below 40 Fahrenheit.
I usually just manually heat for about 3-4 seconds. Are you going longer than that with 11 volt plugs?
- Thread starter
- #296
the PO had a wilson switch installed and kept the original in tact. When I was testing the parts I found the one box above the glove box to have failed it's test so I left in unplugged and just use the wilson switch.
- Thread starter
- #297
the mighty 2H, hear her roar
- Thread starter
- #298
Finally got out for one night camping for the year.
- Thread starter
- #299
back from my longer test drive.
Basics; ambient temps while driving 50F-60F, fuel pump timing just slightly retarded. 188mi round trip. 65mph rpm is 2500rpm. Basic road traveled description is leaving town for about 50mi or so at sea level, about half 55mph and the second half 65mph speed limit. After the sea level flat road started into the "hills" with about a 5mi two part climb, with the second part fairly steep. Then kind of levelish with two more pretty good climbs. The reverse started sort of level, then one climb, not as extreme as the first outbound, then mostly long slight uphills until reaching the top of the first big climb from outbound. Outbound in the flats it was with headwinds, and heading back in the mountains a lot of head wind, then at sea level a light tail wind.
So, heading out, at 55mph; egt 550-600F, 180F water, 6psi boost. At 65mph egt about 650F, 180F water, 8psi boost. The first part of the first climb maintained 65mph, egt 700-800F, 180-185F water, 12psi boost. No smoke. The hardest climb started at about 68mph and crested at about 62mph, egt max of 1000F, 190F water, 14psi boost. No smoke. The other two climbs at 65mph egt about 900F, 185F water and 12-14boost. Otherwise speed at 65mph, egt 650-700, 180F water, 8psi boost on average.
Return trip doing 65mph through all the long gradual climbs with head wind, egt around 650-700F, 180F water, 8psi boost. Then the last section of sea level in the 65mph egt about 600-650F, 180F water, 7-8psi boost with tail wind. In the 55mph section with slight tailwind egt 550F, water 175F, boost 6psi. I also have a AFR meter installed. During cruise at 65mph it will be from 55's-65's depending on head wind. During hard climbs it would be around 35. Initial loads while accelerating it would dip into the 18's to 21.
17.6mpg for the whole trip.
Looks like the water temps are under control, even with longer higher egts.
Basics; ambient temps while driving 50F-60F, fuel pump timing just slightly retarded. 188mi round trip. 65mph rpm is 2500rpm. Basic road traveled description is leaving town for about 50mi or so at sea level, about half 55mph and the second half 65mph speed limit. After the sea level flat road started into the "hills" with about a 5mi two part climb, with the second part fairly steep. Then kind of levelish with two more pretty good climbs. The reverse started sort of level, then one climb, not as extreme as the first outbound, then mostly long slight uphills until reaching the top of the first big climb from outbound. Outbound in the flats it was with headwinds, and heading back in the mountains a lot of head wind, then at sea level a light tail wind.
So, heading out, at 55mph; egt 550-600F, 180F water, 6psi boost. At 65mph egt about 650F, 180F water, 8psi boost. The first part of the first climb maintained 65mph, egt 700-800F, 180-185F water, 12psi boost. No smoke. The hardest climb started at about 68mph and crested at about 62mph, egt max of 1000F, 190F water, 14psi boost. No smoke. The other two climbs at 65mph egt about 900F, 185F water and 12-14boost. Otherwise speed at 65mph, egt 650-700, 180F water, 8psi boost on average.
Return trip doing 65mph through all the long gradual climbs with head wind, egt around 650-700F, 180F water, 8psi boost. Then the last section of sea level in the 65mph egt about 600-650F, 180F water, 7-8psi boost with tail wind. In the 55mph section with slight tailwind egt 550F, water 175F, boost 6psi. I also have a AFR meter installed. During cruise at 65mph it will be from 55's-65's depending on head wind. During hard climbs it would be around 35. Initial loads while accelerating it would dip into the 18's to 21.
17.6mpg for the whole trip.
Looks like the water temps are under control, even with longer higher egts.
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