Aisin carb rebuild questions (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Feb 20, 2003
Threads
40
Messages
1,557
Location
If ya don't know, I ain't tellin'
Finally starting on rebuilding the Aisin carb on my 87 FJ60 with 2F. I've got the factory manual, a rebuild kit from Jim C. I've disassembled the carb, placing the parts in three boxes to keep track of them (air horn, fuel body, and flange). BUT, I've got three questions.

1. I don't have the SSTs, so I managed to muck up the needle valve seat right where the SST fits in it to remove it. :mad: My screwdriver was a pretty good fit, but some of the brass just popped off. :doh: The thing is really IN THERE. I tried a little PB Blaster, I tried heating it, still didn't move, and a little more of the brass broke off. I don't think it's ever coming out, so I plan on just dipping carb with the needle valve seat still in place--any problem with that? :confused:

2. The gaskets between the small venturi and the fuel body are like they are glued in place. I don't want to gouge the fuel body trying to scrape these off--will they come off in the dip? :confused:

3. I haven't drilled out the metal plug for the idle mixture screw--I assume I should do that and remove the screw before dipping the carb? :confused:

I'm thinking of dipping the parts in two batches (flange/body parts and then air horn parts) so that I don't get too confused with all the little pieces, and so I can reassemble the body/flange while the airhorn sits in the dip. I assume ALL metal parts can be dipped.

Anyway, this is my "after hours" project and will take a few days, so I'll probably be posting a few other questions. :popcorn:

Thanks in advance. And yes, I am searching and reading--I just hadn't found anything about the needle valve seat, so I posted.
 
Last edited:
My needle valve seat had a filter attached to the bottom of it that was plastic (nylon?) and metal screen. I would think the dip might hose this filter up.

Does your rebuild kit have this part in it? Does the replacement have a filter?
 
Yeah, okay, that's what I was afraid of. I haven't check my rebuild kit to see if I have one (didn't think of that!).

But, if I can't get the seat out, I've got a real problem then--if the dip melts the nylon washer and gums ups the filter or it falls out, I can't put a new one in without removing the seat.

Most of the other brass parts came out pretty easily (although some of them need a little persuading to break free at first)--this one is just not moving. I'll take a picture tonight and post the damage to see if anyone has any ideas on my next step.
 
Also, WHAT NOT TO DIP?

Do you dip the slow-cut valve, the choke breaker, the idle up, etc.--all those sealed pieces, do they have any rubber or plastic parts inside, or are they metal/springs?
 
When I dipped my old one, I dipped the body only, and what wouldn't come out of the body, and all the little metal pieces that did come out. I wouldn't dip any of that other stuff. Better safe than sorry.

That dip is nasty stuff (Berryman's). You can open the can in your driveway with 30 mph winds and you're still tainted with that nasty smell for days. Don't do that in your basement, J. Wear good rubber gloves when you mess with it, too.
 
sounds like you should have just sent it to JimC and let him rebuild it for you.......... :flipoff2:
 
Jman said:
I'll just assume that's your sig line in action, you :princess: :flipoff2:

absolutely is....hats off to you for trying to rebuild it. i don't think i would even attempt it as i am such a :princess: and all.....
 
Okay, got the needle valve seat out--seems it just needed some time to think about things. :rolleyes: Of course, as it turns out, the strainer at the end is cracked, and my rebuild kit doesn't have a replacement in it. Ahhh, CDan? :confused:

Also drilled out the plug for the idle mixture adjusting screw. Oh, that was fun. :rolleyes:

By the way, what is this item below, with the red arrow? :confused: I've seen it pictured in the manual, but no instructions to take it out for rebuild and not even a name for it.
carb.JPG
 
Jman said:
2. The gaskets between the small venturi and the fuel body are like they are glued in place. I don't want to gouge the fuel body trying to scrape these off--will they come off in the dip? :confused:


yes, if you leave them in there long enough -- that stuff will dissolve just about anything. does a number on painted surfaces too so be careful with the where & how...

-db-
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom