Aisan Carburetor 1969 (8/68) FJ40 "Pin" - Why the internal Threads?

[Relot76]

My accelerator cable recently broke on my OEM Aisan carburetor 1969 (mfg 8/68) FJ40 with smog pump. In researching for the correct new cable to order, I learned that Toyota seemed to be making several minor changes to the accelerator cable assembly beginning in 1968 with notable changes in 03/1969 and 10/1969. Tracing from the end of the cable at the carburetor back to the accelerator cable, my assembly parts consist of an "End" (or later called "Stopper") with a set screw to hold the cable at desired length; a "Pin" (a small machined block with internal coarse threads) that the exposed cable wire passes through; and then the accelerator cable housing that fits into the bracket attached to the Aisan carburetor. See attached diagram and photo.

QUESTION: Why does the "Pin" have threads in the center where the exposed cable wire passes through? As far as I can find, there is no part that screws into the "Pin" yet the "Pin" is internally threaded. I have determined that the threads in the "Pin" abraded the exposed cable wires over the years and caused the cable to finally break.

Any explanations from Aisan carb experts would be appreciated as well as photos from anyone with similar year FJ40 on how your accelerator cable assembly connects to your Aisan OEM carburetor.

 

[charliemeyer007]

Maybe at one time the outer cable housing had a section that screwed into that piece. Fill hole with epoxy, let it cure, drill for wire clearance and install your new cable.

 

[Living in the Past]

Probably because up to 9/67 carburetor had solid linkage. You should be glad the end of the cable broke off at home. At least thirty years ago mine broke in Flagstaff as I was about to get on the I-17 heading home to Phoenix. Luckily I had a lug from an HVAC contactor. Was able to use that to get home. Accelerator pedal was higher and more uncomfortable than normal but I got home.

 

[Relot76]

Maybe at one time the outer cable housing had a section that screwed into that piece. Fill hole with epoxy, let it cure, drill for wire clearance and install your new cable.

That is a really good idea! Others may want to do that as a preventative maintenance measure. I got lucky. The cable broke when starting the FJ in my garage. The "End" or "Stopper" is not available any longer.

 

[Living in the Past]

On second maybe not since it had been floating because of the hand throttle.

 

[Relot76]

Probably because up to 9/67 carburetor had solid linkage. You should be glad the end of the cable broke off at home. At least thirty years ago mine broke in Flagstaff as I was about to get on the I-17 heading home to Phoenix. Luckily I had a lug from an HVAC contactor. Was able to use that to get home. Accelerator pedal was higher and more uncomfortable than normal but I got home.

Solid linkage -- makes sense! Yes, I was lucky it broke in my garage. The accelerator pedal is uncomfortable enough for my long legs. That must have been a really uncomfortable 150 miles!

 

[charliemeyer007]

Use that drill to put a cross hole in a small bolt by the head. Stick wire threw the hole and then tighten up the nylock nut.

 

[charliemeyer007]

Google Search

 

[65swb45]

The same pin was used on the earlier F135 linkage, and a rod threaded through it to adjust the length of the linkage.

It was handy for taking up slop in the rod linkage more or less on the fly until the P.O. or their mechanic got around to repairing/replacing the sloppy parts. As a 30 year veteran of the F135 on my blue 45, I have utilized this feature a few times in between the two overhauls of the linkage I have had to do.

 

[Relot76]

Google Search

Great search link for anyone who needs a new "End" or "Stopper" for their accelerator cable at the carburetor. Thanks!