Air pump - More air out and need more air in

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Now that the DT headers are extracting more air out of the engine, we need to find a way to get more air in at WOT. The attached link from Tundrasolutions is very interesting.

Stock Air Flow Numbers and Mod - Toyota Tundra Forums : Tundra Solutions Forum

This adds another air inlet into the airbox. Similiar to the deckplate mod.

Ideas and thoughts? Has anyone used the extra inlet mod vs the deckplate mod on a 100 series?

This will also require running an airhog or K&N type high flow air filter.
 
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This will also require running an airhog or K&N type high flow air filter.

Why not a second airbox with another OEM quality filter. No need to send dirtier air into your free flowing engine.

Or maybe replace the airbox with a bigger one out of a big diesel truck.
 
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Now that the DT headers are extracting more air out of the engine, we need to find a way to get more air in at WOT. The attached link from Tundrasolutions is very interesting.

Stock Air Flow Numbers and Mod - Toyota Tundra Forums : Tundra Solutions Forum

This adds another air inlet into the airbox. Similiar to the deckplate mod.

Ideas and thoughts? Has anyone used the extra inlet mod vs the deckplate mod on a 100 series?

This will also require running an airhog or K&N type high flow air filter.

Aren't the Tundy numbers identical to bamachem's deckplate thing? I like that with his you can screw in the cover and seal it back up.
 
Just add a supercharger and stop farting around!
 
My deckplate mod. I used supplies from lowes.
IMG00353-20101016-0721.webp
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IMG00354-20101016-0721.webp
 
Picture of proposed shield to direct air to intake.
Picture of intake from the grill.
IMG00356-20101016-0913.webp
IMG00357-20101016-0913.webp
 
Guys..... don't make me do this! Stop posting pictures...

ok ok ok ok UZJ100, how does it sound? Feels? I know you have headers, but any improvement over that?
 
No test yet. Also, without headers I am not sure it would help anything. More air out and more air in should equal a little more power. The headers make a difference so I am hoping this helps as well.

I will also add an AFE drop in dry filter at some point.

The shield is to direct the air into the intake and keep the hot air away.

I want a snorkel as well but that is some years away.
 
I made this mod based on the fact that the guy on tundrasolutions actually did a vacuum test and the fact that I have aftermarket headers installed.

The modification seems to smooth out the throttle response just a bit more than headers alone. The LC doesn't seem to really strain anymore with the throttle and just flows and goes. Up hill on ramps are much easier now.
 
Andrew/uzj100

in your post #5 can you post me a pic of that where that component lives in the engine bay?

Now in this Oz forum here they modify the Oz airbox.
Unfortunately the individual posts are not numbered that i can see at 1am in the morning.
However, if you use Firefox hit the / key and paste in "Air flow upgrade" without the " quotes. If you use IE hit crtl-f same paste, Mac, command-f

That's what i'll be posting on here in terms of similar mod, but as theirs is a turbo deisel (the air box is the same size as my Oz V8 though), and you USA guys are V8s, my pics may interest you given my snorkel has been identified as the bottleneck when i had the beast dyno'd.

talk soon
cheers
peter
 
See pic for reinstalled airbox from 2000 UZJ100.
engine bay.webp
 
ok.
here's a few , but with the plastic engine cover still on.

There was a post on here about the MAF sensor being compromised courtesy of the K&N....well i checked post air box and it's clean. Nothing. But now summer is here, i''ve put back in the factory Toyota air filter.

You can see how much bigger the Toyota cleaner is v K&N.

Pics are pretty much self-explanatory.
Comment if you want more info.
I've checked out the airbox mod i mentioned above...it is definately a bottleneck for me.
Finally i have a project i can actually do.
pics follow
peter
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P1081619.webp
P1081621.webp
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and just a close up of where it joins the inner guard
P1081631.webp

and i DO have the restriction as per that 4wdaction thread link i post up earlier.
so the guys at the Horse Power Factory where i got my cruiser dynoed at 84.3kW and said it was the snorkel.......they were on the ball.

anyway, i';ve put back the factory filter now but hey....no dust or grime was on that intake from the K&N....so for me, the jury is out on that one.
I carry a spare anyway, so i am covered.
I'll let you know when i do the mod above.

Andrew/uzj100, your intake is [STRIKE]weird[/STRIKE] obviously the USA version, and sorry i couldnt help with that.
peter
P1081631.webp
 
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IIRC the biggest reason people don't like the K&N FIPK kit is due to the fact that the oil fouls the MAF sensor, right? Just go buy an AEM dry-flow filter of the same size and switch it for the oiled one, and sell the K&N filter to recoup some of the cost. Shouldn't be too hard to find an identical AEM replacement since they are owned by K&N now.

Just a thought.
 
yep thats what i've been told by an earlier post maybe on this thread or another...the MAF sensor issue that is.
To be honest, K&N V Factory....i thought i noticed a difference, but after experimenting....i think it's a "mind thing"....but hey i dunno...i've checked post air filter/cleaner using both...and theres no difference. The K&N is dirtier to handle and that's it....but....i'm back with OEM for the summer, as it, too, is cleanable.
cheers
peter

edit: now i have to look up where MAF sensor is and if it servicable by me or not.
 
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I am about to modify my air box quite a bit. Deckplate, removing the airbox resonator and all that extra junk, and a few intake tubes to direct air in. I am trying to find a string/air flow measurement method and stick my camera in there with a flash light and show the difference in airflow driving around. I have removed the resonator and the exhaust ends in the middle of the 100 now.
 
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