Air filters

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Lol found the culprit.

PXL_20230929_164206008~2.jpg


That'd be the clamp for the heater control in the air duct. Annoying thing is I checked it last year and it was holding ok...but I bet it wasn't going to full heat.


In my defense for not looking at the stupid first, I wanted a new thermostat anyways. I hadn't replaced it since that electrical ground issue and always wondered if the copper in it had gotten nuked.


Added bonus of the big dash panel I made. Access is way easier. 4 screws to get here.

PXL_20230929_164416829.jpg


Thinking about it, it'd be fun to convert to old school 40 series controls for all this...:hmm:

Curious to see what I get for heat after this. Maxed out at about 35c before.
 
seapotato said:
More like it. Actually had warm legs driving to work tonight. 😁


View attachment 3443448

I want to put that thermometer in my 40s vent now. That f***ing thing wants to melt my right shoe 🤣
Click to expand...
Sounds about right for your 40.

I’ve read some claims that the rear heater doesn’t get hot enough. Tell that to my sons boots that had lines melted into the sides of them. It wouldn’t surprise me if I could cook an 🥚 on it on long trips.
 
bikersmurf said:
Sounds about right for your 40.

I’ve read some claims that the rear heater doesn’t get hot enough. Tell that to my sons boots that had lines melted into the sides of them. It wouldn’t surprise me if I could cook an 🥚 on it on long trips.
Click to expand...
That's his 60.
 
Yeah rear heaters don't have the air ducting, so just full heat through a coil full of 90c water.

I deleted mine in the 60. Those lines under the truck are just asking for it.

In my 40 I deleted the rear seating area 🤣
 
seapotato said:
The other thing I wonder about is how this supply to the heater is right next to where the coolant enters the head. If I took it from the port at the back of the head it'd be hotter I'm sure...but this is the factory hose so you'd think it'd be fine.
Click to expand...
It will be hot enough. I removed my rear heater and it came from the stack at the back end of the block.
It definitely was hotter, but mine produces enough heat now even up North where it’s cold.

That little clip up above you found is the reason I gather all of everyone’s garbage bits. Thanks to your donation
of RHD stuff I got that for mine which had been broken since I got the truck. Worth it all for that little piece!

BTW, the biggest solution to my heater woes was the pulling and flushing of the heater core. With 60 & 70
heaters the core sits upright with the outlets both on top. Unlike the 40 cores which sit with the outlets at the bottom. Ever wonder why 40 heaters melt your socks off? If you get sediment build up in the 60 it’s really hard to flush it out. The 40 self cleans being inverted. The rear heater in the 74 is inverted and it heats the truck with the roof off! This is my hypothesis, anyways.
 
cruiserpilot said:
It will be hot enough. I removed my rear heater and it came from the stack at the back end of the block.
It definitely was hotter, but mine produces enough heat now even up North where it’s cold.

That little clip up above you found is the reason I gather all of everyone’s garbage bits. Thanks to your donation
of RHD stuff I got that for mine which had been broken since I got the truck. Worth it all for that little piece!

BTW, the biggest solution to my heater woes was the pulling and flushing of the heater core. With 60 & 70
heaters the core sits upright with the outlets both on top. Unlike the 40 cores which sit with the outlets at the bottom. Ever wonder why 40 heaters melt your socks off? If you get sediment build up in the 60 it’s really hard to flush it out. The 40 self cleans being inverted. The rear heater in the 74 is inverted and it heats the truck with the roof off! This is my hypothesis, anyways.
Click to expand...
Yeah those clips suck, and unless you rotate the jacket of the cable to make sure the teeth bite in they just slip again.

The 40 heater core looks pretty horizontal to me, with one port higher than the other, so I'd say it'll still get crap in it, and I think it's the lowest point in the system too, but I don't really agree that dirt buildup is the difference between them tho. Core in my 60 is clean, I had descaler sitting in it and flushed clear, so I think it's something in the design.


Could just be the btus in a smaller space with your feet so close to the heat, in a 60 it's way back inside that huge dash and goes through a crap load of ducting before it gets to you. Same deal for rear heaters. Like touching a candle vs it being across the room.

Also looks to be a differently designed coil, could just be a different end cap but I'm not sure it doesn't do some different heat transfer wizardry in there. Maybe MrT though a convertible needed a more efficient heater? Dunno.

Have to cut one in half to see, but that's far more than I care to do :lol:

imagejpg_1024x1024.jpg
 
Good news is ya got heat now when you need it. I’m in the middle of nightmare with the
13BT. Someone brilliantly thought to put the engine drain above the starter at the back of the
motor. I literally can’t get to it, unless I had hands the size of a 10 yr old. Not to mention it
won’t fill since Mr T decided to put the thermostat in the way of filling the system with that
stupid rad cap on the block idea.
You don’t have one of those coolant vacuum fill tools do you?
 
No I don't have one, but I did just read about a trick where you put an aspirin or some other pill that will dissolve in the tstat before installing.

Holds it open while you fill, disappears afterwards.

My bj70 had the cap on the block too but, I don't remember it being much of a thing to fill...3b's have that drain in the same spot I think. Not that I ever tried to use it. Was always sure it'd break off.
 
I filled it with the Prestone filler on the heater at the back. And some into the rad cap. What a PITA!
Anyhow, it's cooling and I'll top it up in a bit after dump run. Seems to be a bit hotter on the gauge but
could be just not full yet.
 
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