Air filters

[seapotato]

Cruiser Outfitters say this gasket is not necessary. What I find odd is why is this one on my engine then, and I'm wondering is this isn't
original equipment. I remember early days with the 12HT they came with the thermostat and I can't actually remember on mine.

I'll have a look and see if there's anything in that full gasket set I have. I don't remember there being one, just the flat but I could be wrong.
That tstat crosses over to pretty much all the cruiser diesels, I wonder if there's any newer applications the parts drones could look up easier...

 

[seapotato]

I'll have a look and see if there's anything in that full gasket set I have. I don't remember there being one, just the flat but I could be wrong.
That tstat crosses over to pretty much all the cruiser diesels, I wonder if there's any newer applications the parts drones could look up easier...

Doesn't appear to be included in the full 12ht gasket set, and it'd be in the bag with the housing gasket I'd think.
So, I'd say mr.t has also determined it's optional

 

[cruiserpilot]

Thanks for looking. I posted same in diesel section and came across an old thread from 2007. The o-ring is there, later
versions of which it's possible my engine might be. So I'll pull the housing off the other engine and look at its innerds.
Compare the inside lip of the housing. Either way, this one is going back in or a new one is.

Thermostat O-Ring For 3B/13bt

Does anyone know the part number or where to source the rubber o-ring that goes around the thermostat on a 13bt? Toyota does not list one in their system and you do not get a new one with a new thermostat. Without the o-ring the thermostat does not seat properly in the housing allowing coolant...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[seapotato]

Makes me wonder what brand the bumper to bumper guy looked up.

I have a fram in the 40, and I think the 60 is Baldwin but I don't remember. Pretty sure I got it from rock auto last time I was ordering something small.

Oil filter on the 3b is a Baldwin ph8a equivalent.

View attachment 3373805

Ordered Friday night, in my hand today. 6 Baldwin fuel filters and a couple air filters for a grand total of $114 CDN. Not bad.

Was curious what those luber finer filters were like at 10 bucks a pop. From what I've read most paper filters are the same and just rebranded anyways.

 

[cruiserpilot]

Nice. Does the air filter have a steel surround or is it rubber like the Baldwin? Why so many fuel filters?
Is the 3B oil filter same as 13BT which is NAPA 51515, if memory serves

 

[Rigpig]

Luber Finer are pretty common also for fleet applications. I did have a bad batch of oil filters once where the threads weren't cut properly, otherwise i've used them lots on cummins applications. Good to see that Baldwin number, i'll keep my eyes open for them.

 

[seapotato]

Nice. Does the air filter have a steel surround or is it rubber like the Baldwin? Why so many fuel filters?
Is the 3B oil filter same as 13BT which is NAPA 51515, if memory serves

Just because with shipping I wanted to stock up. I think it was 26 to ship, whether I got 2 or 6. I need two now, and it's nice to have a spare or two on the shelf.

Interestingly, the site said "Hastings/Baldwin" and pic showed the white Hastings filters.

They were only 9 bucks each, and Napa gouged me for 3 times that last time I bought one, so I figured I may as well.

Air filters are rubber ended, but I'd be curious to cut into that once they're done. It's really stiff, could be metal underneath or a hard plastic maybe.

3b oil filter is the ph8a equivalent, so possibly the most common filter on earth. I don't know if that's the same as 13bt...

 

[seapotato]

Cruiser Outfitters say this gasket is not necessary. What I find odd is why is this one on my engine then, and I'm wondering is this isn't
original equipment. I remember early days with the 12HT they came with the thermostat and I can't actually remember on mine.

So I did a bit of digging on my heat issue this morning,

Backstory, Cruiserpilot stopped by the other day and I put a temperature probe in his heater vent, and got 55c air. Did the same this morning on my truck driving to work, and I got a max of 35c, which sucks. I'm pretty sure I don't have that gasket...

Found this thread while searching and coffeeing and apparently that gasket made a huge difference to the guy's heat output.

very little heat - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/very-little-heat.338969/

I ran descaler through my heater core this summer, so I don't think it's blocked or dirty. Cold air could be bypassing, but adding that gasket sounds like the easiest thing to try first if I can find one...

 

[seapotato]

Well, I ordered what I *think* is the right gasket... and a new tstat. Guess we'll see what shows up

It'd make sense if it's allowing cooler water to get through somehow. Air blowing from the 40's core is uncomfortably hot, and the actual temperature of the coolant itself should be the same. It's the same tstat in each truck.

 

[cruisedeisel]

I think my heat is to par but I only drive in the summer with toe-kick AC. That's the BJ40 speaking...
Pretty hot in the the BJ60 in winter
As for El bandierante, let me solve el wiring.

 

[seapotato]

I think my heat is to par but I only drive in the summer with toe-kick AC. That's the BJ40 speaking...
Pretty hot in the the BJ60 in winter
As for El bandierante, let me solve el wiring.

Haha yeah, a 3b does do a good job of heating water

Thinking about my 61, the return from the rad is usually quite cool, (even after a highway run) so if it's that temperature water bypassing the thermostat and getting to my heater core, no wonder it sucks.

It's also entirely possible its just plumbed wrong. Think I'll pop the two hoods tomorrow and have a good stare at the plumbing.

The rear heater was always a bit warmer, and it took it's supply from that little stack at the back of the head so that checks out. I'd guess that'd be just about the hottest water in the system.

Probably won't see the new tstat or gasket until next week, so the question is if I'm patient enough to wait...or do I **** around making a gasket. I have a spare tstat somewhere, so I could probably drag it into a parts place to see if they have something

 

[seapotato]

Finally arrived .

I'm guessing they had to dig for the gaskets seeing as they've told everyone to chuck them for the last 20 years

Hopefully I'll get it installed on Friday. Curious to see if anything changes with my heat.

 

[cruiserpilot]

Finally arrived .

I'm guessing they had to dig for the gaskets seeing as they've told everyone to chuck them for the last 20 years

Hopefully I'll get it installed on Friday. Curious to see if anything changes with my heat.

View attachment 3441992
View attachment 3441993

Where did you source that from?

 

[seapotato]

Where did you source that from?

Toyota parts direct.

When you zoom in on the diagram with the tstat it's there. Water outlet housing gasket I think it's called.

Wasn't all that sure it'd be the right thing with that name, but picture looked right.

Part # is on the bag label.

 

[cruiserpilot]

Thanks, I’ve found it there. Of course shipping is twice the cost of the parts. I’ll look at
getting some oil / air filters to help offset price.
You on days off?

 

[seapotato]

Thanks, I’ve found it there. Of course shipping is twice the cost of the parts. I’ll look at
getting some oil / air filters to help offset price.
You on days off?

Not quite. Day shift today, then a couple nights before I have most of October off.
Boss was thrilled when I discovered I still had a couple weeks of holidays to use up before the end of the year

I do plan to get that tstat installed tomorrow morning tho. I read a post on mud where a guy had no heat, installed that gasket and instantly had lots.

Hoping that's the case here.

If I really wanted to be scientific about it, I'd put that gasket on the old tstat and reassemble to test so I'm only changing one thing at a time, but that sounds like too much work.

 

[cruiserpilot]

Once you're in there change 'em both. No sense messing around. I got heat once I thoroughly flushed the heater core
and got it flowing. But mine runs at exactly 195F all the time, it's religious. So when that leak happened up north it didn't
take long to know it was there. We pulled my rad at the top of a mining switchback road, literally couldn't go higher up
the mountain. Glad Jeremy had solder, phew!

 

[seapotato]

Once you're in there change 'em both. No sense messing around. I got heat once I thoroughly flushed the heater core
and got it flowing. But mine runs at exactly 195F all the time, it's religious. So when that leak happened up north it didn't
take long to know it was there. We pulled my rad at the top of a mining switchback road, literally couldn't go higher up
the mountain. Glad Jeremy had solder, phew!

Oh I intend to change both. I may test the old stat just to make up for changing 2 things at once tho.


My heater core is pretty clean. I've blasted a few fun chemicals through it.
I think the problem is it's seeing coolant returning from the rad, which is luke warm at best.

We'll see. I'll take some before and after temp #'s.

It'll be just like a normal day at work

 

[seapotato]

Well I don't see how the o-ring would make any difference, and I don't think I should even put it in.

The machined recess for the tstat is made for only the tstat. No way water could bypass in any meaningful amount.
So o-ring must only be for older versions?

O-ring makes it sit proud and stops it from aligning.

So, if you need one @cruiserpilot I have one

 

[seapotato]

This'll make Mel happy...

Straight into the dishwasher and we will never speak of this again.

Both 88c and both opened at the same time within a degree or two.

So, narrows it down anyways.

The other thing I wonder about is how this supply to the heater is right next to where the coolant enters the head. If I took it from the port at the back of the head it'd be hotter I'm sure...but this is the factory hose so you'd think it'd be fine.