Ahoy! New GX owner with a few questions. (1 Viewer)

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Sandy Utah area
New GX owner here with a few quick questions:

1. driveline shunt? whats normal? mine has 114k miles but seems to have been taken care of very well yet there is a shunt seems to be present when the brakes are release, if i get on and off the throttle quickly and occasionally when I raise the suspension. Its never been off road I can assure you of that based on the underside. My 80 series has gnarly shunt but I chalk that up to mileage (290k) and the regear to 4.56 as well as a trashed slip joint. Where should I start looking?

2. What are the fluids? I know the trans is that WS stuff, is the power steering still hydraulic like the 80 series or is it PS fluid? Brakes I assume are dot 3/4

3. Whats it take to coil convert it? what are the consequences? (permanent dash light? etc)

4. if I do coil convert it, has anyone used the air compressor for tires or lockers?


5. How awesome is that V8, right? right.
 
First thing - assuming it is a GX470 (not 460) check your dash - if it has any cracks at all, even a tiny one - or if it seems sticky, get it to a dealer right away to get a repair order in their system before 5/31. Warranty coverage was extended on these through May 2017, but you have to get the request documented through the dealer before the end of this month to qualify.

Maybe yours was already done, but good to check if there's any doubt or dash is the least bit sticky.

Only a week left to get on the list!
 
Yeah I've heard about that. I've been checking for cracks and stickiness and nothing. Still needs the airbags recalled though. and yeah its a 470 (figured I would save some time writing it out since Im in the 120 section)
 
1) Grease your driveshaft with marine grease every oil change and that should help eliminate the clunk from stopping and going. New oem driveshaft is an option as well.

2) The trans fluid needs to be changed every 90k or so miles. It's only designed for "life of the vehicle" as in how long one person typically owns the car.

3) Search it's been covered countless times. No side effects, no dash lights once you unplug or have the dealer unregister those fuses.

4) Air compressor is junk and heavy, remove and throw it away once you convert the rear. It's not powerful enough or reliable enough to use for anything else.
 
Also - I have it on the list for my GX470 to hook the factory air pump to a tank for onboard air. There's already a 50A circuit and relay under the hood.

Seems like it should be simple to wire in a dash switch to the pump relay with a pressure switch on the tank.

I haven't seen any posts from those who have done it -- although there must be someone from the LX or LC100 crowd who has done similar?

---edit---

I guess based on @Scat Adams reply, I'll borrow the wiring but plan on replacing the pump with something more reliable!
 
1) Grease your driveshaft with marine grease every oil change and that should help eliminate the clunk from stopping and going. New oem driveshaft is an option as well.

2) The trans fluid needs to be changed every 90k or so miles. It's only designed for "life of the vehicle" as in how long one person typically owns the car.

3) Search it's been covered countless times. No side effects, no dash lights once you unplug or have the dealer unregister those fuses.

4) Air compressor is junk and heavy, remove and throw it away once you convert the rear. It's not powerful enough or reliable enough to use for anything else.

Marine grease? Why not Moly EP moly? Is this one of those forum things like using high temp grease in the birfields vs moly if you run in wet environments things or is this actually recommended?
 
4) Air compressor is junk and heavy, remove and throw it away once you convert the rear. It's not powerful enough or reliable enough to use for anything else.

Do you have any actual numbers on the compressor as far as CFM / PSI ? I'm guessing the rear airbags are low pressure bags as in 90-120psi.
 
@hammerheadfistpunch that's just what I use but you seem well versed in the grease world so use what you feel is best. :)

@half k cruiser no I don't have any numbers but there are a few threads discussing it. But it's bound to fail, just a matter of when. Not worth wasting your time on imho.

Cheers!

Cool thanks, just didn't know if they had changed their recommendations. The Lexus manual is infuriatingly light on technical information. Something something Lexus owners I guess.
 
@half k cruiser no I don't have any numbers but there are a few threads discussing it. But it's bound to fail, just a matter of when. Not worth wasting your time on imho.

Cheers!

Well, everything on the vehicle is bound to fail at some point. I'm just curious why people would disregard it as a useless piece of equipment when we have no actual CFM or PSI numbers. Do we even know who the manufacturer of the unit is ? Does anyone have one off of the truck that can be tested ? The only things I have found reading through old threads is "its too small" and "it won't operate ARB air lockers".
 
Well, everything on the vehicle is bound to fail at some point. I'm just curious why people would disregard it as a useless piece of equipment when we have no actual CFM or PSI numbers. Do we even know who the manufacturer of the unit is ? Does anyone have one off of the truck that can be tested ? The only things I have found reading through old threads is "its too small" and "it won't operate ARB air lockers".

I would guess the biggest hurdle would be PSI, since volume isn't going to be an issue for a locker. ARB wants between 100 and 150 psi and I would bet this unit is set for lower pressures. Not saying it couldn't do it, but I wonder if there is already some pressure control on the compressor to prevent runaway inflation that you would have to defeat. Would be cool though since its there, tucked away nicely and obviously meant for outdoor use, if you could defeat the pressure control and make it fully manual or with a new external control logic that would be sweet.
 
We took mine out back like that printer in Office Space. Guaranteed good time.

They seem to fail around 150k miles give or take, sounds like a true gamble to keep it much less rely on it when in a pinch.
 
I put new driveshafts on mine, thunk free forever!
 

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